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Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendations

R

RollingRadios

Guest
Re: Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendat

You know I'm a fan of the Cherokees...and I don't quite get your numbers.

My guess is the JL400 should draw around 110 amps, so I'd fuse it at 125. The battery I'd upgrade to a yellow top, the alternator upgraded as well to 130 or a Powermaster 140. With your radio doing the watts you said, I'd expect about 850-900 pep on the Cherokee with amp wide open, setting radio so amp keys 200. Click onto RMS and it should be around 400 (aauuuudio). Now click to reverse power and 10w scale and back to pep. Look for less than 10w rev with amp on, and it should hold or drop when you modulate. Check the voltage drop AT THE AMP. Wind up to about 450w carrier and check for voltage drop at the amp. With the stock battery and alternator I'd expect a drop to 13.0 or less, and if this is so then the above recommended upgrades would be worthwhile.


Wm. Warlock "671 in Va"





Rollingradios@aol.com





Nat. Rep for XForce/Magna Force Customer Service and Support



</p>
 

Re: Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendat

You know I'm a fan of the Cherokees...and I don't quite get your numbers.

My guess is the JL400 should draw around 110 amps, so I'd fuse it at 125. The battery I'd upgrade to a yellow top, the alternator upgraded as well to 130 or a Powermaster 140. With your radio doing the watts you said, I'd expect about 850-900 pep on the Cherokee with amp wide open, setting radio so amp keys 200. Click onto RMS and it should be around 400 (aauuuudio). Now click to reverse power and 10w scale and back to pep. Look for less than 10w rev with amp on, and it should hold or drop when you modulate. Check the voltage drop AT THE AMP. Wind up to about 450w carrier and check for voltage drop at the amp. With the stock battery and alternator I'd expect a drop to 13.0 or less, and if this is so then the above recommended upgrades would be worthwhile.


Wm. Warlock "671 in Va"





Rollingradios@aol.com





Nat. Rep for XForce/Magna Force Customer Service and Support



</p>
 
Re: Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendat

Your power supply is borderline IMO. I'd at least upgrade the battery. A yellow top will pad the low output of the alternator somewhat. A 140a Powermaster is only $180.


Wm. Warlock "671 in Va"





Rollingradios@aol.com





Nat. Rep for XForce/Magna Force Customer Service and Support



</p>
 
Re: Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendat

Your power supply is borderline IMO. I'd at least upgrade the battery. A yellow top will pad the low output of the alternator somewhat. A 140a Powermaster is only $180.


Wm. Warlock "671 in Va"





Rollingradios@aol.com





Nat. Rep for XForce/Magna Force Customer Service and Support



</p>
 
Well guys..



I *finally* got all the components installed in my mobile rig & am now at the point of trying to configure the rig's settings for optimal performance. Since I know there's quite a few members here w/ a ton more experience running and tuning a rig w/ a linear in a mobile, I'd like anyone w/ some experience to chime in on my config, the numbers I'm seeing, and any recoemmended settings/changes I should maybe consider. That said, here it goes:



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Auto</span>

2003 Chevy Silverado

105A Alternator

600cc Battery



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Radio</span>

RCI 2950DX

Stock Mic

PPE (non-volted NPC), SP-1A, 11M mod (24-32MHz)

Power (Bird): Low DK == 0.5w Max swing is 20W PEP SSB

High DK == 2W. Max swing is 45W PEP AM, 40W PEP SSB



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Amp</span>

Joker JL400-RAB (1-2290 x 4-2879, Regulated Class AB Biased)

Variable Power



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Antenna</span>

Wilson 5000 MM



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Install</span>

Radio power provided via the cigarette lighter (20A circuit).

18' 2Ga. Positive from battery to amp (Fused @ 100A).

5' 4Ga. Negitive from amp to frame

4' 4Ga. Negitive from battery to frame



<span style="text-decoration:underline">AM Performance</span>

** Disclaimer** All measurements taken w/ a Cherokee TM3000 meter.



SWR: CH1= 1:1; CH40= 1.15:1 w/ amp in-line and off (all #s below done on ch 19a)

Radio Power: Set on high; 2W DK, swinging to about 25W PEP (note difference between Bird and Cherokee)

Amp on Minimum Output, Engine 2000 RPM: 10W DK, swinging 400W PEP (w/ a whistle)

-- Voltage drop from 14.1 to 14.0

Amp on Maximum Output, Engine 2000 RPM: 450W DK, swinging 700W PEP (w/ a whistle)

-- Voltage drop from 14.1 to 13.8

Currently Running 1/2 way between Min and Max: 110W DK, swinging 500+ PEP

(I did switch over to SSB and keyup @ last setting for shits and grins... voltage drops to about 13.5 (noticable difference) & I didn't pay that much attention to power.)



<span style="text-decoration:underline">My Questions to the All-Knowing Ones</span>

1) For normal, everyday talking: Is my 110/500+ power setting optimal (or at least close enough)? Should I turn the amp power up? down?



2) Would their be any benefit to turning the radio down (starting at .5W carrier) and amp at full power, then adjust the radio power up to get the 1:4 ratio? Will this result in any difference than the way I have it configured above (radio on high)? (I know most recommend a 2W radio DK, that's why I kept that constant.)



3) Aggitator Mode: When a couple of the local aggitators start playing the "smacked" game, for ultimate re-smacking ability, should I turn the amp to full power 450/700W... or leave as is (1:4)?



4) How do these numbers compare to other radio/4-pill combos you've seen. Am I doing OK?


</p>
 
Well guys..



I *finally* got all the components installed in my mobile rig & am now at the point of trying to configure the rig's settings for optimal performance. Since I know there's quite a few members here w/ a ton more experience running and tuning a rig w/ a linear in a mobile, I'd like anyone w/ some experience to chime in on my config, the numbers I'm seeing, and any recoemmended settings/changes I should maybe consider. That said, here it goes:



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Auto</span>

2003 Chevy Silverado

105A Alternator

600cc Battery



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Radio</span>

RCI 2950DX

Stock Mic

PPE (non-volted NPC), SP-1A, 11M mod (24-32MHz)

Power (Bird): Low DK == 0.5w Max swing is 20W PEP SSB

High DK == 2W. Max swing is 45W PEP AM, 40W PEP SSB



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Amp</span>

Joker JL400-RAB (1-2290 x 4-2879, Regulated Class AB Biased)

Variable Power



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Antenna</span>

Wilson 5000 MM



<span style="text-decoration:underline">Install</span>

Radio power provided via the cigarette lighter (20A circuit).

18' 2Ga. Positive from battery to amp (Fused @ 100A).

5' 4Ga. Negitive from amp to frame

4' 4Ga. Negitive from battery to frame



<span style="text-decoration:underline">AM Performance</span>

** Disclaimer** All measurements taken w/ a Cherokee TM3000 meter.



SWR: CH1= 1:1; CH40= 1.15:1 w/ amp in-line and off (all #s below done on ch 19a)

Radio Power: Set on high; 2W DK, swinging to about 25W PEP (note difference between Bird and Cherokee)

Amp on Minimum Output, Engine 2000 RPM: 10W DK, swinging 400W PEP (w/ a whistle)

-- Voltage drop from 14.1 to 14.0

Amp on Maximum Output, Engine 2000 RPM: 450W DK, swinging 700W PEP (w/ a whistle)

-- Voltage drop from 14.1 to 13.8

Currently Running 1/2 way between Min and Max: 110W DK, swinging 500+ PEP

(I did switch over to SSB and keyup @ last setting for shits and grins... voltage drops to about 13.5 (noticable difference) & I didn't pay that much attention to power.)



<span style="text-decoration:underline">My Questions to the All-Knowing Ones</span>

1) For normal, everyday talking: Is my 110/500+ power setting optimal (or at least close enough)? Should I turn the amp power up? down?



2) Would their be any benefit to turning the radio down (starting at .5W carrier) and amp at full power, then adjust the radio power up to get the 1:4 ratio? Will this result in any difference than the way I have it configured above (radio on high)? (I know most recommend a 2W radio DK, that's why I kept that constant.)



3) Aggitator Mode: When a couple of the local aggitators start playing the "smacked" game, for ultimate re-smacking ability, should I turn the amp to full power 450/700W... or leave as is (1:4)?



4) How do these numbers compare to other radio/4-pill combos you've seen. Am I doing OK?


</p>
 
Re: Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendat

I can guarantee that your voltage is dropping more than you think. You also need to upgrade the wire from the battery to the alternator. Just add a larger one. You do not need to replace the existing one. That way you can remove it later and the stock one will still run the truck. That paerticular amplifier draws over 100 amps and 90% of all factory alternators are obver rated. That amplifier draws at least 20 more amps then the X-400 because of the bias scheme.

If you have any more questions you can email me.



mr_peakaboo@hotmail.com


notchoke.gif
-=PEAKABOO=-</a></p>
 
Re: Bench Racing: 2950/Joker/Wilson5k Review and Recommendat

I can guarantee that your voltage is dropping more than you think. You also need to upgrade the wire from the battery to the alternator. Just add a larger one. You do not need to replace the existing one. That way you can remove it later and the stock one will still run the truck. That paerticular amplifier draws over 100 amps and 90% of all factory alternators are obver rated. That amplifier draws at least 20 more amps then the X-400 because of the bias scheme.

If you have any more questions you can email me.



mr_peakaboo@hotmail.com


notchoke.gif
-=PEAKABOO=-</a></p>
 

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