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Putting up a Beam - Hardware Parts

Robb

Honorary Member Silent Key
Dec 18, 2008
11,432
3,651
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Silicon Valley CA, Storm Lake IA
To put a 2 meter beam is much simpler than an 11 meter beam. Moleculo has got it easier than me! The 11 meter beams are heavier, larger, offer more wind resistance, and has a larger turning radius. They also require to be put up much higher than the 2 meter beam does to be as effective.

I'm still getting parts and making final choices to finish the beam project and then write the review. I just finished restoring a 40 ft push-up pole and need to get 200 ft of guy wire as well as some lag screws to attach the push-up pole and start the installation. I'm going to HRO to pick up the coax and connectors next. A trip to the hardware store will provide the guy wire, lag screws, and washers...

Since I live on the coast of California; wind and snow aren't factors for putting the Gizmotchy 4 element beam up. In a harsher enviorment, I'm sure a more expensive heavy-duty rotor would be required. Keeping it functional without breaking the bank is the goal. I am concerned about having to spend $300 for the Yaesu G-450 rotor, as this would make putting a beam up an expensive venture. That Yaesu price does't include the bearing support. A bearing support at HRO is around $70 more! I am trying to keep the budget as low as possible and still make it all work together reasonably well. If I can get away with spending less than $100 for the rotor and the support bearing, I will feel grateful for not having to buy the Yaesu unit.

After the beam itself is assembled, I will find its center/horizontal 'balance point' and use that as the point to secure it to the mast.
As well as using a level to ensure that the push-up pole is as perpendicular to the ground as possible. This installation will probably need three guy wires at two different heights along the mast. Keeping it stable when the push-up pole is completely exended to its full height is a sound safety practice that will be used on this project.

I have several factors that I need to address before I can get this "fish bone lookin' twelve foot horizontal aluminum chick magnet" up (lol!).
One question I still have - is the possible use of a 10 ft fiberglass mast section - in order not to affect the beam performance itself.

Will using a metal mast attached to the beam affect its performance?
Or would using a fiberglass mast instead of steel be the correct choice?
Where can I purchase this fiberglass mast?

I am looking at getting the strongest rotor used for the largest TV antennas, Large TV antennas are equivalent in weight and size to the Gizmotchy beam. This will make this installation affordable. There is another part that I discovered that would be most helpful to keep this rotor lasting longer - a support bearing. I am considering using this support bearing - a foot or two above the rotor itself - in order to keep the horizontal wind stress off of the rotor itself.
Stark Electronics has all of the gear to put it together - here is that link:

Channel Master Rotors 9521A and NTE U-106 or U-105 TV antenna rotor TB-105 Support Bearing Used to turn your TV, HDTV or other communication antenna toward the strongest signal

Pictured below: bearing support and rotor installation diagram, bearing support, and the rotor itself
 

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Robb, in my experience something to noted with this style of rotor.

I can't be sure about the Channel Master brand, but with other similar rotors, I have never seen one that was truly concentric. Some where not even close. I also recall we found that some mast pipe diameters improved or made the rotation worse. I'm talking about irregular, off center rotation, up to and inch and more out-of-round. This happened with all installations using such setups like you described. This caused the antenna to seriously wobble around as it rotated and in some cases the rotor even hung up due to friction and binding when a bearing was used.

IMO, if you have a near maximum load on this style of rotor you really need to check this issue out by looking down at the top or the rotor as it rotates with some mast pipe installed.

Only if you insulate the antenna and compare the antenna with and without---will you really know if insulating works or not in your setup. IMO, it is not worth the cost and trouble, plus 10' feet is way too long just to insulate when a foot or two is all that is necessary. Then you will also loose some lightning protection that plumbers delight construction can provide.
 
So, the diameter of the pipe is going to be a factor in the concentricity of the rotor turning?
OK; I'll call them up and put them on the spot - and see what they say about that.

What about the fiberglass mast?
Not necessary?
Should I isolate the beam from the mast?
Not necessary?
 
So, the diameter of the pipe is going to be a factor in the concentricity of the rotor turning?
OK; I'll call them up and put them on the spot - and see what they say about that.

What about the fiberglass mast?
Not necessary?
Should I isolate the beam from the mast?
Not necessary?

I attempted to answerd this too.

Only if you insulate the antenna and compare the antenna with and without---will you really know if insulating works or not in your setup. IMO, it is not worth the cost and trouble, plus 10' feet is way too long just to insulate when a foot or two is all that is necessary. Then you will also loose some lightning protection that plumbers delight construction can provide.
 
The price of the rotor, support bearing and 75 ft of 3 conductor rotor cable - with shipping - from Stark Electronics is $131.

I will call them tomorrow and ask about the concentricity problem before I buy. This rotor has steel gears in it.

I talked with Tom Charles of Gizmothcy/Maco antennas today and asked him if it is necessary to isolate the beam from the mast. He said that I don't have to and that no one else does it this way - but would be interesting to see the results if I did. Anybody ever isolated the beam from the mast? Would I need to add a choke for the vertical and horizontal elements?
Just fishing...
(y)
 
Finally...

F I N A L L Y got the rotor and control box. An oldie but a decent unit. It's a CDE AR-22; didn't go with the one shown in the first post. Paid $50 for it. Looks like it never had been exposed to the elements; rotor looks relatively new. To be used for the Gizmotchy 4 element beam review that is still coming up. Tomorrow I will get 2 -50 ft pre-made Cable Xpert RG-213 coax, 200 fr of guy wire (probably dacron), and 50 ft of 4 conductor wire to use between the control box and the rotor. Starting to all come together finally. The weather has been nice - in the 70's - so the ground where I need to work won't become a mud pit. Soon enough it will dry up.
(y)
 

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Love the Art Deco control box!

Genuine Bakelite. Everything works. 5 degree (estimate) increments rotor movement per click. A bit old, but has its cool value. Like a '39 Chevy and nearly the same era. Going to check/possibly replace the non-polarized starter capacitor before I put it into service. They are famous for their failures.
 
I used to have my AR-22 control box sitting on a pillow on my desk. When operating late at night, I'd turn the center knob to the proper position and quickly flop another pillow on top of the box to muffle the "kerCHUNK kerCHUNK" sound. Fortunately, newer ones are a bunch quieter!
 
I used to have my AR-22 control box sitting on a pillow on my desk. When operating late at night, I'd turn the center knob to the proper position and quickly flop another pillow on top of the box to muffle the "kerCHUNK kerCHUNK" sound. Fortunately, newer ones are a bunch quieter!

The newer control boxes are interchangable with it then? DO they have the same problems with the starting capacitor?
:pop:
 
That AR-22 looks like it's NOS - good deal. I agree on the bakelite control box - nice (y)

Just a suggestion - if you coat the rotator body with something (I painted mine with gray enamel), as well as clear coating on all the antenna components, it will help to keep the attack of coastal salt air from quickly corroding all that nice bright metal.
 

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