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No, smart business sense. If there is a demand and you have most of the supply, they have to buy from you. Carl makes his money and Rooster makes his, which is why they both do it.

Well, I suspect we won't be hearing from him again? I certainly wouldn't frequent a place where all I received was bad suggestions from people who were trying to help but ended up just wasting my time....

A little dielectric grease will solve that issue. Coat the end of the stinger with the grease, insert it back into the antenna mast, tighten the set screws and wipe the excess from around the mass tip... Nice and weather tight. *edit to add* Do the same on the threaded shaft that connects the...

That ferrite has an impedance of 2500 @ 100 MHz so the higher you go in channels, the more the ferrite is going to attempt to snuff.... Now, I ain't any kinda tech so I could be wrong...hell, probably am....

How are the watts? Have you noticed a drop? I'm thinking that because of both issues. Why is there ferrite on the coax? That's going to cause issues because it's going to attempt to "trap" your signal. I'd be willing to bet the ferrite gets hot as the door hinges of hell when you transmit.

Sounds like the input tune is going/has gone to crap

Donkey Stomper.... been happy with both of my amps from him. A 1 pill is 195.00

If I had the spare cash, I'd buy it JUST because you're still using a flip phone.

Split bolts are the minimum that should be used for any splicing connection that may conduct current. As the Captain said, if possible, a solid run is always best.

If it's me, yup....I'll take it

I'd like to find out what a fair price is and if I can afford it, I'd be interested in it.

The 2 on the front board certainly are as indicated by the smoked 10 ohms. I'd guess the 2 on the rear board are down to about 6-8 hFE. I'd like to see the board with the soot removed to see if the trace is still useable.

I can honestly say I've never seen a combiner/splitter vaporize like that before....I'm impressed.

I had a 2 pill with a bad input tune that did this, he had to change the capacitance, can't remember if it was more or less but that fixed the issue. It only did it on my radio, hooked it to his bench radio and there was no issue, walked straight out to the truck, hooked it to mine and it was...

This is the old school 2 pill build I requested for the 99v2 trade. I'm going to baby this ol girl like I should have done all of them 30 years ago.... 13 VDC, about 15-40 watts PEP drive max. That 99v2 is putting out 50 PEP +/- and the Connex 3300 I'm pairing her with puts out around 35-ish...

Is the relay disengaging? I believe if the relay hangs up, even with the power button "off" you will still be "keying" the transistors...this would explain the box heating as it's basically transmitting the whole time.

Either the contactor pads on the NC circuit in the relay are arced or the capacitors for the tune have lost their value or come lose, I'd go with the later myself. There's not a whole lot going on during the pass through operation.

Struck a deal with Chad (Donkey Stomper). He was looking for a 99v2 in good condition, mine looked excellent but needed aligning. Sent it to him, he checked it out, straightened it out and agreed to continue with our deal. I sent him 2 original Toshiba, non-red dot 2879s and he's building an old...

No radio connected, it keys? If so, I'd say use the circuit in the video I posted as a troubleshooting tool. Sounds like the keying circuit or component is shorted as done in the video.

Sounds like a jumper or antenna coax issue to me....assuming your meter is good.