Help making a list of essentials to take to a remote island for DX.

[BJ radionut]

Cliff: I agree with Wavrider there are many options you can use.(again it's always easy to spend someone's else's $$$)
I have enjoyed using Homebrew antennas for many years. There are almost unlimited options for any budget range.
My all time favorite for general use is the ALL BAND DOUBLET:
http://www.hamuniverse.com/hfdoublet.html

These work very well...Ladder line whether 450 ohm or 300 ohm is excellent feedline. This feedline is very forgiving and can handle good power rating and is very low loss even in very long runs (200-300ft in length).
This type of antenna does require the use of an outboard antenna coupler. (tuner)
There are many options available in this regard also. One can purchase a new built tuner. One can also build his own from many designs shown on the web.
When purchasing or building, I think most will agree a tuner should be oversize for your needs. Antenna tuners sold as built are rated at input PEP power rating, thus to say a 300 watt tuner, in reality is really only rated at 150w carrier level maximum. This is important to remember.
That being said a tuner rated for 500 watts is a much better choice even for the standard 100w radio. Why?
The 100w carrier(CW) rated radio can easily produce up to 140w PEP output in short pulses in SSB operation.

http://vk5ajl.com/projects/tuner.php

This link has some excellent information in regards to home brewing your own and some reasons why I say what I do about overbuilding or oversizing your antenna tuner. The voltages that can be generated in the tuner circuit will surprise you(even with just 100w of carrier.)
I have 2 normally used tuners in my shack. I am allowed to operate at 1500w PEP. The first tuner is a "Double L"(google this) it was built from a manufactured tuner(Dentron MT-2000A) with components rated for 2000w+.
I purchased this at a Hamfest(swap/Fleamarket for Hams) at less than half the original cost due to a coax function switch failure by another ham. Then made the repairs and conversion myself.
Really it was simple! (like me!)
My second tuner is rated a 4KW and made by PALSTAR (AT4K model)...overkill possibly!
I however can use either at my full legal output and have never had a failure in the primary components.

I use either of these with various wire Homebrew antennas I have built and presently using.
This is one of my other Favorite old designs:
http://www.bvarc.org/Tech/CompactW8JKBeam-K5LJ.pdf

I have used a variation of this design for many years on the 80 thru 20 meter bands...Though it is not steerable...However it does work very well and serves me well. The above design (link shown) is very effective, low cost to assemble and build antenna for the 20m to 6m bands.
See also "LAZY H" antenna
Well I am windy as per normal
All the Best
Gary/W9FNB

 

[sp5it]

Why you guys suggest him such a garbage antennas especially for his location?
@OP: forget antenna tuner. Always use resonant, tuned antennas. You need to radiate max power, not to warm up AT insiders.
Antenna system is a key to be heard.
Look at Spiderbeam, VDA antenna for a start.
Mike

 

[Robb]

Why you guys suggest him such a garbage antennas especially for his location?
@OP: forget antenna tuner. Always use resonant, tuned antennas. You need to radiate max power, not to warm up AT insiders.
Antenna system is a key to be heard.
Look at Spiderbeam, VDA antenna for a start.
Mike

Ummm . . . cost?
While admittedly better; it is more expensive to set up a beam.
Wire is still much cheaper to do . . .

 

[darkfibre]

Thanks for the comments, many things I seem to be looking for and researching.

To further clear up (or cloud up as may be) the picture, I have not just passed my license to spend lots of $$$ and then sit down and make the most amount of contacts possible.

I do take a hands on DIY and learn policy and are interested in home brew if possible, and I understand that this may not get immediate perfect results.
For instance last year I constructed a metal detector and with experiments wound a coil with the correct inductance for good operation. Project time is currently more than the useage time.

So this is about the journey, not just the destination. It is also possible that my time on the island will end in 2 years, so no big tower.

 

[binrat]

One thought maybe a vertical antenna. I have had really good success with 1/4 wave verticals in the last few years, most running QRP.

 

[darkfibre]

I am now the proud owner of a Yaesu FTDX 1200 - although it will be months before it arrives on the island.
I am also told licenses take over 4 weeks to be processed.


Dammit, I want to play with my toys now.

 

[Robb]

I am now the proud owner of a Yaesu FTDX 1200 - although it will be months before it arrives on the island.
I am also told licenses take over 4 weeks to be processed.


Dammit, I want to play with my toys now.

Not to worry; you might want to brush up on a few things and also have an antenna plan ready.

 

[darkfibre]

OK update,
I now own a FTDX1200 and it has a buffered IF tap the the previous owner had an sdr set up on as a wide band receiver. Power supply sorted.

Ordered a chinese Sark100 analyser - will this serve as a SWR meter, or do I need a dedicated unit.
Researching getting some aluminium tube sent to the island for construction (sections that will telescope).
Winding wire and some variable capacitors on their way, as well as a range of caps to play with.

 

[222DBFL]

You're radio should have a pretty decent VSWR meter. If you have the analyzer and you notice the power being cut back on the radio, you most likely have a VSWR issue. I trust my internal meter on my Icom 746, but I also check it occasionally with my analyzer to make sure it's all right still. Many may disagree with me, but once you get to know your station, you know when something isn't right! That is just my experience.
That being said, if you are just starting out, I would suggest that you get one to get to know your radio and how accurate the internal meter is versus an external one. And get a decent one. Diawa makes some decent ones. Stay away from the MFJ ones. I'll say that much.
So short answer, YES, Get one. Like I said, Diawa makes some good meters and won't break your bank. If you want a really nice one and don't mind spending some cash, look at the LP-100A by Vector.
Good Luck and hope you get all setup and also have fun as that is what it's all about!!

 

[vkrules]

Congrats on the licence and welcome to the ranks.I'm looking forward to working you on air, just checked my log and I see I don't have any confirmed contacts with Christmas Is.
Here's where you are lucky, Christmas Is is a much sort after DX country, you put up a signal and operators will pull out the stops to work you .

Id say 15m 20m and 40m are your best bet. 10m is dead and will be for some time .80m is really only good for about 1000km and I dont know if thats going to help you or not.

Looks like this will be your first attempt at building an antenna. My advise is to keep it simple to start with( you can always upgrade as you go along) Try a 20m dipole mounted off that deck on one end and tie the other end off some high point across the yard . The important thing is to get on air and make some contacts! dont over think it.

Ok I guess commercial towers and larger antennas are out of the question due to your time restraints and prohibitive shipping costs.

Check out whats on the island, be resourceful,building supplies, conduits ,copper wire, electric fence supplies ,fencing material, fishing rods boating winches, masts etc can all be vary useful
Does bamboo grow on the Island ,great for ant and masts. i have worked a few stations on Pacific Islands who use bamboo Quads.
Dont worry about 1kw rated ATUs and dummy loads ,VKs aren't allowed that much power.

When you confirm you have your call let us all know .

Also set up a page on QRZ.COM for logging etc EQSL.CC is another good site for instant qsl. and saves a fortune in post

Feel free to PM anytime if I can help with any thing. Regards Mark de VK4AAP VKRULES

 

[N0NB]

An 80m dipole at 20 ft above ground will have a nearly vertical polarization (more vertical than horizontal), making it a poor bet. Same antenna a 65 ft high still isn't much better, but improves. At 120 ft high off of the ground, it is fairly efficient and has acceptable polarization (more horizontal than vertical). Might want to read up on this again.

The bold text is incorrect. Assuming that the dipole is horizontal, it is the pattern that is more vertical, not the polarization. The polarization is always parallel to the plane of the elements of the dipole but the pattern can be distorted by other objects in the near field (the basis of a Yagi antenna).

For those of us in populated areas a low dipole, in terms of wavelength, is beneficial for working close-in stations on the lower bands where we depend on the radiated energy going nearly straight up and coming back down within a few hundred km of our location. This is not desirable for working over long distances. For that kind of work a horizontally polarized antenna should be a half wavelength or higher above ground. Alternately, a vertical antenna becomes a good choice as it offers a lower angle of radiation than a low dipole.

 

[Robb]

The bold text is incorrect. Assuming that the dipole is horizontal, it is the pattern that is more vertical, not the polarization. The polarization is always parallel to the plane of the elements of the dipole but the pattern can be distorted by other objects in the near field (the basis of a Yagi antenna).

For those of us in populated areas a low dipole, in terms of wavelength, is beneficial for working close-in stations on the lower bands where we depend on the radiated energy going nearly straight up and coming back down within a few hundred km of our location. This is not desirable for working over long distances. For that kind of work a horizontally polarized antenna should be a half wavelength or higher above ground. Alternately, a vertical antenna becomes a good choice as it offers a lower angle of radiation than a low dipole.

You're right I guess. Should've used the word 'lobe' as you made clear.

Still sucks - tho.

This guy is on a remote Pacific island; so he is trying not to suck at DX - remember?

 

[N0NB]

This guy is on a remote Pacific island; so he is trying not to suck at DX - remember?

Agreed. For his situation it would probably be better to use a multi-band vertical. Later on a pair of phased verticals would provide some directivity, but that comes at a cost as they're not practical for multi-band use requiring changes to the physical spacing between the verticals for different bands, as I understand it.

An elevated vertical on his rooftop with radials would likely out perform a low dipole. While they're ridiculously expensive, the Stepp-IR vertical may be the most aesthetically pleasing.

 

[darkfibre]

This guy is on a remote Pacific island; so he is trying not to suck at DX - remember?

Indian Ocean

 

[darkfibre]

List with updates

16/01/2017.

Already on Island;
Hand Tools
Soldering Iron/Gun
Solder/tape/heatshrink
Mutlitmeter
Scope


Ordered / In Transit;
Transceiver - Yaesu FTDX 1200 (IF tap and buffer fitted)
Power Supply
External SWR/Power Meter - Daiwa CN-801V
PL-259/SO-239 HF connectors + misc adaptors
Dummy load
Antenna Coupler (manual) - Second hand
Antenna Analyzer - Sark 100 chinese/ebay
G5RV antenna - Ebay
1mm enamelled copper wire

To get/decide on;
Coax - RG58 is cheaper - good enough?
Ladder line 300 or 450?
Wire (10/12/14/18ga)
Wire Terminals/Wire Nuts
Ground Rod(s) and connectors
1:1/4:1/9:1 Balun(s) or parts - making a parts to buy list
Pulleys (antenna)
Rope (antenna)
Masts and Guys (?)
Currently organizing drawn aluminium tubing that can be telescoped - 3m lengths.