Recent content by UxCow

According to my calipers, 5/8" should be the proper size of hole to get the mount stem through.

None that I saw. I believe this radio was originally modified by Rolling Radios, as it had all the earmarks of it.

Tried it out in car, with it running, so getting the standard 14.5, and 14 under Xmit load. Bias was at 3.76 for driver/final. Still biased a bit hot, but should be OK. Output did, however, creep upward a bit. External meter is showing 18-20 watts on AM, and internal is showing 20-22 with...

Once upon a time I had a tube-based O-scope, and signal generator...but that was 15+ years ago. I'll try adjusting, although I currently have the driver and final biased according to instructions I've seen. I also found some other instructions, and decided to check this radio to see if it was...

After quite some time of not having the time, I finally managed to test this thing out using a salt-water dummy load. Thought it was doing better than it was at first, then realized I was tired and mis-read the meter. I'm wondering if my meter may be defective, as I can get no SWR reading...

I've dealt with mineral-oil submersed things before; resistors, transformers, and whole PC components. I'll probably get 1 or 2 Caddock resistors, as I have plenty of heatsink material, water blocks, and other cooling bits left over from building custom water-cooled PCs (using a dual pump...

Thanks, Mongoose. Just call me "Cannoli." :P I'll see about getting an So-239 female connector and pretty sure I have the rest of the stuff around. Of course, I probably have some high power bathtub resistors, but not sure if they'd hold that kind of power.

Alright, back to stock from all that I can see. Q54 and 55 were upgraded (already mentioned that). I also stuck a name brand IRF520N in Q49, vs. the generic IRF520. Q47 was replaced with an IRF530N (faster turn on and way more amperage capable). Now to build a dummy load and tweak this thing.

Thanks about L31. I tried lining it up correctly enough. The soldering - that is AFTER I tried cleaning it up. There is still a ton of flux left over. Mostly I used a solder sucker to remove the old cracked/flat solder. The ground straps were not bent down very well (IMO) but it's better than...

The person who gave the radioto me has a frequency counter, and ran over the signals for me. He mentioned they were actually accurate, and the radio sounded fine, despite the hackery going on. I wound up getting a watt meter in the big pile o' stuff, still new in box. Just a basic Workman, so...

By stock I mean more in the power section. I don't mind the blue lights, extra channels, or echo-board in it, but putting it back to single final may be the easier road. As for removing the rest of it, and putting it back to bog stock...that would be too much work. I have a few mics to use...

No, I didn't buy this radio; it was given to me..figured with nothing invested I could make it work well enough. Yes, I've ordered some ceramic insulation pads for each chip on the chassis, so that should resolve one issue. Other parts are on the way to replace/upgrade the current ones...

Wow, no replies...maybe wrong area. Does anyone even have a picture of the guts of a Super Sidekick? That alone would be helpful in finding out what resistor is needed.

That depends entirely on the vehicle. I drove a 2010 Mustang for about 6k miles in a few months with a Wilson 1000 mag-mount on the trunk lid, and ran the coax inside the car to a Midland handheld. No paint issues from the mag or coax. The top of the vehicle would be an entirely different...

There's already a heatsink for it, just needs proper mounting, or I have plenty of heatsinks from computers, or I can cut my own from stock sitting around. Heatsinks are one thing I can do :D