Lincoln HR2510 - defective

[DL1GKD]

Dear members,
after more than a decade mothballed, the reactivation of my former properly runnig Lincoln failed. There is no frequency readout and no answer to the PTT-Switch. Without measurement-equipment, my first guess is a problem around the CPU/PLL-Board. HF/IF-Stage seems ok due to slightly increased noise when connecting an antenna. This problem seems not to be unique. Other users also have reported trouble after longer periods of QRT.
I disconnected and reconnected all plugs to the PLL/CPU-Board with no effect.
Any suggestions?
mni tnx in advance,
Dirk.

 

[Quiksilver]

Hopefully, Rogerbird will chime in...... He's the 2510 Guru!

 

[sp5it]

Check voltage regulators on CPU board, remove old, brown glue. It is very common problem.
Mike

 

[AudioShockwav]

Check voltage regulators on CPU board, remove old, brown glue. It is very common problem.
Mike

I second this post.
The Glue used to hold the Voltage Reg`s down to the board has been known to dry out and become conductive, and well as cause damage to the very fine traces below.....Very carefully "pop" the regs loose from the CPU board, and (again carefully) remove the excess from the board. I have seen several dead radio`s start working fine after freeing the regs from the glue.
This is a common problem as these radio become older.

73
Jeff

 

[DL1GKD]

Thanks to you all!

Hello OM´s,
I´m deeply greatful for your support and hints! Thanks a lot, I will come back and give you a feedback about the result of the surgery .
Hopefully I´m back on 10m soon.
73´s es gn,
Dirk.

 

[mechanic]

Try to power it up on battery, 12 volt DC and let it sit on for a bit then try turning on and off a few times.
The glue can be a problem and aging capacitors are right next to be the problem. These radios are getting older all the time and the caps are not improving. They degrade and especially after use and then a period of down time, the tend to not "activate". Some what like leaving batteries in a unit too long, they will do "bad" things like short and leak! :sad:
In the long run you may consider replacing all electrolytic capacitors and remove all glue.

On my 2510 the S/RF meter was flakey and not doing anything proper, sometimes pegging! Replacing the three caps on this board cured the fault! I will replace more soon!

See attached JPEG for an example of the "glue" problem.....

This is from a 2510 I bought used from a fellow on the net about five years ago. No transmit and I traced the problem to this "glue" that broke down and became corrosive along with the current of the B+ rail to the finals. This lead to the trace opening up with corrosion and heat from the resistance! When it comes right down to it, there is not much copper in a PC trace!



73 mechanic

 

[DL1GKD]

aged 2510

Hi mechanic,
tnx for your detailed report and hints. The Photo is really impressive too. After all, it seems, that this generation of radios has much more problems with symptoms of old age than the really old ones. I also own an old FT-200, a true museum of tubes but it still works! Also an old FM-Radio of the 50´s is still running.
Thanks also for adressing the cap-problem. I will take a look upon them also. Meanwhile, thanks to you all, I found the first faulty element. It´s the 5V-Voltage regulator. It´s clear, that without this, there´s no CPU-operation. I just ordered a replacement part and will give you a final feedback soon.

Altogether I want to say that this is an extremely helpful and friendly forum. Nice to see, that HAM-spirit is still alive !

73, Dirk.

 

[Rogerbird1]

Nothing to add

I have nothing to add..
You guys have him on the right track.
Bad Glue and bad caps.
Faulty Regulators. Two 8v and one 5v.
[Note the 5v regulator uses an isolated ground, so measure input and output with the negative lead on the metal tab.]

Check for damaged circuit traces from the glue,
Also check the glue around the little blue crystal oscillator next to the Microprocessor.
I have seen the glue chew right through the leg of the oscillator. Clean it off and brush with alcohol and make sure its still connected.

The caps on the display board can cause no display,
the caps around the audio IC can cause no audio (Rx or Tx) - C95 and C97
C60 and C75 can cause no TX.

Also check the Glue holding down the Torroid coils in the transmit circuit.
It can eat thru the enamel and short the windings, causing tx problems.

A 2510 main board layout, very similar to the Lincoln. It will help find the part locations..
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/uniden/hr_2510/graphics/hr2510_pb111ab_main_pcb.gif


{ I guess I did have something to add...}

Roger

 

[DL1GKD]

Tnx for nothing

Hi Roger,
thank you for really ´nothing´ .
Meanwhile, I replaced the 5V-reg and found that the problem of just 0,85V out of the reg was not the reg but two defective 220u / 1000u caps causing a near-short circuit. I replaced the caps also. Now the CPU is fed with 5V again but still nothing has changed. Now I go on and check the things you said.
Give you another feedback afterwards!
73, Dirk.

 

[smokie4]

Sounds like good advice on the glue removal.
Is there a fairly safe method, or any methods anyone is using for the glue removal?
Thanks

I have nothing to add..
You guys have him on the right track.
Bad Glue and bad caps.
Faulty Regulators. Two 8v and one 5v.
[Note the 5v regulator uses an isolated ground, so measure input and output with the negative lead on the metal tab.]

Check for damaged circuit traces from the glue,
Also check the glue around the little blue crystal oscillator next to the Microprocessor.
I have seen the glue chew right through the leg of the oscillator. Clean it off and brush with alcohol and make sure its still connected.

The caps on the display board can cause no display,
the caps around the audio IC can cause no audio (Rx or Tx) - C95 and C97
C60 and C75 can cause no TX.

Also check the Glue holding down the Torroid coils in the transmit circuit.
It can eat thru the enamel and short the windings, causing tx problems.

A 2510 main board layout, very similar to the Lincoln. It will help find the part locations..
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/uniden/hr_2510/graphics/hr2510_pb111ab_main_pcb.gif


{ I guess I did have something to add...}

Roger

 

[357]

Try to power it up on battery, 12 volt DC and let it sit on for a bit then try turning on and off a few times.
The glue can be a problem and aging capacitors are right next to be the problem. These radios are getting older all the time and the caps are not improving. They degrade and especially after use and then a period of down time, the tend to not "activate". Some what like leaving batteries in a unit too long, they will do "bad" things like short and leak! :sad:
In the long run you may consider replacing all electrolytic capacitors and remove all glue.

On my 2510 the S/RF meter was flakey and not doing anything proper, sometimes pegging! Replacing the three caps on this board cured the fault! I will replace more soon!

See attached JPEG for an example of the "glue" problem.....

This is from a 2510 I bought used from a fellow on the net about five years ago. No transmit and I traced the problem to this "glue" that broke down and became corrosive along with the current of the B+ rail to the finals. This lead to the trace opening up with corrosion and heat from the resistance! When it comes right down to it, there is not much copper in a PC trace!



73 mechanic

What is that brown wire and transistor for?
My glue is still white..

 

[BandidoP.R.]

Any glue removal method?

 

[CDX8412]

Mike’s Radio Repair on YouTube has done a couple of videos on this subject. Here are two

 

[Chevboy0167]

I have what Mike has. GC Electronics Radio-TV Service Solvent. Works great on the glue and other stuff like flux removal. NOT CHEAP! It cost me dang near $48 for a 16oz glass bottle. But a little goes a long way so should never need to but it again I hope!

I too have a dead display 2510 here that I am in process of re-capping and new upgraded regulators. Stock regs are rated 500Ma and I am replacing with 1 amp Motorola with heatsinks. That is the reason they glue them down to the CPU board to dissipate heat and prevent vibration cracking the solder joints.

Now, you can re-glue them to the board if the traces are still coated with the green conformal coating after cleaning the brown glue of death! A thermal adhesive like HY910 works perfect. is cheap and will not eat stuff up. I use it for many applications on radios.

Keep us posted and good luck!

 

[Niechko]

[QUOTE = "DL1GKD, post: 206187, membre: 13520"] Tnx pour rien

Salut Roger,
merci pour vraiment "rien" .
Pendant ce temps, j'ai remplacé le 5V-reg et j'ai constaté que le problème de seulement 0,85V hors du reg n'était pas le reg mais deux capuchons 220u / 1000u défectueux provoquant un court-circuit presque. J'ai également replacé les bouchons. Maintenant, le CPU est à nouveau alimenté en 5V, mais rien n'a changé. Maintenant, je continue et vérifie les choses que vous avez dites.
Donnez-vous un autre retour après!
73, Dirk. [/ QUOTE]

Hello, what are the plug numbers you replaced please?