Hello everyone - I am new to radio so my questions are basic. I have a 102 whip and 50 ft. coax along with some pvc pipe and copper grounding wire and stake. I realize I would have to set up some radials to make this work and I am now wondering if I might be better off going with a "starduster" set up or something more "out of the box". I live in a nice house and my wife will not want this project to become a major visual feature. I do want some distance communication.
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base station antenna choice
- Thread starter upstaterebel
- Start date
If you make and tune the antenna, it will perform about the same as an out of the box antenna mounted at the same tip height, it doesn't matter if it is home made or store bought.
The DB
The DB
Made my own "StarDuster" called it "StarBuster". Made from scrap aluminum tubing. Structural overkill on the dia. of elements. 1.2/1 SWR. I agree with above statement, plus you gain bragging rights for the build.
Using your 102 inch whip and some wire for counterpoise will net you what is pretty equal to the performance of a starduster. I made one of these and call it my starduster wannabe. I get great reports locally using it. For DX it is doing what I need it to do. Talked from Boise Idaho to S. Cal, Arizona, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, S. Dakota, Georgia, Florida with no problems. Often I don't even use any helper for my sideband DXing. More fun that way really. One afternoon I hear a guy doing the, AUDIO, call out into his mic. I responded back to him and give him a report on his audio quality. He was shocked. He did not think he could be heard from NY to Idaho. He was testing his new mic and conditions were just right.
Anyway go ahead and build your antenna. It is a lot of fun to DIY a good antenna. Saves a lot of cash and results are often as good if not better than what you can buy.
Anyway go ahead and build your antenna. It is a lot of fun to DIY a good antenna. Saves a lot of cash and results are often as good if not better than what you can buy.
...or how to hide it when you don't need it .
I don't have access to my cad here but I'll try to explain .
With RF transparent telescoping tube (fiberglass in this case) what you do is get the largest diameter you can and work your way down .
http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm#pricelist
In this case 2 1/2" . Then refer to the "sample kits"
http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-guide.htm
The next size down is 2 1/4" . Cut several rings of the 2 1/4" for bushings and seal support . It works like this . At the top of the 2 1/2" section insert three rings of 2 1/4" leaving enough room between them for a commercial square "O" ring . Do a bit of sluthing on
http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=13s4y4u
or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=13s4yta
I found the "X" profile to work best with irregular surfaces and the 1/32" inch interference to provide a good seal without a great amount of friction/stiction.
Now you have two internal "O" rings and a bushing at the top of the 2 1/2" base section . Repeat this at the base of the 2" second section making three more rings from the 2 1/4" and gluing them to the 2" section leaving room for the same size "O" ring you used on the top of the 2 1/2" section !
Repeat the process as far as you can and you have a radome that can contain anything you can stuff inside . You can easily get to 40' plus in 6 sections .
Modify a small piston compressor to apply pressure . Turn it around to apply vacuum . Store vacuum as well as pressure in small tanks . This has the added benefit of a vacuum source for de-soldering as well as air pressure for blowing the crud everywhere .
The hybrid . With a non-conductive base and metal follow on sections you can make a tuned vertical at any of the common magic lengths . The same practice applies . Skip one size on the way down for bushing and seal support all the way to 1/4" if you think you can get it to work . I found that 3/4" is the practical lower limit . Some sort of electrical continuity will have to be maintained section to section. A simple replaceable brass or copper , sprung , feeler strip is probably okay for all but kilowatt operation .
As far as tuning a 31' or 43' vertical ? SG-230 , manual , rotary switched loading or tuner of your choice . As far as stuffing the radome goes , you are a resourceful experimenter with some imagination or you wouldn't have read this far .
Hope it helps some one .
I don't have access to my cad here but I'll try to explain .
With RF transparent telescoping tube (fiberglass in this case) what you do is get the largest diameter you can and work your way down .
http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm#pricelist
In this case 2 1/2" . Then refer to the "sample kits"
http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-guide.htm
The next size down is 2 1/4" . Cut several rings of the 2 1/4" for bushings and seal support . It works like this . At the top of the 2 1/2" section insert three rings of 2 1/4" leaving enough room between them for a commercial square "O" ring . Do a bit of sluthing on
http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=13s4y4u
or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=13s4yta
I found the "X" profile to work best with irregular surfaces and the 1/32" inch interference to provide a good seal without a great amount of friction/stiction.
Now you have two internal "O" rings and a bushing at the top of the 2 1/2" base section . Repeat this at the base of the 2" second section making three more rings from the 2 1/4" and gluing them to the 2" section leaving room for the same size "O" ring you used on the top of the 2 1/2" section !
Repeat the process as far as you can and you have a radome that can contain anything you can stuff inside . You can easily get to 40' plus in 6 sections .
Modify a small piston compressor to apply pressure . Turn it around to apply vacuum . Store vacuum as well as pressure in small tanks . This has the added benefit of a vacuum source for de-soldering as well as air pressure for blowing the crud everywhere .
The hybrid . With a non-conductive base and metal follow on sections you can make a tuned vertical at any of the common magic lengths . The same practice applies . Skip one size on the way down for bushing and seal support all the way to 1/4" if you think you can get it to work . I found that 3/4" is the practical lower limit . Some sort of electrical continuity will have to be maintained section to section. A simple replaceable brass or copper , sprung , feeler strip is probably okay for all but kilowatt operation .
As far as tuning a 31' or 43' vertical ? SG-230 , manual , rotary switched loading or tuner of your choice . As far as stuffing the radome goes , you are a resourceful experimenter with some imagination or you wouldn't have read this far .
Hope it helps some one .