Bonding results after 6 years

[338_MtRushmore]

I removed the bonding from my old truck that was installed in 2015.

This is under the hood, and doesn't look too bad.


These 2 are at the bottom back corners of the cab. These were internal star washers. One appears to have 4 shiny spots, and the other has none


These are at the cab mounts on the frame, and again, they don't look too great.




Now the most interesting one. This is on a flatbed and was cleaned to bare metal with some no ox id. Obviously the screw was a little crooked because its only clean on the one side. See that backwards "WG?"



After seeing this, I'm wondering if I should try something different this go round.

 

[Eldorado828]

You think some dielectric grease over the top after installation would help? Maybe some battery terminal spray?

I watched some videos of a guy repairing some bad grounds on a small vehicle once and after installing new ring terminals he used a spray over the installation but don't recall what it was.

Although not entirely the same, car audio Installs we always grounded inside of the vehicle so oxidation or rust wasn't much of an issue there.

 

[144inBama]

This is the best stuff for that type of application. Been using it for years.

https://www.sitepro1.com/resources/pdf/assembly-drawings/CP8-TB.pdf

 

[cralt]

FLUID FILM
I soak my cars in it every fall. It has the added benefit of protecting electrical connectors and connections. It will wick up open wire like that and protect the copper too.

 

[338_MtRushmore]

You think some dielectric grease over the top after installation would help? Maybe some battery terminal spray?

I watched some videos of a guy repairing some bad grounds on a small vehicle once and after installing new ring terminals he used a spray over the installation but don't recall what it was.

Although not entirely the same, car audio Installs we always grounded inside of the vehicle so oxidation or rust wasn't much of an issue there.

Based on the performance of the no-ox-id, I'd say a dab of that under the washer might make a difference. Maybe drill the hole, then add the grease? All of the threads were rusted. It might even be wise to pull a few screws to check them one a year and possibly reapply grease?

The bottom line is that K0BG's recommendation of only using a star washer is bad advice.

 

[338_MtRushmore]

This is the best stuff for that type of application. Been using it for years.

https://www.sitepro1.com/resources/pdf/assembly-drawings/CP8-TB.pdf

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pr...tenance/conductive-greases-vs-corrosion?amp=1

There have been many other real studies that show that metal particles are at best ok, and many times worse than none, especially zinc.

 

[groundwire]

All my mobile bonds have coax seal around the joint, heat lightly with hot air gun and it molds and seals 100%. Then i spray automotive clear coat on the joints, three coats. Took one off awhile back to look and it was brand new like it was just installed. It was 3yrs old

 

[338_MtRushmore]

All my mobile bonds have coax seal around the joint, heat lightly with hot air gun and it molds and seals 100%. Then i spray automotive clear coat on the joints, three coats. Took one off awhile back to look and it was brand new like it was just installed. It was 3yrs old

Do you seal both sides, or just the head?

 

[144inBama]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/conductive-greases-vs-corrosion?amp=1

There have been many other real studies that show that metal particles are at best ok, and many times worse than none, especially zinc.

That page is comparing products in a saltwater environment for boats. The nearest saltwater is 2.5 hours from me so I'm not too concerned about their "findings". I've used the stuff for years and it has always done as expected. Might not be worth a flip in a saltwater environment, don't know, never put my equipment in the ocean.

 

[338_MtRushmore]

That page is comparing products in a saltwater environment for boats. The nearest saltwater is 2.5 hours from me so I'm not too concerned about their "findings". I've used the stuff for years and it has always done as expected. Might not be worth a flip in a saltwater environment, don't know, never put my equipment in the ocean.

I live 20 hours from the nearest ocean, yet drive in salt water every winter. I would think a boat floating in sea water would be very similar to an automobile driving in salt water, but I could be wrong.

 

[groundwire]

Do you seal both sides, or just the head?

On top only. Bare metal to metal contact between strap and frame, doors etc. Then mold the sealant over the top and around the joint, then clear coat. Or paint then clear coat. I put nylon braid around the strap and heat shrink tube both sides to seal it. Looks good and keeps the strap like new as well. I will post pics after work so you can see what i am talking about

 

[144inBama]

I live 20 hours from the nearest ocean, yet drive in salt water every winter. I would think a boat floating in sea water would be very similar to an automobile driving in salt water, but I could be wrong.

We don't get snow here so I'm not bothered with that issue either. You do have a legitimate concern regarding saltwater.

 

[Mudduckmobile]

Based on the performance of the no-ox-id, I'd say a dab of that under the washer might make a difference. Maybe drill the hole, then add the grease? All of the threads were rusted. It might even be wise to pull a few screws to check them one a year and possibly reapply grease?

The bottom line is that K0BG's recommendation of only using a star washer is bad advice.

I always remove the paint with a wire brush on my drill. Remove all paint down to the metal. After all is screwed down I spray with batt. term protector. I have removed some of the bonding links and have found NO rust. Good luck.

 

[144inBama]

There's always a coat of flex seal over the bolt/screw.....

 

[Slowmover]

Based on the performance of the no-ox-id, I'd say a dab of that under the washer might make a difference. Maybe drill the hole, then add the grease? All of the threads were rusted. It might even be wise to pull a few screws to check them one a year and possibly reapply grease?

The bottom line is that K0BG's recommendation of only using a star washer is bad advice.

It’s not bad advice, it’s understanding that bonds & grounds are serviceable items with EVERY auto repair text recommending that going back to the first Kettering starter.

Removing paint to bare metal is not advisable as it gives rust a head start.

Internal/External toothed washers are best. Most contact points. See k0bg examples.


I bought all components in stainless from Grainger. Not cheap. But I don’t want the problems some create for themselves .

I’ve used either NO-A-LOX or Jet Lube SS going back 30-years. Very light coat before assembly. Pretty much wiped off. And a heavy coat of BATT Terminal Protector or similar afterwards.

Six-seven years is too long. Three years is about right assuming 30” rainfall annually. Same schedule as replacing all exterior lamps in housings (and servicing connections).

In my thread (Mobile) Puck Mount in Posts 80-83 I detailed some of how I’m doing this nowadays (BURNDY Penetrox, for example).

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