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Grounding Straps

thetnhillbilly

Active Member
Jun 28, 2006
107
1
26
Tennessee, U.S.A.
First, I apologise for my ignorance, but I won't learn without asking, so:

I want to do some bonding my car and am wondering where to get some grounding straps. Around here it seems auto parts stores only have round wire, no flat braid.

Also some advice would be appreciated. For example, what to do first (gives the best results) and what doesn't. I hear a person could drive themselves crazy trying to bond everything, I'm just looking for a good start.

Finally, can someone explain ground loop to me. I have read some explanations, but can't think it into real world practice. My understanding is that we want everyting grounded to a central point, but also keep the ground straps short. If my frame is my central point, how can I bond the trunk there while keeping the strap short, I can't. So would bonding the trunk to the body and the body to the frame be a ground loop? Obviously I'm confused, help.
 

thetnhillbilly,
Lots of differing ideas of the 'right' way to ground something, but it all amounts to the same thing. The idea is to make everything 'connected' to the frame, or some other point that's common to 'everything'. A ground strap does not have to be a flat strap. Wire will work just fine, or just a plain old bolt clamping one thing to another. The 'wider' the strap, or larger the wire, to some practical point, the better.
A ground loop means that current can 'circulate' through multiple grounds causing even more noise. Connecting everything to one place (frame) minimizes that. Fender to door to trunk lid and ~then~ to ground makes for a 'path' that current can circulate in, sort of. Just depends on how much current is induced by RF, and other sources. Big 'negatives' or 'positives' always look for the greatest 'opposite' polarities so it isn't as simple as it sound sometimes. (Confused yet?)
What to do first? Connecting all the 'surface' panels of the vehicle to the frame (makes sort of a shield for stuff under thge panels. Make sense, sort of?) After that, it's just more of the same till you get sick and tired of the whole thing. At some point there won't seem to be any 'improvement' about reducing noise, even a little bit. That's when you might as well quit. Unless you're having fun at it, and then it just means you're crazy. If you ground something and it seems to make the noise worse, unground whatever it was. (Not exactly impossible, just not very likely. Still possible though.)
Some things that appear to be grounded to the frame really aren't. Best example I can think of are some shock absorbing bumpers. There are also metal coverings for the real bumper and it doesn't hurt to ground those @#$ things too.
When it gets to the point where you wish you hadn't started all of this, quit. You can always go back and add more later, when it isn't such a P.I.T.A. ...
- 'Doc
 
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In bonding the various pieces of metal in your car to one another, you're making it "look like" one solid, continuous sheet of metal for the antenna to work against. Flat pieces of metal or braid offer less inductance (and hence less inductive reactance) than round wire, but in the vast majority of cases, as 'Doc said, heavy round wire will do just fine. When you use wire, keep it straight, with no bends. And clean metal to clean metal; get rid of all the paint under the terminal. Once it's tightened, hit the area with a good coat of primer.
 
Ground in Vehicles

In the environment of the mobile antenna system many factors contribute to the radiation of an excellent RF signal, but none more than the quality of the RF ground. The RF ground represents the "unseen half" of your antenna system. The visible half is the whip or other radiating element. Failure to construct a good RF ground inhibits the efficiency of the system's radiation and can present danger to the operator through RF feedback.

In mobile installations, the chassis or body represents a ground plane: a common circuit return or reference point for your signal. The signal radiates outward from the radiating element and flows back to the radio via the ground plane. Then the polarity switches and this process reverses, back and forth, in synchronization with the transmitted sine wave.

In constructing an efficient antenna system for your vehicle always make sure that your frame or car body are at RF ground by connecting them electrically and physically with the engine block. The engine block acts like a terminal strip or "bus" for your car's electrical system: the negative terminal of the battery and all other electrical grounds are connected to it as the central meeting point. The engine, in turn, is bound to the vehicle chassis through the engine mounting bolts, though not necessarily grounded! In today's modern vehicles insulating elements, i.e., rubber motor mounts, are used to cushion vibration. At DC a solid path to ground exists, and even if this path should somehow fail, the car's body ground can act as a reserve. At RF frequencies however, an acceptable DC ground can sometimes present such a high impedance to your antenna system that it is, in effect, no ground at all!

To ensure your mobile antenna environment is at RF ground simply bind the block to the chassis with tinned C_O_P_P_E_R BRAID. (1" wide minimum, silver tinned) Use SHORT RUNS so as to AVOID introducing any INDUCTIVE REACTANCE WHICH will IMPEDE the flow of the RF CURRENT to ground. round conductors are extremely lossy and should NOT be used in any lengths, regardless of diameter.

Signs that the quality of RF ground may be lacking :

1. Difficulty or inability to tune to an acceptable SWR match with your manual or automatic antenna tuner. (Assumes you have confirmed in advance that the antenna is already resonant "off the system".)
2. Noticing a waving up and down of the SWR reading on the meter during transmitting while the vehicle is in motion.
3. Noticing that the radio is "kicking", (cutting out and turning itself off) during transmission, an indication of significant RF feedback.
4. Getting an RF "bite" on the radio equipment or code key during transmission, an indication that excessive RF energy is feeding back from the antenna system or that the system is floating above ground potential.

Remedies require a review of how your antenna system is mounted to the car, specifically :

1. Is there a good physical and electrical connection between your antenna's ground and the vehicle frame/body?
2. If utilizing the body as the ground plane is there isolation from RF ground which may be causing the RF return path to float above ground potential?
3. Do you have faulty shield connections along your transmission line?
4. Are ground loops present in your system?

Based upon your assessment of the above, take action as necessary to clean up any weak points you uncover.

Ground Loops in The Mobile Environment

In your vehicle ground loops are often unknowingly created as a consequence of frantic attempts to ground out noise sources by braiding "everything" one can think of to the nearest metal available. This is most likely when working under the hood to suppress noise in the antenna and power supply systems, but can also occur when your antenna is inadequately mounted to the frame/chassis. In reading the nature of the formation of ground loops above, you can see how, in braiding to the nearest available metal, series connections could very well have crept into your design.

Remember: if you are not at ground potential, RF currents may still be circulating within your ground system which may then be re-radiated as RF noise that can be received by the antenna system. To eliminate any loops in your ground, the concept of applying a centralized ground point as for a home station applies to the mobile configuration as well. In adopting a single point for your vehicle, use the frame/chassis as your "ground stake", if you will. It is the common metal to all other metal points of your vehicle, and provides an excellent ground plane for your vertical element to work against.

Automotive RFI
Large body sheet metal surfaces can float above RF ground if they are electrically insulated by rubber body and engine-cushioning devices designed to absorb road noise, rattles and vibration.
As a result, RF currents can be encouraged to circulate on your hood, trunk, quarter-panels or other body surfaces which can act as small antennas, re-radiating noise signals from the ignition system and associated components.

To solve the problem, follow the steps :

1. Bonding body sheet metal parts to ground by utilizing a 1" wide tinned flat C_O_P_P_E_R braid, connect the :
* Hood and trunk lid to car frame (chassis);
* Exhaust system (at several points along the length of the system) to the frame;
* Bumpers (metallic) to the frame;
* Engine block to the frame.

2. Shielding the spark plug wires.

3. Shielding the distributor and/or ignition module with aluminum foil.
 
...and do yourself a favor and don't use braid. Instead, go find some copper flashing used around chimneys, and other places. Or, even better, some other weldable metal flashing (just means it isn't aluminum, sort of). Cut the flashing into some suitable length width and just don't worry about it, it really isn't that big'a'deal. Wanna 'tin' it? Then 'tin' it. Don't feel like it? Then don't. Just make sure the connections are good. And since it's more than likely a dis-simular metal kind of connection, seal it. Then again, that 'C' word kind of metal connected to a car's body is a dis-simular type connection too. WTH, seal it too.
Grounds are 'good'. Getting carried away with the whole thing is sort of silly though...
- 'Doc


Freecell,
Out of the list of 'signs that the quality of RF ground may be lacking', the only one that more than likely could be due to a bad ground is #4. The others all have other possible causes which are as likely (or more so) as the bad grounding thingy. That "may be lacking" part is sure right though. Nice 'hedge' though...
- 'Doc
 
Master Chief,
I've tried several time, but I can't get there, I get a 'timed out' notice instead. They must still be asleep. I'll try later though. Wouldn't want to give credit where it wasn't due...
- 'Doc
 
The ARRL, well, that would certainly explain the bit about the automatic tuners, wouldn't it. While I'm sure there are a few being used on '11 meters' I'm also sure I've never seen one sold for 'CB' before. Doesn't change what I said in the earlier post though (sorry freecell, you don't get the credit, and I wouldn't knowingly compare anyone to the ARRL).
- 'Doc
 
W5LZ said:
I've tried several time, but I can't get there, I get a 'timed out' notice instead.
qsl.net is the worse hosting site on the planet! I don't know why Al still bothers to host sites for free. His down time and customer service is horrible!

I'm not saying Al is a bad guy, but the hosting service is horrible!
 
Now for the part 'they' don't tell you about using braid as a ground strap. Even if it's 'tinned', the flexing can and will cause the braid to wear it's self out. That 'tinning' also doesn't provide much protection against all the pollution/acid rain/whatever that you normally have in your particular area. (And there is more than you might think. Ever though about why the wiring on most (if not all) new cars is insulated? Or why any exposed metal is either painted or coated with something now'a'days?)
I know my other posts in this thread sound like I don't think braid is such a good idea, but that's not exactly 'all' of it. A strap of some kind is a good idea. Copper isn't exactly the only metal that can be used though, and not just in 'braid' form. Even aluminum will work just fine, it's just more difficult to 'work' with because of the same thing, surface corrosion.
If it ain't one thing, it's another, isn't it? So, what's the 'cure'? The simplest answer is to coat the strap with something that will protect it from all the 'bad' stuff. The not so simple part of that is finding some coating that doesn't deteriorate when flexed. Which aside from being a little more expensive, just means one more step in the process (guess length, cut, coat, attach. Goto step one.). Using copper flashing sort of does away with that extra step (key word is "sort'of"). It'll still deteriorate but not quite as fast as braid will, depending on thickness of the flashing, and using 1/4" copper strap is really getting rediculous, right?
Not all, but most of the information found in the 'Handbook' and other places is sort of 'old'. MOst of it has been around since someone tried putting his sparkgap transmitter in his model 'T'. That doesn't mean it isn't good advice, just that it could be 'up-dated' a little bit to contend with what the world has become.
- 'Doc

PS - Wanna try an experiment? Cut a short section of copper braid, lay it near a window in your shack (that isn't totally sealed) or near where your coax goes through the wall/floor. See how long it takes to loose it's flexibility and/or to rot from atmospheric moisture/stuff. Not over night, but sooner than you might expect. Then again, it may just be Oklahoma...
(A lot of that 'stuff' comes north from Texas, you know.)
 
some people can make something so simple sound so complicated. all that needs to be done is to find some way to retard the chemical action between the oxygen atoms and the metal elements (29/Cu, 13/Al) comprising the strap material in use. without the interaction between the two oxidation and sulphation cannot occur or at the very least the process can be slowed to a crawl by comparison. this is easily and inexpensively accomplished.

a simple conductive grease lubricant with corrosion and oxidation inhibitors works nicely with c_o_p_p_e_r or the tinned braid bonding straps. it's relatively inexpensive and easy to apply. i believe that information is also contained in some of your older Amateur Radio Handbooks.

you can make your own c_o_p_p_e_r braid straps by stripping the shield from the larger types of RG feedline. typically the shield width when flattened is generally ¾" - 1". if you use lug hardware make sure that all terminals are properly soldered to the ends of the braid. (do not use crimp connectors) otherwise, allow enough extra length to lap the ends back on themselves, punch through the center of the folded ends to accomodate the connecting hardware and tin these areas only, not the entire length of the braid. you can then coat the straps with a good oxidation inhibitor lubricant such as NO-OX-ID or similar product.

© 292 Radio Shop

contrary to 'Docs incessant babbling the Handbook is constantly "updated'. that's why old information is found in old books and new information is found in new books, noting that books are not the only source of useful information and that old information is not necessarily of no use. for the most recent release of the 2007 handbook check out the following link:

http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/08/23/1/?nc=1
 
If you had paid attention you would have seen that it wasn't 'simple' oxydation, or sulfation I was talking about. Too bad obfuscation isn't as easily cured as oxydation...
- 'Doc
 

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