Yes you can, rule of thumb is you want to make the wires slightly longer then needed because they will require tuning.
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Random Wire and MFJ-941e Question
- Thread starter CB590
- Start date
Thank you folks for input.
I will save up the $20-50 for a balun and 2nd coax line and go from there.
I will just tune my existing Firestik for some of 10m for now with what I got.
I may play with a single long random wire too.
That will give me time to figure out best spot for the balun to go and get my max wire length straight.
I can then utilize my 2m/70cm KW TM-v71a again back on that metal post again with my Comet dual band antenna.
Then I'll have 'real' shack.. Though a small one..
I will save up the $20-50 for a balun and 2nd coax line and go from there.
I will just tune my existing Firestik for some of 10m for now with what I got.
I may play with a single long random wire too.
That will give me time to figure out best spot for the balun to go and get my max wire length straight.
I can then utilize my 2m/70cm KW TM-v71a again back on that metal post again with my Comet dual band antenna.
Then I'll have 'real' shack.. Though a small one..
If I wanted to use my existing coax up to a balun, would it be OK to use a N female to PL259 adaptor??
My current coax has an N male going to antenna and I'd rather not hack it off??
I have the adaptor needed here already at the house.. And I'm itching to buy the MFJ-918 and get more bands..
My current coax has an N male going to antenna and I'd rather not hack it off??
I have the adaptor needed here already at the house.. And I'm itching to buy the MFJ-918 and get more bands..
Late to the party here... I talked with a guy a while back that was running his fan dipole mounted TO his privacy fence. It worked quite well, despite the lack of height. He used to have pics of it on his QRZ page, but told me that he took it down due to his HOA saying absolutely no transmitting antennas, and he thought they might sue him. All that being said, your fence might be an option for the fan dipole.
Me? I'm a little crazy and mounted a string of 12 gauge wire to my roof. Used "U" shaped staples and secured it about every foot, and ended up with a nice equilateral triangle. You cannot see the antenna, as the insulation is the same color as my shingles. Fed it in the bottom corner with a 4:1 balun and some coax to the shack, and it works on 40, 20, 17, 15, and 10, and is resonant on those bands. Yes, I have to use a tuner. Dimensions of each leg worked out to be dead on for a 40 meter delta loop. I've been using it for about 2 years now, and it works good enough to make DX contacts into Europe, Russia, New Zealand, Balize, Venezuela, and a few others. Stateside is easy breezy. Not so easy with 100 watts, but 800 makes the breezy part.
Oh yeah, it's not supposed to work. You know, too close in proximity to the shingles will cause attenuation (it doesn't), SWR will be high (it's not), and interference from electronics in the house will make it deaf (it's not).
73,
Brett
Me? I'm a little crazy and mounted a string of 12 gauge wire to my roof. Used "U" shaped staples and secured it about every foot, and ended up with a nice equilateral triangle. You cannot see the antenna, as the insulation is the same color as my shingles. Fed it in the bottom corner with a 4:1 balun and some coax to the shack, and it works on 40, 20, 17, 15, and 10, and is resonant on those bands. Yes, I have to use a tuner. Dimensions of each leg worked out to be dead on for a 40 meter delta loop. I've been using it for about 2 years now, and it works good enough to make DX contacts into Europe, Russia, New Zealand, Balize, Venezuela, and a few others. Stateside is easy breezy. Not so easy with 100 watts, but 800 makes the breezy part.
Oh yeah, it's not supposed to work. You know, too close in proximity to the shingles will cause attenuation (it doesn't), SWR will be high (it's not), and interference from electronics in the house will make it deaf (it's not). 73,
Brett
Ordered today end fed box with 9-1 unun in it. 40' of LMR-240 and 2 new PL-259's.. I plan on using ground counterpoise wire on the end fed box too.
Did measuring, I should be able to get to 45-50 on a slope..
Then both rigs will be up and going..
Did measuring, I should be able to get to 45-50 on a slope..
Then both rigs will be up and going..
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Do I need a 1:1 before the 9:1 box outside??
Or does the 9:1 do the same thing as far as handling RF bleed??
Or does the 9:1 do the same thing as far as handling RF bleed??
Its an End Fed matchbox from EBay. Has a 9:1 unun in it, has ground/counterpoise lug on outside of matchbox as well.
I ordered up the MFJ915 1:1 choke/balun inline with double SO239 on each end..
The 'matchbox' end fed maker suggests no counterpoise/ground on the actually box.. But does say if I want to use the 1:1 choke/balun to put it at the feed point. (Guessing antenna feed point just before the matchbox)..
Does that make sense??
The 'matchbox' end fed maker suggests no counterpoise/ground on the actually box.. But does say if I want to use the 1:1 choke/balun to put it at the feed point. (Guessing antenna feed point just before the matchbox)..
Does that make sense??
Can the antenna wire go up say 8' from the matchbox, then over on up slope about 32', then drop down on other side of branch about 11'' to get resonant length of about 53'??
Or does it stop working at the max height at the tree branch??