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ADDED MESSAGE: just read your last paragraph and need you to do a couple of easy tests.
with the broken radio set up like this: NB/ANL off, squelch all the way down, volume all the way UP, sound tracker and weather radio off, RF gain all the way UP, mic plugged in, antenna connected.

with your ear against the speaker (so you can hear the slight hiss) turn the squelch up while listening closely.
Did the sound change at some point in the squelch's range, or did it not change a damn thing?
put the squelch back all the way down.

next do the same with the RF gain. starting with it all the way up, ear against the speaker in the quietest room you have LOL, start turning the RF gain down.
did the hiss seem to lessen as the RF gain was turned down or did it not change a damn thing?

Buckskin, W23 is the right part (not sure why the heck they used a 'W' though!)

however, many CB radios (yours being one of them) have what is known as an isolated DC ground, which means that the ground on the PC board is isolated from the chassis (metal case) ground.

they are connected, but it's done through capacitors, and capacitors DO pass AC current (like the RF currents in your radio) but DO NOT pass DC current.

so, connecting your negative probe to the chassis is not going to get you an accurate DC measurement.

you will want to touch the negative probe to any of the metal cans you see on the PC board. each of these cans is a shield that covers a tuning coil, and these shields are all soldered to the DC ground plane on the PC board.

so, try the test again and post the results.

also, while you only want to do one test at a time, there really isn't a first second third type of relationship here because honestly i'm guessing and hoping that one of your tests will shine a light on your problem.

so you can test the voltages on the transistor first, then unsolder the driver and final leads, and while they are still unsoldered from the board (don't resolder them back in place until after you post the results of your tests on them) you can also unsolder one lead of D1, D2, and D3, and test them.

we are really shotgunning here, and if anyone has a more logical method that i am missing, please feel free to chime in.
LC

PS- yes, get some de-soldering braid, but don't bother buying it from a radio shack if you still have any in your area. it is useless.

<blockquote data-quote="loosecannon" data-source="post: 605768" data-attributes="member: 1368">ADDED MESSAGE:&nbsp; just read your last paragraph and need you to do a couple of easy tests.with the broken radio set up like this:&nbsp; NB/ANL off, squelch all the way down, volume all the way UP, sound tracker and weather radio off, RF gain all the way UP, mic plugged in, antenna connected.with your ear against the speaker (so you can hear the slight hiss) turn the squelch up while listening closely.Did the sound change at some point in the squelch&#039;s range, or did it not change a damn thing?put the squelch back all the way down.next do the same with the RF gain.&nbsp;&nbsp; starting with it all the way up, ear against the speaker in the quietest room you have LOL, start turning the RF gain down.did the hiss seem to lessen as the RF gain was turned down or did it not change a damn thing?Buckskin, W23 is the right part (not sure why the heck they used a &#039;W&#039; though!)however, many CB radios (yours being one of them) have what is known as an isolated DC ground, which means that the ground on the PC board is isolated from the chassis (metal case) ground.they are connected, but it&#039;s done through capacitors, and capacitors DO pass AC current (like the RF currents in your radio) but&nbsp; DO&nbsp; NOT pass DC current.so, connecting your negative probe to the chassis is not going to get you an accurate DC measurement.you will want to touch the negative probe to any of the metal cans you see on the PC board.&nbsp; each of these cans is a shield that covers a tuning coil, and these shields are all soldered to the DC ground plane on the PC board.so, try the test again and post the results.also, while you only want to do one test at a time, there really isn&#039;t a first second third type of relationship here because honestly i&#039;m guessing and hoping that one of your tests will shine a light on your problem.so you can test the voltages on the transistor first, then unsolder the driver and final leads, and while they are still unsoldered from the board (don&#039;t resolder them back in place until after you post the results of your tests on them) you can also unsolder one lead of D1, D2, and D3, and test them.we are really shotgunning here, and if anyone has a more logical method that i am missing, please feel free to chime in.LCPS- yes, get some de-soldering braid, but don&#039;t bother buying it from a radio shack if you still have any in your area.&nbsp; it is useless.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="loosecannon, post: 605768, member: 1368"] ADDED MESSAGE: just read your last paragraph and need you to do a couple of easy tests. with the broken radio set up like this: NB/ANL off, squelch all the way down, volume all the way UP, sound tracker and weather radio off, RF gain all the way UP, mic plugged in, antenna connected. with your ear against the speaker (so you can hear the slight hiss) turn the squelch up while listening closely. Did the sound change at some point in the squelch's range, or did it not change a damn thing? put the squelch back all the way down. next do the same with the RF gain. starting with it all the way up, ear against the speaker in the quietest room you have LOL, start turning the RF gain down. did the hiss seem to lessen as the RF gain was turned down or did it not change a damn thing? Buckskin, W23 is the right part (not sure why the heck they used a 'W' though!) however, many CB radios (yours being one of them) have what is known as an isolated DC ground, which means that the ground on the PC board is isolated from the chassis (metal case) ground. they are connected, but it's done through capacitors, and capacitors DO pass AC current (like the RF currents in your radio) but DO NOT pass DC current. so, connecting your negative probe to the chassis is not going to get you an accurate DC measurement. you will want to touch the negative probe to any of the metal cans you see on the PC board. each of these cans is a shield that covers a tuning coil, and these shields are all soldered to the DC ground plane on the PC board. so, try the test again and post the results. also, while you only want to do one test at a time, there really isn't a first second third type of relationship here because honestly i'm guessing and hoping that one of your tests will shine a light on your problem. so you can test the voltages on the transistor first, then unsolder the driver and final leads, and while they are still unsoldered from the board (don't resolder them back in place until after you post the results of your tests on them) you can also unsolder one lead of D1, D2, and D3, and test them. we are really shotgunning here, and if anyone has a more logical method that i am missing, please feel free to chime in. LC PS- yes, get some de-soldering braid, but don't bother buying it from a radio shack if you still have any in your area. it is useless. [/QUOTE]

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