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Cobra 138 XLR protection diode replacement

Big Kahuna

Sr. Member
Jul 31, 2008
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Believe D54 is the protection diode. Test on multimeter shows some voltage for a second than quickly drops to zero.

Original parts list on D54 shows Diode SRIK-2 and from a google search looks to be a 1A 600V, can anyone confirm? Use a 1N4005?

Radio powered on dim then died upon key up so suspected the diode.

Thank you!

 

There may have been a reason to use a part like that, but in history, that the condition they expected it to be possibly put in, nowadays, no longer exists...

Here's another way to look at error is schematics and their ways of getting people hurt, if not electrocuted.

upload_2021-1-29_1-42-27.png
Above is a 138XLR...
However, better clarity...​

upload_2021-1-28_21-56-53.png
The Above is a Cobra 135 XLR - it too, uses a typical "Spike reverse polarity" diode but notice the parts and how they are connected AROUND it...

Again, a closer look...
upload_2021-1-28_22-3-19.png


The radios - to obtain an UL rating, had to survive certain conditions - including what was called a Hi-Pot test...

Hi Pot means Hi Potentials. They didn't want operators getting killed when they decided to put up antennas, or use bad house wiring or poorly grounded system - from feeding back into ground thru the best lowest ohmic route possible - Bags of Water - often called Humans - that can turn into a great carbon trial just for this purpose.

Your 138 doesn't show this ,but that era, it shows in the level of Hi-Pot protection - so they could at least list on the schematic that they have placed a hi-voltage device in an area to protect from high-voltage and the user from becoming a Ground rod from it...
upload_2021-1-28_22-24-12.png
Even the 139 BASE shows this part...

The 139 BASE radio from Cobra - proves this "idea" - because they are possible to be operated in specific conditions of Positive Ground ignition systems - at least the Mobiles could.

When you "mis wire" a CB to a Positive Ground ignition system, the CASE has 12 volts on it, it's not grounded it live. IT's wired backwards, so the protection diode is designed to pop the fuse - and if a high voltage was on it, the typical 1N4007 Diode may not survive the biasing condition (PIV rating) to keep blowing the fuses until the condition was cleared - hence the reason for that voltage retied part...

Same for Base radios using insulated chassis system...

The Ground at the antenna - versus the potential at the radio - can exceed the 12 volts these radios can run on. When they are insulated chassis - you may or may not realize that if you touch the unit and your seated in say a chair, but the table is metal - your arm can become a conductor to ground the radio to the table. Can be painful, if not lethal. Only works if the Table is grounded or touching a wall plate that is grounded.

It may sound laughable now, but back then UL labs was pretty strict on making radios and other Electronics, safer than previous generations of products that wasn't safe, because enough was not known earlier - to prevent the tragedies - which brings us to today, being that we will never see these dangers practiced as long as we follow directions.

It's the "Follow Directions" part, that scares the h*ll out of me...
 
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We use a 6A10, a 6 Amp rectifier. A bit larger than the factory part. Soldering it directly across the lugs inside the power socket serves to protect the chokes and wires between the socket and the circuit board.

Got in the habit of doing this for slip seaters decades ago. They would be fumbling in the dark with two gator clips and two posts on the doghouse. Polarity markings had been rubbed off 100,000 miles back. We nicknamed this "Edison Roulette".

The 6 Amp diode let the guy blow a 2 or 3 Amp fuse without damaging the radio, turn the clips around the right way and get back on the air right now. Before long it just became shop policy to upgrade that diode on every mobile radio we service. Don't know if we gave Galaxy Radios the idea or not, but they began doing this in the mid-1990s.

The 1-Amp diode is a one-time protector against reversing the wires. The 2 or 3 or more Amps it takes to trip the fuse will melt it down inside, causing it to fail as a short. Radio won't work until it gets changed out. Just trips the fuse no matter which way the polarity is connected.

Or (shudder) just clipped out.

A diode rated for more than the fuse size has a chance to survive the surge needed to pop the fuse.

Had one other bit of advice for Joe Slip Seater back in the day. If he wanted to try a "guitar player fuse", cigarette-pack foil around the blown fuse, don't drape the power cord over your pants. The radio won't become a 'secondary' fuse and protect the cord from melting and flaming.

And setting your pants on fire. Literally.

73
 
We use a 6A10, a 6 Amp rectifier. A bit larger than the factory part. Soldering it directly across the lugs inside the power socket serves to protect the chokes and wires between the socket and the circuit board.

Got in the habit of doing this for slip seaters decades ago. They would be fumbling in the dark with two gator clips and two posts on the doghouse. Polarity markings had been rubbed off 100,000 miles back. We nicknamed this "Edison Roulette".

The 6 Amp diode let the guy blow a 2 or 3 Amp fuse without damaging the radio, turn the clips around the right way and get back on the air right now. Before long it just became shop policy to upgrade that diode on every mobile radio we service. Don't know if we gave Galaxy Radios the idea or not, but they began doing this in the mid-1990s.

The 1-Amp diode is a one-time protector against reversing the wires. The 2 or 3 or more Amps it takes to trip the fuse will melt it down inside, causing it to fail as a short. Radio won't work until it gets changed out. Just trips the fuse no matter which way the polarity is connected.

Or (shudder) just clipped out.

A diode rated for more than the fuse size has a chance to survive the surge needed to pop the fuse.

Had one other bit of advice for Joe Slip Seater back in the day. If he wanted to try a "guitar player fuse", cigarette-pack foil around the blown fuse, don't drape the power cord over your pants. The radio won't become a 'secondary' fuse and protect the cord from melting and flaming.

And setting your pants on fire. Literally.

73
Interesting I’ll remember that for future repairs for sure. I have all of the 1A varieties here so I’ll do it the standard way on this one but might have to order some of those 6A.

I use Anderson power poles to dummy proof my life. Haven’t had a reverse polarity issue personally in years!

Thank you Robb, Andy and Nomad for the replies!
 
Replaced protection diode but that ended up not being the issue - strange the way the original one tested but anyways traced the issue to the volume on/off pot was going bad. Pulled one from a old parts Cobra 29 and back up and running.
 
Replaced protection diode but that ended up not being the issue - strange the way the original one tested but anyways traced the issue to the volume on/off pot was going bad. Pulled one from a old parts Cobra 29 and back up and running.

???

So then I went back to the Original post...

Radio powered on dim then died upon key up so suspected the diode.

TO me this would have been more of a large cap getting ready to explode - starts by the gassing moment then BANG - seen them implode too, as in launched straight up - Sleeve et.al - leaving the legs still soldered to the board.

Thought you wanted more info on the Diode being what it is...SIGH - Alas...

Want my job?

No pay, lousy wages, listen to hearing Wife grinding axe for late night fixer-uppers...

I could go on...

If you need a referral - use this post...:)
 
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