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Carl Built

At 11 meters, a wirewound higher than 1 ohm would start having significant inductance as the resistance wire is spiral wound. I'd recommend using carbon or metal film only, especially for a combiner/splitter. If a guy wants a 10 watt device there, specifically order non-inductive wirewound.
 
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I have a MFJ-264 dummy load due to arrive on Saturday. I'm not doing any more testing until it arrives.
The dummy load arrived and I was able to start some testing with it. The full configuration is radio to amp to RM Italy 27/586 500 watt low pass filter (LPF) to a Daiwa CN-901HP meter to antenna. The antenna showed a starting SWR of flat on channel 1 and 20 and maybe 1.2:1 on channel 40. I used multiple sets of brand new RG8X patch cables 2, 3 and 6 feet long.

Test a) To start out I just tested the setup as it was by connecting the dummy load to the output of the Daiwa CN-901HP meter in place of the antenna coax and tried the Anytone on 4 watts DK, 30 watts PEP on both low and high settings on both AM and SSB. None of this caused the radio to throw a fit and keep the amp latched and the radio's S-meter pegged after releasing the PTT button. I did notice that the SWR would still show about 1.2 on the radio with the dummy load. So maybe it is the antenna or the coax to the antenna or the lightning arrestor i.e. the part of the system I removed....

Test b) Next I connected the antenna coax directly to the amp instead of going through the LPF and Daiwa meter. I tested AM and SSB both low and high on channel 40 since it had the highest starting SWR of 1.2. I did notice that the SWR meter on the Anytone would bounce around a bit between 1.2 and 1.4 but the main problem did not occur. Hmm, maybe it's not the coax or the antenna or the lightning arrestor but the LPF or Daiwa... Not sure if this minor bouncing of the SWR indicates an outdoor problem or if it's a byproduct of our current weather... which is freezing rain, sleet and snow all at the same time. Another special day in NE Wisconsin.

Test c) For the next test I had the amp output into the LPF and then from the LPF to the antenna coax. Basically the only thing not inline was the Daiwa meter. I noticed when transmitting on high the SRF meter on the Anytone would sometime jump over 2 and I think every time I unkeyed the mic, the SRF meter stayed pegged and the amp latched until I turned either it or the radio off.

Test d) I basically just repeated test b) and did find that when bypassing the LPF, the SWR would go up a tiny bit when transmitting on high but it did not cause the signal when unkeying or keeping the amp latched.

The LPF was the only piece of equipment I found in my setup that would reliably cause the problem to happen with the amp on high.

Once the weather conditions are safer outside I think I will take the antenna down and see if I can get the SWR better on channel 40. In the meantime, I will run without the LPF and see how it goes.

I still need to repair the SSB modulation on the Anytone and set the bias for the new IRF520s and hope to be able to try the latter by Wednesday or so.

The LPF filter I have been using is shown below. I just remember when I was a kid I was not even allowed to use my stock 23 channel Royce CB during the evening because it caused so much RFI on on parents' TV, mainly on channels 2, 4, 7 i.e. CBS, NBC and ABC. This made me very self-conscious about doing what I can to limit impacting my neighbors. Except for one in particular that I think swiped two of my rakes.

1677531161603.png
 
I have no experience with the RM brand filter but I had a para dynamics years ago that had little affect on filtering anything at my old home. I picked up an old Bencher YA-1 low pass filter. Much higher quality unit that actually filters..
 
The dummy load arrived and I was able to start some testing with it. The full configuration is radio to amp to RM Italy 27/586 500 watt low pass filter (LPF) to a Daiwa CN-901HP meter to antenna. The antenna showed a starting SWR of flat on channel 1 and 20 and maybe 1.2:1 on channel 40. I used multiple sets of brand new RG8X patch cables 2, 3 and 6 feet long.

Test a) To start out I just tested the setup as it was by connecting the dummy load to the output of the Daiwa CN-901HP meter in place of the antenna coax and tried the Anytone on 4 watts DK, 30 watts PEP on both low and high settings on both AM and SSB. None of this caused the radio to throw a fit and keep the amp latched and the radio's S-meter pegged after releasing the PTT button. I did notice that the SWR would still show about 1.2 on the radio with the dummy load. So maybe it is the antenna or the coax to the antenna or the lightning arrestor i.e. the part of the system I removed....

Test b) Next I connected the antenna coax directly to the amp instead of going through the LPF and Daiwa meter. I tested AM and SSB both low and high on channel 40 since it had the highest starting SWR of 1.2. I did notice that the SWR meter on the Anytone would bounce around a bit between 1.2 and 1.4 but the main problem did not occur. Hmm, maybe it's not the coax or the antenna or the lightning arrestor but the LPF or Daiwa... Not sure if this minor bouncing of the SWR indicates an outdoor problem or if it's a byproduct of our current weather... which is freezing rain, sleet and snow all at the same time. Another special day in NE Wisconsin.

Test c) For the next test I had the amp output into the LPF and then from the LPF to the antenna coax. Basically the only thing not inline was the Daiwa meter. I noticed when transmitting on high the SRF meter on the Anytone would sometime jump over 2 and I think every time I unkeyed the mic, the SRF meter stayed pegged and the amp latched until I turned either it or the radio off.

Test d) I basically just repeated test b) and did find that when bypassing the LPF, the SWR would go up a tiny bit when transmitting on high but it did not cause the signal when unkeying or keeping the amp latched.

The LPF was the only piece of equipment I found in my setup that would reliably cause the problem to happen with the amp on high.

Once the weather conditions are safer outside I think I will take the antenna down and see if I can get the SWR better on channel 40. In the meantime, I will run without the LPF and see how it goes.

I still need to repair the SSB modulation on the Anytone and set the bias for the new IRF520s and hope to be able to try the latter by Wednesday or so.

The LPF filter I have been using is shown below. I just remember when I was a kid I was not even allowed to use my stock 23 channel Royce CB during the evening because it caused so much RFI on on parents' TV, mainly on channels 2, 4, 7 i.e. CBS, NBC and ABC. This made me very self-conscious about doing what I can to limit impacting my neighbors. Except for one in particular that I think swiped two of my rakes.

View attachment 62905
glad you got it figured out. see, that $100 dummy load just saved you $200 or something and a damaged amp from the shippers. anyway, get rid of that LPF. for one its a cheap cb radio thing and its garbage. theres a reason why high end LP filters are expensive, they DO handle the power they are rated for and they DO actually filter out harmonics. and secondly, in this day and age with eveything being digital and cable connected they are unnecessary. the only thing to wipe out anymore is a baby monitor or other toys like that. also vswr can and will change a little to alot due to icing, snow, water, rain etc. some antennas worse than others. do antenna work and testing when these conditions are not a factor. and lastly, swr meters in cb radios are not very accurate, the circuit is built to give a general idea of what is going on. its just a relative reading and not to be trusted for actual conditions.
 
I bet you have a weird issue like RF coming down the shield of the coax or something like that. Is the antenna a magnet mount?
If you mean the antenna I am using for the Carl Built, it's a Maco V58 up about 35 feet on a mast that is grounded and bonded to the main house ground rod. I have a 50 foot length of RG-213 connected to the antenna at the feed on one end and running to where the coax enters the house. I then have a MFJ 272 Lightning Surge Protector in line and grounded to a ground rod that is bonded to the household ground rod about 25 feet away. A 30 foot length of RG-213 runs from the lightning protector, through the wall and into the radio room in the basement.

The kaput amp is a KL503HD, pining for the fjords, resting ignominiously on a shelf in my office waiting for a white knight to fix it. It was a victim of my overexuberance pairing it with the Q5N2. Lesson learned. Once I get a bit more practice at working on this gear (I'm very new to it as you can tell), I may just try to bypass the driver and see if I can get it working. I replaced all nine mosfets with Vishay brand IRF520s from Digikey but they did not help the poor SSB audio quality (I now know these amps suck on SSB at the best of times). I did not reset any bias or do anything beside replacing the mosfets. I have been unable to find any instructions on if you need to adjust anything in the KL503HD after swapping mosfets so I am just leaving it alone. When in a hole, first stop digging.
 
If you mean the antenna I am using for the Carl Built, it's a Maco V58 up about 35 feet on a mast that is grounded and bonded to the main house ground rod. I have a 50 foot length of RG-213 connected to the antenna at the feed on one end and running to where the coax enters the house. I then have a MFJ 272 Lightning Surge Protector in line and grounded to a ground rod that is bonded to the household ground rod about 25 feet away. A 30 foot length of RG-213 runs from the lightning protector, through the wall and into the radio room in the basement.

The kaput amp is a KL503HD, pining for the fjords, resting ignominiously on a shelf in my office waiting for a white knight to fix it. It was a victim of my overexuberance pairing it with the Q5N2. Lesson learned. Once I get a bit more practice at working on this gear (I'm very new to it as you can tell), I may just try to bypass the driver and see if I can get it working. I replaced all nine mosfets with Vishay brand IRF520s from Digikey but they did not help the poor SSB audio quality (I now know these amps suck on SSB at the best of times). I did not reset any bias or do anything beside replacing the mosfets. I have been unable to find any instructions on if you need to adjust anything in the KL503HD after swapping mosfets so I am just leaving it alone. When in a hole, first stop digging.
Clamp some ferrites on the coax under the antenna right at the feedpoint. 3-7 should do it. I never had lunch with the air wound coax coil balun. You could also try a 1:1 balun but that costs money. Ferrite is cheaper.
 
Clamp some ferrites on the coax under the antenna right at the feedpoint. 3-7 should do it. I never had lunch with the air wound coax coil balun. You could also try a 1:1 balun but that costs money. Ferrite is cheaper.
Palomar has a kit for it.theu used to anyway.

 
I would pound a ground rod in below the antenna and get it off the house ground.
Initially I did have the antenna and mast it is mounted on going to its own ground rod right at the base of the mast but then my understanding became that this was possibly causing a ground loop or some other issue/concern and that I needed to have this second ground rod bonded to the main house ground rod that is about 20 feet away, which is what I did. Now the ground rod for the antenna/mast is bonded to the main house ground as is the ground strap that leads from the bonding bar (that I have the radio, amp, etc connected to with copper braid in my radio shack aka my office) to the outside ground rod.

So as not to further pollute this Carl Built thread, the gory details of my station setup are in this thread. Like with the amps, there are multiple mistakes/missteps as I am learning the ropes.

It's entirely possible I misunderstood the recommendations on how to configure the grounds.
 

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