You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
The Feb 2025 Radioddity Giveaway Results are In! Click Here to see who won!

Reply to thread

Message

Poor Fella!.. Your combiner balancing should always use a 100 ohm/ 2 watt flameproof resistor... It "smoked" because the amp blew-up, again... Something may be wrong with the amp besides the outputs and now the resistor... I've seen shorted caps, open resistors, bad bias circuit components or high bias current... You gotta use your print and check everything!..The common misperception among amp users is that when the devices "pop", you can just replace 'em with similar devices that fit the hole... I rebuilt an old, ugly Varmint mobibile amp from the 70's, I believe it was the first one by four ever commercially made... The ancient low gain devices were no longer available, and I had a new quad of 1446's laying around, so I used them...Simple right ?.. Four Hours Later(sigh!) I discovered I had to retune the transformers, rebuild the biasing circuitry, and I had to strap across the driver, they were too drive sensitive!..There's a Huge Difference between MRF453's and the SD1446's...Even if you restore it with original parts, but can't determine the original problem, the results will be catastrophic failure, again... The best option you have is to find a tech that Knows His Amps to repair it, if you can't figure it out... I know you don't want to hear this, but I'd hate to see you blow up another Quad of Devices at $175 Bucks a Pop!.. These things aren't just light bulbs to change out... Sorry about that, brother... I see you've posted on the CBRT forum as well, I hope out of all these guys you get the help you ask for... Good Luck... CBSUPERTECH

<blockquote data-quote="cbsupertech" data-source="post: 357062" data-attributes="member: 23724"><p>Poor Fella!..&nbsp; Your combiner balancing should always use a 100 ohm/ 2 watt flameproof resistor...&nbsp; It &quot;smoked&quot; because the amp blew-up, again... Something may be wrong with the amp besides the outputs and now the resistor... I&#039;ve seen shorted caps, open resistors, bad bias circuit components or high bias current... You gotta use your print and check everything!..The common misperception among amp users is that when the devices &quot;pop&quot;, you can just replace &#039;em with similar devices that fit the hole... I rebuilt an old, ugly Varmint mobibile amp from the 70&#039;s, I believe it was the first one by four ever commercially made... The ancient low gain devices were no longer available, and I had a new quad of 1446&#039;s laying around, so I used them...Simple right ?.. Four Hours Later(sigh!) I discovered I had to retune the transformers, rebuild the biasing circuitry, and I had to strap across the driver, they were too drive sensitive!..There&#039;s a Huge Difference between MRF453&#039;s and the SD1446&#039;s...Even if you restore it with original parts, but can&#039;t determine the original problem, the results will be catastrophic failure, again... The best option you have is to find a tech that Knows His Amps to repair it, if you can&#039;t figure it out... I know you don&#039;t want to hear this, but I&#039;d hate to see you blow up another Quad of Devices at $175 Bucks a Pop!.. These things aren&#039;t just light bulbs to change out... Sorry about that, brother... I see you&#039;ve posted on the CBRT forum as well, I hope out of all these guys you get the help you ask for... Good Luck... CBSUPERTECH</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="cbsupertech, post: 357062, member: 23724"] Poor Fella!.. Your combiner balancing should always use a 100 ohm/ 2 watt flameproof resistor... It "smoked" because the amp blew-up, again... Something may be wrong with the amp besides the outputs and now the resistor... I've seen shorted caps, open resistors, bad bias circuit components or high bias current... You gotta use your print and check everything!..The common misperception among amp users is that when the devices "pop", you can just replace 'em with similar devices that fit the hole... I rebuilt an old, ugly Varmint mobibile amp from the 70's, I believe it was the first one by four ever commercially made... The ancient low gain devices were no longer available, and I had a new quad of 1446's laying around, so I used them...Simple right ?.. Four Hours Later(sigh!) I discovered I had to retune the transformers, rebuild the biasing circuitry, and I had to strap across the driver, they were too drive sensitive!..There's a Huge Difference between MRF453's and the SD1446's...Even if you restore it with original parts, but can't determine the original problem, the results will be catastrophic failure, again... The best option you have is to find a tech that Knows His Amps to repair it, if you can't figure it out... I know you don't want to hear this, but I'd hate to see you blow up another Quad of Devices at $175 Bucks a Pop!.. These things aren't just light bulbs to change out... Sorry about that, brother... I see you've posted on the CBRT forum as well, I hope out of all these guys you get the help you ask for... Good Luck... CBSUPERTECH [/QUOTE]

Top Bottom