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I totally get that, But $1200 for a couple hundred watts is a bit steep I think. I wouldn't mind if I could get the higher numbers out of it. I know where I can get a really nice used one for about $850 but still....
That says you need at least 65 watts in to get specfied output. My radio will only dead key 15 watts max and PEP is about 60. So not sure what I would get out of it based on that.
Looking for something I can use as a base amp on 10/11 meters perhaps something newer/solid state that won't have issues like this old amp I have now with things like impedance problems. I don't need anything top of the line and like I said 500-800 watts. Would prefer something I can plug in but...
If not I’ll probably just sell the amp. It works well otherwise and I think I can get good money for it and get something without that issue. Though I would prefer to fix this one of I can.
I think I found the thread but it does t really say how to construct it. You just have a pic of it at the end of the thread. I need a step by step. Sorry, I’m not that advanced to figure that out otherwise.
So I have an old 9 tube base amp (PAL 750b). The radio has an SWR meter built into it and I have an external watt/SWR meter at the antenna side . When I key the radio with the amp off or on stand by, the SWR at radio and meter are nice and low.
But when I put the amp on, the SWR in the radio...
D50 checked out ok. D49 however did not. I did previously have a burnt final so I think that has been toast for awhile. I will find a replacement for that.
Thank you . I will try to test the diode with my VOM. Assuming it is good, then what would be causing the burning up of the choke/driver? A bad solder joint/connection?
How do i test this circuit without frying the choke, transistor, or mode switch? I know the bias check procedure but if there is a good chance I will fry components as soon as I key the mike, that makes it difficult...thanks
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