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Sorry for taking your thread in another direction. As I mentioned before, when I first set up my pickup I bonded the hood. That’s the only bonding I have done. I believe it made a perceptible difference...but sometimes I would hear engine noise again and I second guess that. Then, most...

Yes please. This has gone off the rails.

I just try to wrap my head around things, @Handy Andy . Discussion helps that along immensely...and especially when several folks with different viewpoints and experiences contribute...the “food for thought” gets tossed back and forth, and feeds my brain. I actually went back to read my first...

That must be the first negative comment I have ever heard about Breedlove. Folks are usually singing the joys. And just to be clear, that’s merely an observation and not intended to counter your comments - I’ve never touched a Breedlove mount.

Actually, there’s tons of situations where a part cannot be sourced for current equipment and has to be purchased from outside the system, or obtained from salvaged equipment...aka “scrounged”.

I’d do the Grimbergen, but generally not a fan of lagers. Then again....who am I kidding. I’d probably have both and ask for more.

The military would also pay $40,000, if not more for the device. We have a highly dysfunctional procurement system.

Pan fried some deli sliced corned beef and put on a grilled bagel with provolone and my favorite: Grey Poupon….a poor man's corned beef sandwich with some semi-fancy mustard. Then a slice of cheesecake. Washed it down with....lol....your guess.

Nah...not an intrusion. Just wanted to make sure my thoughts were clear. I very intently avoided the acronym “SWR” in that post, lol. Still - I’ll tell you up front, I don’t think tuning for SWR or X amounts to a hill of beans for 99% of mobile installs. I hope I’m wrong, as I’ve changed to...

Now if we’re going to get together and fish...you should come down here and we’ll do the Big Rock...just saying. All the best Leo...

You’ll notice in my photo it’s not showing ohms, but miliohms...thousandths of an ohm. So at 36.6 miliohms shown, I am very near zero at that frequency.

The closer to zero the better.

Instead of selecting SWR in the menu, select “MORE” Then select REACTANCE Then observe the number at the top as you scroll the wheel left and right across the freq range. It’s probably never going to hit zero because it measures at very small values, but at some point it will go from...

That’s all you need. In line at the store...I’ll update post later.

Yes. But given the choice I'd put an analyzer on it and see what the X is. If improving the SWR would mean worsening the X, I'd just leave it. 1.5 isn't bad at all.

@Shadetree Mechanic, I’m always asking a lot of your guinea pig post here, but when you get a chance can you give an update as to your final drive levels, power output and etc? Also curious if you played with the two trimmers at all, and if so, what results you had. Still need to rebuild...

That’s exactly what I was going to say...just file some grooves into it.

Andy, I'm referring to tuning antennas for lowest X, not SWR. And what I'm discussing in the post you quoted was looking at the R at the point X=zero to judge the effectiveness of the RF ground. The actual point of the post is discussing whether its worth pursuing a R of less than 50ohms, if...

Saw them for sale for years, but don’t know that I ever heard one on the air. I’ve always been a fan of the 1446.

I went for 500 plus ohms at 27mhz. I don’t have a choke at the radio or amp however, only at the feedpoint.