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Stay away from the junk export radios and get a REAL HF rig. If you plan on getting your ham ticket, don't waste the money on the exports. Just save up an extra couple hundred bucks and get an HF radio that will cover all the bands and do 100W. No brainer. ~Cheers~

With the price of transistors, I just couldn't get myself to run anything like that. I want my stuff to last, especially since most of my stuff still has Toshibas in them. ~Cheers~

I never understood a 1x2... or a 2x4. When I bought that X-Force 2x4, I took the driver section out and made it a straight 4. Way too much drive in either configuration. ~Cheers~

Another thing you can try is to install an LM7808 voltage regulator IC right off the power supply and feed the fans off that to provide some isolation from the main power supply in the radio. The fans may run a little slower, but they should still flow enough air to cool the heatsink. Make sure...

Silly suggestion, check all of the wires at the mic jack and inspect the PCB mounted to the jack itself and confirm all parts and wires are soldered well and accounted for. Could possibly be something suspect at the mic jack, if you haven't checked everything there. ~Cheers~

Output SWR/tuning can cause that, excessive voltage on the amp, and excessive input drive. Those three things are usually the cause of a transistor going bad, but I have seen cases where a transistor just simply fails. Had that happen recently to my T/S 667V. There is an outside chance that...

On both of my 667V's, R3 ties to R2 on a post on the power switch to ground as a way of swamping the input wattage, so you don't overdrive the driver transistor, and the variable resistor. Also, the way the variable is wired doesn't match, either. Doesn't even look like it's wired correctly to...

Handy Andy is indeed right, that does not look correct. Here are the spots that you may need to add capacitance. The first set of arrows in white is at the input, the yellow set is at the output combiner, the green set is between the driver and final section. It's best to use a 465 ARCO...

It appears as though there are no tuning capacitors on the output side of the amp, nor is there a tuning capacitor between the driver and the finals. I'd suspect that's the issue. Unfortunately, Texas Star has really dropped the ball when it comes to the new amps, they just throw the DEI...

All this makes me glad I went back to CB. ~Cheers~

Thank you Sunbulls! Odd that my Ebay searches came up with nothing, even when I tried multiple keywords. I shall purchase one of these! ~Cheers~

Hiya folks, I have a very nice Kenwood MC-85 desk microphone, but the foam ball that's on the end of the neck is sun faded really bad and has a couple of burn spots on it. I would like to find another foam ball to replace it, where would a person be able to purchase said item? I have...

I'll answer that question on the 2879's in that Ebay listing.... they are guaranteed fake. Don't buy them. They will not tell you the truth, either. They will lie and say they are the real deal, but they are not. Here's a video I just made that exposes and addresses the fakes, using the exact...

Yes, that is it. Depending on the Rev level. You have to jump across 1 or 2 sets of "pads" to switch the IF from 10.69(7)5 to 7.8, which is what the Madison uses. ~Cheers~

Then likely it's the disc caps under the final. I would install the insulator, and fully remove the 2 - 561 disc caps under the final. Your output power will drop a little, but that also means your impedance is matched on the final, and you're not reflecting wattage back into the final. Should...

Doubtful, electrolytics are not going to be the cause of SWR spikes in this case. The 2 disc caps that sit under the final would be the primary culprit here, only other thing that could cause an SWR spike is something at the antenna, whether it's a bad coax connection, or a bad connection within...

You'll just want to use a little dab on each side of the insulator, and spread it out a little so it covers the majority of the insulator. Don't use Arctic Silver or any CPU type thermal paste, it can be conductive and you do not want that. You'll want to get thermal paste that is used...

Yes, you do. Between the insulator and the chassis, and then between the insulator and the final itself. In short, you'd want to put thermal paste on both sides of the insulator. ~Cheers~

These would be a good insulator to use. These are mica insulators. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-BRAND-NEW-FRESH-TO-220-CASE-TRANSISTOR-MICA-INSULATOR-KEYSTONE-4672-IN-USA/311585493154?epid=1318316498&hash=item488bf150a2:g:JOEAAOSwSX9XAxLF ~Cheers~

Yes, those caps need to be re-soldered back to the final. Those two caps are there to help with impedance matching on the final. If the caps fell off or became unsoldered, you can experience the SWR spikes that you are currently seeing. The right way to fix it is to install a ceramic or mica...