What does an ohm meter across that dummy load show?
All things considered, I think the two analyzers are at least of the same accuracy, which isn't all that bad. Those '2 points' of reactance are next to meaningless, you can get that from almost any differences in several things, including who's holding the meter and how.
Expecting pin-point accuracy from any mass produced device is just a little bit unreasonable. But, send the meter back for calibration and ask to know if and how much it was off. One of us is probably going to be a little surprised at the answer (they will answer that question).
How do you tell if that 'X' (reactance) is (+) or (-)? Fastest way is by adding a little known reactance to the antenna and seeing which way the 'X' goes. An antenna a little too long is inductive, or '+X'. Too short is '-X' or capacitive. If you add to the antenna's length slightly and the 'X' gets slightly larger, then the 'X' is inductive or (+). If there's no change, or the 'X' gets slightly smaller, then it's capacitive or (-). That sort of testing relies a great deal on how much length is added, and the knowledge/experience of the person doing the testing. Doing the test circuits with known values is the most reliable, and it's also how calibrations are done by the way.
To add to the confusion a little bit (oh for joy!), all analyzers use a signal generator, or oscillator, or transmitter on a particular frequency (adjustable) to get it's readings. The accuracy of that signal generator shows you what frequency the thing is resonant at. That signal generator can also need calibration. So, the cost of doing all that calibrating isn't gonna be all that cheap. If it gives you peace of mind though, it's well worth it.
- 'Doc
If you still aren't happy with it after having it calibrated, I'll swap you a case of your favorite beer for it. (Ain't paying no shipping though.) Now, is that a deal, or is that a deal!