Hello guys i want to unlock the clarifier on my cobra 148gtl made in china has 4pin front mic, any help would be appreciated.
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Cobra 148 gtl china model
- Thread starter kaos513
- Start date
I need to know if the pc board has the legend "KEPC-332-G2" printed on the copper side of the pc board. Pretty sure you'll see it near the channel selector.
And if your radio is different, my file won't help. It hasn't been transferred from the "secure" (old) computer yet.
If your radio has that pcb, I'll do the file conversion and post it.
73
And if your radio is different, my file won't help. It hasn't been transferred from the "secure" (old) computer yet.
If your radio has that pcb, I'll do the file conversion and post it.
73
If you have a freq counter and know how to adjust the loop osc tuning cans; then you can do that mod. If not; forget about doing it yourself and send it to a shop where it can be done right. After doing the mod, it will not work correctly unless it is re-tuned. This is not a 'maybe'. you've been warned.
Having said that, one will need to locate D58 and clip one end. Before that, you will need to find the wire on the clarifier pot that gets +8v and de-solder it from the board and then solder the removed end to the +8v leg of the voltage regulator. Then realign the loop osc cans in AM, USB, and LSB. It's not hard to do, but without realigning the radio after the operation, it will be useless. Can't stress that enough.
http://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/cobra-148gtl-clarifier-help.164041/
Having said that, one will need to locate D58 and clip one end. Before that, you will need to find the wire on the clarifier pot that gets +8v and de-solder it from the board and then solder the removed end to the +8v leg of the voltage regulator. Then realign the loop osc cans in AM, USB, and LSB. It's not hard to do, but without realigning the radio after the operation, it will be useless. Can't stress that enough.
http://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/cobra-148gtl-clarifier-help.164041/
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maybe I lost some thing here but the newer 148 radios do not run 8 volts at the clarifier as the old ones did. I believe Nomad was thinking of that when he asked what board is in the radio.
one version has a resister to the pll and it does not take 8 volts to work properly. sounds like nomad is asking for what board it has. just wait until he gets the info needed.
I hate that cbtricks.com forum is down. it has all this info there lost as long as the forum is down.
I hate that cbtricks.com forum is down. it has all this info there lost as long as the forum is down.
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Petty sure that's close enough.
I'll transfer and post it.
Only way out of that computer now is to unplug the CF card that serves as the DOS "D" drive and read it into a real computer.
Maybe tonight.
73
I'll transfer and post it.
Only way out of that computer now is to unplug the CF card that serves as the DOS "D" drive and read it into a real computer.
Maybe tonight.
73
So here is what I found in my notes on the dinosaur computer.
Bear in mind I write these in a sort of semi-shorthand to speed up the same job next time it comes in the door. No pictures.
Hopefully it makes sense once you peer inside the radio.
Clarifier: Black wire at point "J11A" just to the rear of the 3-
pin clarifier-control header is the Rx-only feed to the front-
panel control. Pull the FAR end of the black wire from the hole
marked "J11" at the front corner of the main pcb behind the mike
socket, just outboard from VR3, the squelch threshold trimpot at
the front of the pc board just behind the S-meter. Pull one end
of D75, just to the rear of the Tx freq. trimpot VR5. Or just
pull VR5.
The loose end of the black wire lap-solders to the inboard end of
the ferrite bead between the 10.24 xtal and the PLL chip. Tight
quarters, but doable.
I'm fairly sure this one has been "proofread". That is, we've used it on more than one radio since it was written. When I have to figure out one of these for the first time, Murphy always seems to insert at least one small error. The second time we have to do that task, the error gets found while trying to follow the procedure in my file.
By the third radio, it's probably error free. How clear it will seem is another question.
Your mileage may vary.
Good luck and 73
Bear in mind I write these in a sort of semi-shorthand to speed up the same job next time it comes in the door. No pictures.
Hopefully it makes sense once you peer inside the radio.
Clarifier: Black wire at point "J11A" just to the rear of the 3-
pin clarifier-control header is the Rx-only feed to the front-
panel control. Pull the FAR end of the black wire from the hole
marked "J11" at the front corner of the main pcb behind the mike
socket, just outboard from VR3, the squelch threshold trimpot at
the front of the pc board just behind the S-meter. Pull one end
of D75, just to the rear of the Tx freq. trimpot VR5. Or just
pull VR5.
The loose end of the black wire lap-solders to the inboard end of
the ferrite bead between the 10.24 xtal and the PLL chip. Tight
quarters, but doable.
I'm fairly sure this one has been "proofread". That is, we've used it on more than one radio since it was written. When I have to figure out one of these for the first time, Murphy always seems to insert at least one small error. The second time we have to do that task, the error gets found while trying to follow the procedure in my file.
By the third radio, it's probably error free. How clear it will seem is another question.
Your mileage may vary.
Good luck and 73