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I hope you guys haven't been thinking that I had abandoned this; I have just been first = miserable with a flu-like bug and then overwhelmed in catching up on all the other chores that I had let slide while I was feeling puny.
As soon as I get opportunity, I will do the next tests on our list...
With the C pin de-soldered and free of it's connection, no mike = 5.54v and mike keyed = 2.29v
Whether it makes any difference or not, the driver and final were still de-soldered during this test; should I have re-soldered them ?
Thanks.
Okay, the smaller "driver" does not appear to have the thin flat metal mount bracket and the screw passes through the thick portion instead (I hope my explanation is making sense); thus, I cannot tell for certain which pins are B, C, and E.
On the driver, is B closer to the outside wall of the...
I'm back --- sorry to have taken so long to get back with this, but I have been down with some sort of killer flu virus allergy infection sore-throat mess for the last several days and just couldn't summon the strength to think straight; although I am far from fully recuperated, I can sort of...
Switch OFF: HOT side = 12.76v COLD side = 0.02
Switch ON: Both sides = 12.46v
My desoldering wick/braid is on the way; as soon as it gets here, I will do the tests that require desoldering.
I hope it is okay to post a link.
I just ordered this same stuff from E-bay (Ebay cost a few cents more, but I didn't have to spend $25 and wait an extra week or so):
I looked at several brands and this stuff seemed to have the best recommendation from people who seemed to know what they...
See my notes above in red.
By "metal cans", I hope you were meaning the little square metal boxes that each have a hole in the top with a visible plastic screw-driver slot in the hole, not much bigger than a sugar cube.
B: no mike = 8.60 --- mike keyed = 8.59
C: no mike = 11.42 --- mike...
Okay........,
I could not find a TR23; however, I did find a W23 which looks like a bigger version of the two that are bolted onto that metal "wall" in the back corner.
With the radio upside-down, control knobs facing me, this W23 is located on the right-hand side, just ahead of the mounting...
Thanks so much for helping me.
I have just now went into the shop and checked the RX/TX light again, just to be absolutely certain about it; that GREEN light is definitely turning to RED when I key the mike; release the mike key and it returns to green.
As for the meter light dimming, what...
Okay, I used one of the working Cobra 19 radios connected to a 4-1/2-foot fiberglass Wilson Silverload antenna; the radios were side-by-side on the bench, maybe three inches between them; the antennas were about two foot apart.
I could not see any meter movement on the bad radio when keying the...
I will try to check this out sometime tomorrow and get back with my findings.
I like the instructions you provided as they are easy to follow and understand.
Thanks so much.
I am not in any particular hurry; I can wait a couple weeks for your publication.
Actually, I do have a pile of various disabled radios and also several working radios as well; I frequent classic car and truck swap meets and often will buy a whole big box that says "C.B.Stuff" for maybe five or...
If I seemed to have ignored nomad's advice in my last posting, it was not intentional; for whatever reason, this site does not show me all posts as they arrive; I don't know what is up with that.
I have to refresh the page several times to see a new post and then earlier posts may not appear...
Is the T1 a large (compared to everything else in there) approximately 1-1/2" square gizmo with a metal perimeter and what looks to be a wire-wound coil within, looking at the component side of the innards, with the face of the radio closest to me, this is on the right and beside the right-rear...
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