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RM Italy 203p amp

Here we go again. Just got another 203P and it is doing the very same thing as the first one i got. Just as soon as you turn it on the noise level will jump up just like it would if you would turn on the preamp. And the preamp is off. I still can not get it to throw out any power. Yes i have it on AM and not SSB, And yes i have it hooked up right. My 203 that i do have works just fine and my Palomar Elite 250HD works just fine and they are hooked up just the way the 203P was hooked up. RM Italy is no help and H&Y is no help. Can anyone give me some kind of ideal of what is going on.

Not sure about your model, but on the 300P's, the pre-amp is one whenever the amp is on. It's the biggest flaw of the amp, but modable to add a on/off swith for the pre-amp or to disable alltogther, which is what I did.
 
203P

I had someone to email me and he told me his 203P did the very same thing. He said he do everything he could think of to get it to work and nothing helped.
 
The RM KL 203-P amp is a very nice little linear amp for the money. I've bought 2 of them and so far they have performed flawlessly for the past few months.
 
I know this may sound stupid, but have you checked to make sure your TX in and TX out are connected properly (and not backwards)? I have a 203P and poofed the preamp somehow, but the amp works great.

73,
Brett
 
I had to sell my RM 203-p and now my friend is mad at me thinking that I tried to rip off. My pre amp on this is working well. But no output power at all, I have read everything on this forum and I think everyone is have the same problem (there are removable jumpers on this amp. Could someone help help me out with a schematic on this I can try to figure it out...73's and thanks.

John-861 Va.
 
Here is the latest version I have, from 2005. Didn't look to see how the earlier versions are different.

This is NOT the "P" version with the preamp. Don't have that one.

73
 

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Same as the AD203 add-in board and 4w as mentioned years ago in the OP is absolutely too much carrier into that amp/board.

Wish they’d sell the P version like the AD203, some guys would like that and it’d be another piece to fix when they blow it ATH in a few weeks.
 
I’m running one daily behind a 980ssb at about a 2 watt dead key swinging to about 10 Watts and I’m seeing about 90 Watts on a bird meter on the bench at 14 volts.. if your wanting more power get a bigger amp because over driving this amp will burn it up fast. I originally hooked this to the stock radio at 4 Watts dead key and it got hot fast and only showed a 115 watt output!
 
I had to sell my RM 203-p and now my friend is mad at me thinking that I tried to rip off. My pre amp on this is working well. But no output power at all, I have read everything on this forum and I think everyone is have the same problem (there are removable jumpers on this amp. Could someone help help me out with a schematic on this I can try to figure it out...73's and thanks.

John-861 Va.


Did the amp work fine when you ran it? If so then it was converted correctly (jumper moved to correct slot). If it did work properly for you then either he hooked it up wrong, has a bad jumper, or the amp has developed a problem. I would bench test it again on your known working station.
 
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Same as the AD203 add-in board and 4w as mentioned years ago in the OP is absolutely too much carrier into that amp/board.

Wish they’d sell the P version like the AD203, some guys would like that and it’d be another piece to fix when they blow it ATH in a few weeks.
Same as the AD203 add-in board and 4w as mentioned years ago in the OP is absolutely too much carrier into that amp/board.

Wish they’d sell the P version like the AD203, some guys would like that and it’d be another piece to fix when they blow it ATH in a few weeks.
The AD203 is different than the KL203. If you look at the schematic of the two in comparison , it will be obvious that there is a difference in the two little amplifiers. I have both and have physically compared the two. The Kl203 is just a little more sophisticated in its design.
 
The RM kl 203p is rated at 10w input,so how can 4w avg deadkey 100% modulated to 6w avg or 16w pep be too much?

swinging 18-20w from 1.5w is a ridiculous amount of overmodulation and sounds awful,not to mention is highly inconsiderate of those around you who use radios.

just out of curiosity have you guys ever used these amps? because they run on 4w fm no problem,so i can't see an extra 2w off am modulation when fully modulated with the same size of carrier doing any damage.maybe you all know something about am swing that i don't.

why would you use a 3 foot or 6 foot jumper? (thats a cb myth) the only jumper length that wouldn't transform the impedance the radio see's from the amps input would be 12 feet or very short under a few inches.

whoever told you guys 1.5w deadkey swinging 18-20w pep sounds ok seriously needs new hearing aids for their batteries.
I run a four Watt dead key into mine swinging to 16 with crazy modulation from a power mic, and that amp screams. I am cooling it off an A/C vent, so maybe I'm extending it's life, but a while ago I took my rig into my local CB shop to give me an assessment on my setup, and he said the amp loves a 4 Watt dead key.
 
Put a 1-2 watt dead key and no more than 18-20 watts swing and you will be good. Also adding a small fan to that amp will help extend the life of it.
I have a Workman SWR and Watt meter the cheap ones that are like 40 bucks when I dead key it it reads for Watts but when I talk and do it it doesn't swing up to higher wattage do them SWR meters act like that or am I looking at a totally different watt meter that I should be using to look at the swing
 

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