I was told on a cb group on FB that this is a Model 68, series 2Closest I can find to that pic is original Golden Eagle, Series 2. Which is separate and distinct from the Mark II.
https://stores.goldeneagleradios.com/browning-goldn-eagle-series-2-owners-manual/
Apparently from info I stumbled across here: http://www.browninglabsinc.com/collectors_guide.htm
There were two models, one with a selector switch RF gain and one with a continuously variable RF gain. So maybe the "Model B" is continuously variable like you have and the "Model A" is the switched one.
At this point I'd say don't spend any money until you talk to someone at Barkett's or another place knowledgeable about these and get that confirmed.
Thanks for the infoClaims to be the receiver schematic:
http://www.oldtuberadio.com/data/Browning Labs/Browning_68R-ModelB_Schematic.pdf
Not having much luck finding anything on the transmitter.
Thanks for any info you can provide...Pretty sure I have schemos for both 68T transmitters at work. But I'm at home, so it will be later. Got it on a CD Rom decades ago.
73
Thank you nomadradio for this information...Never did memorize which one was series A and which is series B. Just remember them by how the little neon lamp is marked, either "TX" or "Spot".
This one is marked "Series 1" on the ROM, and has the "Spot" label under the light.
View attachment 48612
And here's series 2, marked "Tx".
View attachment 48613 View attachment 48612
View attachment 48613
With any luck they'll blow up to full size.
73
I am also wondering if they make metal replacement knobs for this radio. Mine are plastic and starting to crack because they have to be tightened pretty tight to keep them for slipping...Thank you nomadradio for this information...
Thanks nomadradio, guess I'll deal with what I have for now...The black plastic knobs from an earlier radio held together better than the brown ones. They're famous for simply cracking open. I have seen a video showing a method to glue them back together with JB Weld. Requires filling in the voids of the old knob with the resin and clamping it together firmly while the resin cures.
The gold-anodized aluminum knobs used on the Mark 3 and 4/4A would look okay, but a set of those won't be cheap. Alco, the company who made those, doesn't sell them any more.
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