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Id venture a guess of gold to folks like us, probably scrap price to the average Joe (assuming copper, and not copper-clad alum windings).

Need more info, if this is a new radio to you, maybe it has TalkBack mod installed. If it has worked fine until now, then started talking back, that's necessary info too. Have you tried another mic? If you want help, start from the beginning and tell everything, no matter how insignificant.

That is an interesting idea, Nomad, that speaker cabinet is full of air and opportunity. It looks to certainly be big enuf...

I think I talked myself out of installing another power supply. I could wire just the stinger to the DC plug, using an external supply just for the stinger, as I always have an ext. supply running. Still undecided.

I have read conflicting accounts, some say yay, some say nay. Someone on another forum said they had to re-bias it or it won't work well. That's why I wanted to see if anyone had successfully done it. I have read bad reviews of that board even on am, but that was not my experience, as long as...

A friend gave me a non-working radio, although in pretty good condition, the issues were a bad capacitor array on the program pins, a broken trace on one of the 7 segment displays, pin rot on the pll from corrosive glue, stuck meters, various blown bulbs and a missing top chassis shield. So...

I think the super caps were meant to be a band-aid, a sort of temp fix for issues caused by a weaker stock alternator and small gauge wire, particularly over a long run, such as an amp and sub installed in a trunk. I agree with the previous suggestions of larger alternator, sufficient gauge wire...

Thank you J.J.

I am looking for a replacement alternative for item CC1, looks like a ceramic array, tied to the program pins 11-14 of the pll. Could I just use 4 30nf ceramics?

Oh, what size fuse should I use for this 4x8? I have a 30A in it now but I don't want to oversize it. My 2x4 calls for a 15A, I assumed double for a 4x8.

Thank you sir. I shorted a turn and it brought the tune control to approx. half mesh position peak, and there are now 2 peaks in a 360 degree rotation. It did move the load peak around some, but still between max and min capacitance.

My friend brought 8 tubes to replace the ones he blew up. I set out to check this amp, and it does seem to work now, however, the final tune cap is completely un-meshed for a (false) peak. Could be why it blew up in the first place. I'm going to adjust the final output coil and see if I can...

Thank you for explaining it to me.

Nice job! Why do you remove the fifth final tube?

Here ya go!

Don't know if it will help your issue, but is this shorting to ground?

I saw something similar once, it took me an hour to find that solder blob.

I clung to the capacitor fault idea because while power is reduced during its fits of failure, the tune control does see a peak in another position and when the fit is over, must be peaked back to original position. I will also check the grids per your suggestion. Thanks, I did order some to...

The schematic states .006 for that cap, I guess that's in uF? Is that an NPO ceramic? It's not green like other NPO I've seen. It's rather large as well. I figure voltages to be 900-1200 vDC. I need to buy some for these amps, and some for a stash. I see some caps listed that look smaller, and I...

I will check the tune control when it happens, and see if it peaks at a different position. I have a thermal scope that doesn't give the temp or change color, but does change intensity as the part gets hotter. I use it sometimes to find heat related faults in radios, but never thought to use it...