Ok, now you're moving ahead!
You will need a mounting kit for that TO-220 style MOSFET part, you can't avoid this - it has to be an insulator washer in there...
[ATTACH=full]42839[/ATTACH]
Don't worry - don't sweat the small stuff, the effort I'm putting in this thread is for LEGACY purposes.
You don't see someone taking apart a radio to the point of where the CAGE that mounts the Driver and Final is even discussed. In some efforts of doing upgrades, this removal and reinstall of that assembly in a necessity to make the transition or conversion successful. I have not seen too many discussions of the physical aspects of this effort even mentioned - seems that many presume that others know how and won't bore others with the details.
- I haven't seen too many posts about removing a key piece of support, and when you're a Tech - it's usually easier to take the parts off when it's cage is free in your hands.
This method from Cobra and Uniden - that Cage-style of install, works well. JMO to me it's the easier work - for working on the side panel and rear panel mountings of the heavier Galaxy, 148's Grants and Midland Realistic amongst the other brands - the slinging or having to simply put the radio into a cradle to hold it so you have access to the tops and bottoms of where the device goes, many Techs have done up test bench "jigs" to handle the standard sizes and use cloth rags onto formed vinyl gel pads to keep the scratches to a minimum.
- For some they don't have a "Bench", more like a platform table that allows 360 degree access to every spot on the radio within simple reach.
This removal is allowing you the Flexibility to remove and install the parts back onto the cage and then once done, the hard part is simply aligning and reseating the Cage into correct spot so parts aren't crushed or otherwise left to short against the sides. The slots and holes are pretty much a gimme' - the alignment effort and if needed - rebending of it's angles to keep the Cage and the parts on it from shorting together once installed and soldered - that's the hard part.
So as you (or this applies to anyone) work thru, I presume people have a knack, or way or some methodology to take the parts laying on the bench and putting them in there to rebuild, replace or repair a key section of the radio.
- I've beaten myself up many times for not realizing that there are other ways to do things and sometimes even the efforts I use are not the most precise nor are they the best approach to fixing. So as I help you, your feedback - helps me do my job better for the next time.
So since you have suffered at the bane of the MOSFET conversion - the job is easier if you remove the cage to help you obtain access, remove, clean, mount, align, reseat and tighten the parts on it - and then you also have the ability to inspect and TEST the cage for proper isolation and insulation from and that they don't short to each other.
The install of the parts on the cage, to verify the parts on it, are correctly mounted, and when installed, you just resolder and replace and tighten the screws. This step I thought everyone did, doesn't always mean that everyone does it this way.
So let me know how that MOSFET conversion goes. That insulation washer - best to take it from another donor, but if you have a parts store nearby - they may have those TO-220 hardware kits and the Heat Sink goo - sure it may cost some $$$ but if it works right, the cost is worth the effort because you didn't lose the part - or have it take out the parts it supports from a bad install on power up.
The Insulator washer, and that screw being the same threaded seating that the Cage uses - this limits your selection to just a few insulator spacer washers - so if a Donor is available - hate to suggest this, but yes, one will have to go to the other...
Sorry Frankie...
[ATTACH=full]42840[/ATTACH]
