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MOBIL 1 ANNUAL PROTECTION MOTOR OIL
- Thread starter Sonar
- Start date
just sales hype.
All M1 oils recommend an annual change, It's the mileage that determines the the OCI.
Regular M1 at 10K or one year,which ever comes first.
EP at 15K or one year, which ever comes first.
$49 a jug (walmart price). I'll continue with Extended Performance at $28 a jug and do just as well.
I've been changing my oil every since I bought my first vihicle at 3000 miles. I might let it slip to 3500 but that's it. It's something my grandfather and father did so I do the same. It might be unnecessary but God forbid anyone needs or would ever need a fully equipped wheelchair driver van. My first van cost me $45000 and that was in 85. I'm on my third van since my disability and am ready for a new one. Each one has avraraged 10 years. I'm going to be getting a new 18 model. Dropped floor, hand controls, auto opening doors, raised door entrance, low effort steering, ex lock chair lock down, remote control ECT ECT. That's even before the price of the van. Add an 18 e250 and I'm at 80 large. In all honesty I've never had any serious engine issues besides a sparkplug, coil tune up under the hood. I usually bring my vihicle to one of two quick lube oil change places but never use their 50 gallon drum oil. I go inside and purchase a large 6 quart and two extra quart's. I also buy a fram oil filter and air filter if needed. I don't trust the oil those places use. IMO they use recycled oil and oil is the lifeline of one's engine. I do the same for any fluids that need changing. My friends think I'm crazy for bringing my vihicle to the dealership for maintenance, brake pads, tune up etc etc. I don't think I've ever had a local Goodyear, or local garage repair something without something else happening a day later. Then you hear the same story, we fixed your issue this is something else that happened. Really a day or two after having an issue repaired a new one popped up. I learned my lesson after my first van. That stuff never happens at the dealership at least Ford. If there is an issue I bring it in and it's done. And it's done right the first time. Sure there's there's a premium for bringing your vehicle into the dealership but in my opinion it's worth every penny. To get back to the subject of the oil change. I didn't know that oil filters were built to actually fillter 10 thousand miles of oil. I will read the Box on my fram oil filter next time I go in for an oil change. Maybe I'm just stuck in the past and I am a creature of habit. Truthfully. I don't think I'll ever stop changing my vihicles oil at 3000. And I never used that synthetic stuff. Maybe I'm just too old to realize there might be a benefit. When they stop selling traditional oil then I'll have no choice to go synthetic. Thanks for your information. I'm obviously a stubborn person. Wait until you get old you too will understand. I was once young and open to ideas but I'm old and crusty. God I never thought I'd be old. It really sux. 73
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I use Mobil 1 EP and change my oil every 5000 miles or 6 months whatever comes first.
Mobil 1 EP oil will pass an oil analysis test with flying colors after 10,000 miles.
It's silly to change oil every 3000 miles nowadays since ALL conventional oils look excellent on an oil analysis test even after 7500 miles.....
My neighbor works for a lab which performs oil analysis tests.
Annual protection Mobil 1 is just another way for oil Mobil to soak people who don't know any better.
Don't use Fram oil filters if you care about your valve train.
Mobil 1 EP oil will pass an oil analysis test with flying colors after 10,000 miles.
It's silly to change oil every 3000 miles nowadays since ALL conventional oils look excellent on an oil analysis test even after 7500 miles.....
My neighbor works for a lab which performs oil analysis tests.
Annual protection Mobil 1 is just another way for oil Mobil to soak people who don't know any better.
Don't use Fram oil filters if you care about your valve train.
It's the way of the future. I bought a lawn mower last year and they claim you never need to change the oil. Just check it and add if necessary.
Im still going to change the oil but a lot of people never did it anyway so why not use it as a marketing strategy.
Cheap oil filters causing valve train failure....wow. All that poorly filtered oil slides right past the rod and main bearings to attack the valve train. Someone's mechanic blew smoke up their exhaust pipe.
Im still going to change the oil but a lot of people never did it anyway so why not use it as a marketing strategy.
Cheap oil filters causing valve train failure....wow. All that poorly filtered oil slides right past the rod and main bearings to attack the valve train. Someone's mechanic blew smoke up their exhaust pipe.
I've been using fram for year and like I mentioned 3500 will be the maximum amount of miles I will allow my vihicle to go without a change. I usually begin looking for my next van when the odometer hits somewhere around 150000. In Al three of my Vans I've never had a engine failure or major malfunction. Maybe I'm a creature of habit but I do equate the oil changing at 3000 to 3500 mile change with the fact that I've never had a serious engine problem. Maybe it's just luck but why change something that seems like it's been working? Thanks for the input. 73
I don't actually bring my vihicle to a mechanic for oil changes. I normally go to those quick lube joints. I go to their shopping area and purchase my own oil and filter. Fram has never let me down. You could be correct about the quality of fram and I will do some online research. Don't forget, I change my oil religiously before 3500. It might not be a good idea to use a Fram filter if you change your oil at 10000 miles but that's not the situation in my case. I will do some research anywhere. If there's a better filter I will definitely be in to purchase it. Thanks 73
Todays vehicles do not need the oil changed that often. Even most warranties now call for oil replacement every 5000 miles or 8000 Kilometers. Some vehicles using synthetic oils dictate every 16000 Km or 10000 miles. My uncle NEVER changed the oil in his old Buick and just kept adding it when it got low. I think the oil only got changed in that car two or three times in the 150000 miles he put on it. The key to long engine life is clean oil and the proper level as well as proper operating temperature. Oil itself simply gets dirty long before it breaks down enough to cause problems unless used in extreme duty applications.
There was an issue with cheap filters and the ISB cummins. I don't think they ever came out and said which manufacturer caused the most problems. Filter media was breaking apart and clogging piston coolers.
If you keep adding oil as it gets burned off, gradually the oil gets cleaner. LOL
I also have a 2013 Mustang GT and Advance auto parts had a special where you get 5 qts of Valvoline synthetic and a Fram filter for under $30. The anti drainback valve leaked and cold startups were noisy due to the oil drainback. Started using an OEM motorcraft filter and no more cold start noise.
I use only Motorcraft, Purolator, Mobil 1, or Wix filters only.....never any noises.
Fram filters are also known to cause problems in the 5.4 that ford used in the pickups and vans for a while, they had an effect on oil pressure that would screw up the workings of the VVT stuff. These problems are in no way related to how old the oil and/or filter is.
And before anyone calls it a Ford problem I've heard of similar problems from pretty much all other makes with VVT, experience with 1960's era technology engines has limited carry over to the stuff they're building today.
PS: VVT = Variable Valve Timing.
And before anyone calls it a Ford problem I've heard of similar problems from pretty much all other makes with VVT, experience with 1960's era technology engines has limited carry over to the stuff they're building today.
PS: VVT = Variable Valve Timing.
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If I had a vehicle that I never drove then I would use the Annual Oil. If I drove it I would change the oil every 10,000 miles and change the filter every 5,000 miles. Right now I change my oil and filter every 3500 miles.
Here's my prospective. If the anti drain back valve isn't working you may hear the valve train clatter but think of what you aren't hearing. In all engines I have dealt with the mains and rods get lubrication first. I would be more concerned with the bearings in the lower end wearing out prematurely that a little valve train rattle.
Back when I went to a lube place for oil changes I would bring my own filter. They used some mystery brand with a Quaker State logo on it. This is when I lived in a rural area and older guys were working at the jiffy lube. Now that I live in the city where young kids and tech school rejects work at jiffy lube I just do it myself. The first and last time I used a jiffy lube in my current town they overfilled it by a quart because they didn't have my oil on the reel and didn't want to have a partial jug laying around.
I dated a girl that drove a pos hyundai. The first thing I noticed about her car was valve train clatter. Turns out there was a tsb about non oem oil filters causing it. She started buying OEM filters and it went away. The aftermarket filter did not allow enough flow.
Back when I went to a lube place for oil changes I would bring my own filter. They used some mystery brand with a Quaker State logo on it. This is when I lived in a rural area and older guys were working at the jiffy lube. Now that I live in the city where young kids and tech school rejects work at jiffy lube I just do it myself. The first and last time I used a jiffy lube in my current town they overfilled it by a quart because they didn't have my oil on the reel and didn't want to have a partial jug laying around.
I dated a girl that drove a pos hyundai. The first thing I noticed about her car was valve train clatter. Turns out there was a tsb about non oem oil filters causing it. She started buying OEM filters and it went away. The aftermarket filter did not allow enough flow.
The bearings in the lower end aren't as picky about exact pressures as the new valve train stuff can be, if you have enough pressure you're good. With most VVT systems everything is hydraulic and it works off of oil pressure. And it is tuned so that the wrong amount of pressure, either low or high, can cause problems. It is quite possible for the pressure to be perfectly fine for the lower end while being out of spec for the valve train and if it ain't right actual damage can be done. Things really are different with some of these new engines.