Brake noise in radio

[Greg T]

My buddy has a radio in his 2005 (i think) chevy pickup. Every time he steps on the brakes he gets a lot of hash noise in the radio. My guess is either anti-lock module or trailer brake controller. I told him how to test for them, don't know if he's done that yet. Checking to see if anyone has this issue and which one it would be.

 

[Handy Andy]

If the rear brake lights are LED it more than likely the controller in them to handle brightness and the dim.

To be sure it's not the trailer connector - you need to remove the trailer "patch cord" used to wire in the connector to match the wiring code of the trucks own wiring - then do it again.

IF no noise, the trailers connector is the one...noise otherwise, then it's the trucks own brake light regulation and controller - they are more integrated with oscillator and brightness controllers using a noisy clock - so this may b e more of the culprit but to remove all doubt, you'll have to unpatch the trailers patch cord to rehook up the brakes to be sure

 

[Big Kahuna]

My guess would be the brake booster vacuum pump as I had that issue myself in the past. As I would come up to a stop light and press on the brake it would start a whine that would last for about 3-4 seconds and then go away (even as I countined to brake). No trailer brake or LED's on that truck. Mostly it was just an issue on AM and it was never as loud on SSB. When I switched to a radio with a better NB it helped. It never really bothered me that much so I didn't try to troubleshoot it.

Anyway, that's my guess.

 

[ForestRunner98]

I never heard of stuff like this. Challenges of being mobile!

 

[Greg T]

I'm not sure if he has LED assemblies or standard incandescent. I just sent a text to find out. I already instructed him to pull the brake controller fuse and try it, then pull the anti-lock fuse, or relay and try it. I've not heard back from him yet.

 

[Handy Andy]

They didn't go full LED on all vehicles yet, but many Aftermarkets are offering the LED conversions for headlight, taillight and any auxiliary (read: you add-on) lighting. Many come with a dimming feature - like when you close the doors and the interior lighting stays on to illuminate, taps into power and runs it's own timer, changes colors - stuff like that, wires into the harness and battery - and if not routed the best way back to the loom or grounds - you can get noises..

The 2005 truck though, they don't usually have noisy stuff from regular bulbs, now if you have a "ding-dong" buzzer that sets off when you turn on the lights or if your trailers wiring harness requires a return to show the trailer is still connected - the absence of the trailer disconnect loop wire can cause the "noise alarm" you're hearing because the brakes are in full sensitivity.

Seems that China likes to make $$$ on Great "cute stuff" to have - but to work it needs a clocking function - hence the noisy results. Seen this on many semis to pickups and cars, many aftermarkets can do goofy things to the vehicle - you should have seen some of the head scratchers we had at the shop.

A lot of aftermarket stuff doesn't always get checked for proper operation amongst all vehicle or platforms they run, so it would not surprise me to know that even OEM equipment is causing this.

 

[mrgumby]

I’ve got an 2006 Gmc 1500 and I have no noise in my truck at all from any of that stuff. But it is all stock lights nothing added no leds either

 

[Greg T]

I’ve got an 2006 Gmc 1500 and I have no noise in my truck at all from any of that stuff. But it is all stock lights nothing added no leds either

Do you have a trailer brake controller?

 

[Slowmover]

I’ve got an 2006 Gmc 1500 and I have no noise in my truck at all from any of that stuff. But it is all stock lights nothing added no leds either

And in the rainy dark on the highway, no one can see you.

Incandescent became dangerous a while back.

Even ensuring 12+ Volts at every location won’t do it though it’s better.

It’ll be better you get off the road before dusk and not drive again till full sunrise.

Or solve the LED problems. Your choice.

 

[mrgumby]

Do you have a trailer brake controller?

No no trailer controller

 

[mrgumby]

And in the rainy dark on the highway, no one can see you.

Incandescent became dangerous a while back.

Even ensuring 12+ Volts at every location won’t do it though it’s better.

It’ll be better you get off the road before dusk and not drive again till full sunrise.

Or solve the LED problems. Your choice.

Way too much crack

 

[Slowmover]

Way too much crack

Nope. Professional experience of more than a half-million miles in just the past eight years. Situations you’ll never encounter. Every weather condition. (And started traveling North America & Mexico when JFK was in office).

You do as you will. If you prefer to get nailed from the rear just keep on with incandescent. It’s too dim. Today’s drivers don’t see it until too late.

And, the difference in light output for incandescent between 11.2V and 13.8V at the fixture is 50% of output (lumens). Do the research. You’ll be lucky to have 12 at the rear on a sixteen year old truck. It’s not adequate. Needs 13+

Easier to convert Marker & Stop/Turn lamps to LED than to run heavier wiring and extra grounds. (Headlamps are a wholly different matter; requires LED-specific housing). LED needs zip for voltage to be at maximum brightness.

I run a 2004 Cummins when at home. Try what I did. Go park it — let it idle — and walk more than a hundred yards behind to a location you can compare other vehicles passing with tail-lamps lit.

You wanna get popped from the rear, well, I’ve seen it more times than you have fingers & toes.

Be my guest.

 

[43315]

Nope. Professional experience of more than a half-million miles in just the past eight years. Situations you’ll never encounter. Every weather condition. (And started traveling North America & Mexico when JFK was in office).

You do as you will. If you prefer to get nailed from the rear just keep on with incandescent. It’s too dim. Today’s drivers don’t see it until too late.

And, the difference in light output for incandescent between 11.2V and 13.8V at the fixture is 50% of output (lumens). Do the research. You’ll be lucky to have 12 at the rear on a sixteen year old truck. It’s not adequate. Needs 13+

Easier to convert Marker & Stop/Turn lamps to LED than to run heavier wiring and extra grounds. (Headlamps are a wholly different matter; requires LED-specific housing). LED needs zip for voltage to be at maximum brightness.

I run a 2004 Cummins when at home. Try what I did. Go park it — let it idle — and walk more than a hundred yards behind to a location you can compare other vehicles passing with tail-lamps lit.

You wanna get popped from the rear, well, I’ve seen it more times than you have fingers & toes.

Be my guest.

Half million in 8 years, 2
5 million here, and haven't rear-ended anyone yet.

 

[Rwb]

Nope. Professional experience of more than a half-million miles in just the past eight years. Situations you’ll never encounter. Every weather condition. (And started traveling North America & Mexico when JFK was in office).

You do as you will. If you prefer to get nailed from the rear just keep on with incandescent. It’s too dim. Today’s drivers don’t see it until too late.

And, the difference in light output for incandescent between 11.2V and 13.8V at the fixture is 50% of output (lumens). Do the research. You’ll be lucky to have 12 at the rear on a sixteen year old truck. It’s not adequate. Needs 13+

Easier to convert Marker & Stop/Turn lamps to LED than to run heavier wiring and extra grounds. (Headlamps are a wholly different matter; requires LED-specific housing). LED needs zip for voltage to be at maximum brightness.

I run a 2004 Cummins when at home. Try what I did. Go park it — let it idle — and walk more than a hundred yards behind to a location you can compare other vehicles passing with tail-lamps lit.

You wanna get popped from the rear, well, I’ve seen it more times than you have fingers & toes.

Be my guest.

yep,n then meet with extremely bright headlites on a dark narrow rainy road in a big loaded truck.

 

[Rwb]

They didn't go full LED on all vehicles yet, but many Aftermarkets are offering the LED conversions for headlight, taillight and any auxiliary (read: you add-on) lighting. Many come with a dimming feature - like when you close the doors and the interior lighting stays on to illuminate, taps into power and runs it's own timer, changes colors - stuff like that, wires into the harness and battery - and if not routed the best way back to the loom or grounds - you can get noises..

The 2005 truck though, they don't usually have noisy stuff from regular bulbs, now if you have a "ding-dong" buzzer that sets off when you turn on the lights or if your trailers wiring harness requires a return to show the trailer is still connected - the absence of the trailer disconnect loop wire can cause the "noise alarm" you're hearing because the brakes are in full sensitivity.

Seems that China likes to make $$$ on Great "cute stuff" to have - but to work it needs a clocking function - hence the noisy results. Seen this on many semis to pickups and cars, many aftermarkets can do goofy things to the vehicle - you should have seen some of the head scratchers we had at the shop.

A lot of aftermarket stuff doesn't always get checked for proper operation amongst all vehicle or platforms they run, so it would not surprise me to know that even OEM equipment is causing this.

built in the land of ALMOST RIGHT