Search results

thank you for the reply nomad. I have seen that spread that you speak of and that is partially what made me ask the question. since we know that input power changes the impedance that the amp sees, which way should we be leaning when it comes to input tuning on an amp? This local discussion...

my advice is to not turn this amplifier on or even plug it in until you refurb it with that kit. after that, a dim bulb tester is a good idea when turning on tube equipment of dubious history or work. be sure to note the polarity of all the electrolytic caps as they are before you replace them...

"loud" and "clean" are two terms that fight each other a lot in the CB hobby. the "swing mod" for the 29LTD (or pretty much any other transformer modulated AM CB radio of the past) will make the radio sound louder on the other end. It will not have a clean scope pattern. If you do the mod...

This question came up during a local CB group chat and i had to admit that i hadn't ever really given it much thought, and always just used a deadkey. Then someone brought up "what about SSB" and i feel like they may have a point. or do they? So i figured i'd bring up the question to this...

im a little confused by your last post. What im talking about it putting your scope probe on pins 7 or 8 in TX mode and turning the slug in L48 looking for a peak in amplitude. LC

if you're talking about those kits that are sold by CB City Intl i don't think that scheme works with the TC9106 PLL. or are you talking about making your own version of the EXPO model S kit? LC

if you put your scope on the secondary of L48 can you get it to peak? LC

just so we are all on the same page, can you tell us exactly what does and doesn't work right now? it sounds to me like you can hear yourself on another radio in all modes but aren't showing any watts out. is that correct? if so, how are you measuring your output? LC

gee i don't know about the counterfeit 2314's. its been so long since i bought one i guess the supply has dried up? LC

copy that. by "before the driver" did you mean L14 or L13? I only ask because many people will try to add a slug to L13 and try to tune it, but it is just the voltage feed for the collector and doesn't "tune" anything. Sounds like you are done messing with it, but just for the future...

instead of removing the slug from that final tuning coil, remove one turn from it and then you will be able to peak that coil using the slug. LC

Like this? https://stores.goldeneagleradios.com/galaxy-push-botton-switch-dx-88-93-95-2547-cobra-148fgtl/ LC

yep that's the AMC pot. There are washingtons out there with that board version as well. before you go messing with it, you should make sure that TR32 and R105 are intact and not cut/removed. LC

i dont believe the modulation meter is supposed to work on SSB. LC

exact same board as the galaxy DX959. LC

noted. I remember Andy talking about R193 and what it does but had completely forgotten to consider it. thank you for the clarification. LC

the voltage on TP7 and TP8 should be less than 11 volts in AM mode. it should also vary when you turn VR10. what voltages are you seeing on TR35 in both RX and TX? LC

there are quite a few variations of this board as it was used in a few different radios and was produced for over a decade. for example, the Teaberry Stalker XV is basically the same radio you have there, but would be 385AD and would not have that pot, nor the holes for it. you have a later...

the diode is from the clarifier mod. the brown wire is also from the clarifier mod. if clarifier is working properly you can leave these two things alone. as TM86 posted, check the voltages on the MB3756 paying close attention to the voltages on pins 6 and 8 in RX and TX. they should both...

but it has a bass and treble control on the front!!! LOL also, what idiot designer put USB on the left and LSB on the right? these chinese radio designs are really starting to annoy me. LC