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I made good contact with Mexico on 40 USB, He didn't speak English and I speak just enough Spanish to tell them I don't speak enough Spanish..LOL.

So, I've been having a problem with random SWR spikes and a loss of receive after keying (with or w/o amp). I've been chasing grounds, reflowing coax solder, Checked continuity with a Fluke 87V using Nanosiemens (nS), rechecked antenna tune at least 5 times....everything was well within...

Was listening to 38 LSB yesterday afternoon and heard a guy that sounded JUST like the desert dildo, but nicer. Other than that one guy, I haven't heard anything through the bands.

I talked to unit 4 in Cali around 1030 this morning on LSB 38. Said he'd been listening for a couple of hrs this morning and I'm the first one he'd really heard today.

30-55mA https://www.copblock.org/items/Russian-soviet-Military-Vacuum-Relay-V1v-W1w-B1b-1-1b-10a-3-Kv-Use_324323315550.html

The amount of drift in older radios vary between radios and most all that I'm aware of are directly affected by temperature, they would stabilize once they reached operating/steady temps, then you could dial them in, The 148 and Galaxies are in that group. I would recommend a Stryker or the new...

When you say "not soldered", are you refering to 1 of the 3 legs not being soldered? If so, that's normal.

From my own "Imma see what they'll do" test..... 18 VDC will kill an Hg in about 5 good keys and about 3 two minute keys. Hell, 16 VDC is stressing the daylights out of them. Wattage increases? At 18 VDC I gained about 1.5 times the watts from 13.6 VDC. The hfe on the transistors went to crap...

I believe it's more for prevention of interferance from the radio than actually protecting the device. It's been a few years since I piddled with that type of stuff though.

If I'm not mistaken, I "think" it was a ceramic disc capacitor.

Smokey and the Bandit. 1978-ish All I can remember is it was a 23 ch. Pace my grandfather put it in his old Mercury Comet with a little mag mount.

Is it actually producing power? What position is the pre-amp switch in? If it's in the "ON" position, the relay will energize at power on.

Reloading, making my own black powder, target shooting, riding my motorcycle, and with 6 daughters and 11 grandkids....fixing toys, autos and appliances and just being the general family handyman.

With a 1.5+ year wait time for a repair... it damn well better be neat, it's the only way to justify the time it takes. His boxes produce the same watts as 95% of the decent builders out there and more watts than the other 5%, so the term "better" doesn't fit the usage here. Like I said, he's a...

Just curious.... is the radio you ordered "allowed" in the UK? Only reason I ask is because I've ordered a few "things" from different countries only to have either their customs or ours snatch it up. In which cases I didn't get a refund because I should have known better (oh, I did LOL).

Followed your link and saw this one in the "related products"....rebranded I'm guessing? Are they the same price or is one more than the other? If the price is the same, I'll probably get it.

BBI.... I will give him credit for talking a good game and using words and terms that dazzle the unknowing. He's a good tech but he is by NO means an amp god... he uses the same methods and components every other builder does. If anything, he's the Finetune on the amp side of things..... I don't...

Here's a Tutorial that should help.

Made contact with 500 Arkansas around 1400 yesterday, about the only one all week.

With the V2, I'll go into the menu to the lo-pwr setting, I'll roll it all the way down then turn the amp on and roll it back up until the amp relay activates. I'll turn the amp off and measure the output of the radio to get a good baseline of what it takes to turn the amp on. I'll cut the box...