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the volt on the power supply at the terminal doesn't drop they only drop inside the radio The problem is the only thing between your power supply and your radio such as: DC power cord or DC power cord connections(including any inline fuse(s) in the DC power cord. (I should have written "Fuse...

DC power cord or DC power cord connections(including any inline fuse(s) in the DC power cord. 73 David

They appear to be the same relays in a Palomar 300a. I will check my documentation when I get home. 73 David

Just a thought-If you are using your 5555n2 as a base station and are using a low pass filter in the antenna line, the filter will block all signals above 30 Mhz in both transmit and receive. 73 David

According to the 1st chart you posted, Lug 1=Black and Lug 5=White is the setting for 252-265V. Lug 1=Black and Lug 4=White would be 240-252V. (Factory Setting) Lug 1=Black and Lug 4=White with the Brown wire on Lug 5 and Lug 6=Purple wire would be blower speed High. (Factory Setting) 73 David

guitar_199, I feel your pain. I am facing a similar situation. For me it is a right hip and a left thumb joint (yes, that joint can be replaced. Who woulda thought?). These are just the starters as there is more coming. Getting old is not for Sissies! God Speed to you!!! 73 David

1. What was the modification to the transmitter to allow more channels? Can you provide a detailed picture of the inside of this unit and the wiring to and from the "additional tuner"? 2. Am I correct that the Transadapter allows switching between the two transmitters? Yes. You are correct. 3...

Try these. I am pretty sure that @tramdr posted them a few months(years?) ago. Thank you TramDr! 73 David

pad the clarifiers LOWER (to ground side) to keep linearity play with 680, 560 or 750 or 820 ohm resistors keep the knob centered and then on top of that - have some thermal stability? (Above condensed-yet again-from @Handy Andy post #2 of this thread) Fingers Crossed here. 73 David

I believe those are Q51 and Q52 not QS1 and QS2. 73 David

Dan, You will need to un-solder one leg of the diodes to test them. 73 David

STEP 1-UNPLUG THE AMPLIFIER AND MAKE SURE ALL HIGH VOLTAGE HAS BLED DOWN!! This amplifier (and any amplifier) should appear to your receiver as a solid piece of coax cable with no attenuation at all. With this in mind, a quick and simple test would be to hook up your transmitter in reverse...

The tubes have nothing to do with receive. (Unless you have a tube based RF sniffer circuit using a 6BQ5 or 6AQ5-usually in the very old Mavericks. If so you would have 9 total tubes above the chassis.) Check the path from the antenna connector to the transmitter connector and you will find...

Dirty relay contacts. 73 David

I've got an FL-2100B here to restore for someone else (after my much needed vacation!) that I know nothing of its operating condition. It does look original and very dirty internally. I will not start on it until after Memorial Day but will update this thread with any information I find. 73 David

Check all main power supply rectifiers and filter capacitors. Check all (if any) low voltage (12v) rectifiers as well. From your pictures, the filter capacitors look to be original. Bad Juu-Juu! They have to go!! 73 David

At least one of them is wrong. The radio should have a proper alignment and I would use something more than a $69.00 frequency counter to align it with. 73 David

I was looking at the schematic I have for the Midland 77-882 which shows the same board number as yours. Since the VCO is an "aftermarket", maybe the tantalums need to be a different value? Looking at the 77-882 schematic, capacitor #'s C1, C4, C6, C8 & C22 all reference a "nominal value"...

If it is in the meter circuit, I am sure it could. 73 David

I would be tempted to short across the "S-Meter" terminals of the switch temporarily to see if that improved the reading. There is only a very tiny current through the switch and any small disruption could create your problem. The meter is a 500uA meter and it should be capable of measuring a...