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best recieving 10 meter radio

Mudfoot said:
Facebook dude says his works FB on latest firmware. I was stoopid for selling my HLA-150, really stoopid. I have my RM Italy 10 meter Amp that will look pretty sitting on top. Mike, have you heard any other mics that work? That big clunker that it comes with looks annoying.
Click to expand...

Don't worry about the mic for now either! It is handy to have some controls off the radio as the buttons take a bit of getting used to.
The radio takes a bit of getting used to.
Once you feel familiar with everything after a day or so then make changes.
I have a few in mind;
remove the mars diode
change the mic cable to a flat cable and secure to bail.
Change the DC plug and wiring to something a bit stronger
Get a bail or some sort of stand.
Go portable
 
magnuman said:
Don't worry about the mic for now either! It is handy to have some controls off the radio as the buttons take a bit of getting used to.
The radio takes a bit of getting used to.
Once you feel familiar with everything after a day or so then make changes.
I have a few in mind;
remove the mars diode
change the mic cable to a flat cable and secure to bail.
Change the DC plug and wiring to something a bit stronger
Get a bail or some sort of stand.
Go portable
Click to expand...
I believe I have some flat cable. I've seen the lead mod. I'll probably replace the DC jack with power poles at the back of the unit. I ordered a bail from China. It was $4.90 with free shipping. Probably take long time to get it.

Looking forward to using it.
 
magnuman said:
Not quite that straight forward as the DC plug is embeded into the chassis and the Tamyia type plug is not that easy to source.
Click to expand...

Thats the point, to get rid if the Tamyia connector.

I did the same to my PRO III and changed out the MOLEX connector, removed both wires from the CKT board, put in a rubber grommet in the chassis hole and ran the wires with the Anderson PP thru it.

XIEGU_XPA20_c.jpg


...or you could just clip the two wires at the connector and add enuf to go thru the chassis hole .

or even a better idea, leave the Taymia connector in the hole, remove the power wires , and run new wires thru the holes in the connector (you may have to enlarge the holes with a drill.


Eazy Peasy,... and you don't even need any duct tape
pat.gif
 
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I suppose we hijacked the hell out of this thread....but....

My G90 came today. In what little time I played with it, I have to say it's pretty damn awesome. The mic isn't as bad as I thought. The power cord is horrible. Eventually, I'll dremel out an opening in the rear and place a set of Powerpoles.

The tuner is a little beast. NB needs work. Overall, if your used to most modern radios, the menu items and such are intuitive. I've yet to read the manual. I have to fab up a go box so I can take this thing out. Couple wires or a vertical = fun.

Definitely happy with it. I'll clip the goodness preventer in a few days.
 
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Mudfoot: Bob / AB5N did the upgrades to Both my ICOM mobile mics...
The reports were excellent.
"WOW you got rid of that junk mic"...nope Bob fixed it!!
HF/SSB and 2m/ SSB & FM response was much better. Can't say anything about AM usage (as I never use AM ) but would have to think it would have improved also.
He is SUPER fast turn-around on his mods.(y)
Just drop him a note letting him know yours is coming, he had mine 2 days and shipped it back out:)
All the Best
Gary
 
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He does good work. I got a used 7200 off ebay a few years back. The owner had the HM-36 sent to him for the upgrade. I still had my original Japan made HM-36 from my old 707. I mostly used that my with my Yeticom Optima. I had locals compare the two. His mic got great reports. When I sold the radio, I kept the mic. Never know when I get another ICOM. I tend to keep mics that are good.
 
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