Help me choose a nice straight key

[Moleculo]

I've been seriously thinking on brushing up on code and purchasing a nice straight key. I've never owned a key of any type. I was actually thinking of a iambic paddle since I don't have a lot of room on my table, but everything I've read says you need to start with a straight key.

I know nothing about what makes one key better than another. I don't want to buy a piece of junk, but I also can't afford a $400 key, either. When I saw the Begali Blade at Dayton, I was blown away by the fit and finish, but again...I know nothing. BTW, here's a pic of that key:

They don't give the dimensions, so I'm not even sure if something like that would be practical on my cramped space.

Anyway, suggestions...advice??? Someone with some experience & knowledge please help me out.

 

[W5LZ]

Mole',
I think 'Nye Viking' made a "Classic Oval" key at one time that was probably one of the most common of the 'professional' keys. They were all brass (I think) and were made to bolt/screw onto a flat surface, desk, stand, whatever. They also had a 'shorting switch' for land telegraphy use. Nothing special to look at, but about the only way to break one was to beat it with a sledge hammer. The contacts were fairly 'hefty' because of the current/voltages commonly encountered. I learned on one and still have here somewhere. I haven't seen one advertised for sale in quite a few years, but I'd bet they still make them.
To send good Morse code you have to know what good code sounds like, you have to have listened to it for a fairly long time. You have to do that to learn and build speed with code anyway, so it isn't all that big of a deal... sort of. Duplicating that good code can be a real PITA! Basically, it's learning the 'translation' of sound into hand movements, which is just a matter of practice. And until you build up the appropriate muscles, you are going to know what sore feels like. Doesn't really matter what kind of key/bug/keyer you want to learn with, they'll all put you through the same 'sore' stages. Of any of the three basic kinds of keys, the straight key requires the most hand/wrist movement so will be the most 'work' intensive to learn with. The semi-auto (bugs) and automatic keyers are easier on the muscles. Learn with which ever you feel like learning on. They all require some 'set-up', the 'bug' more than the rest. Oh, that will be lots of fun all by it's self! It's really not that bad, but it is definitely different.

There are three brands that I like, Bencher, Nye Viking, and Vibroplex. There are a number of other brands, and quite a few of the 'custom' sort of key makers. Find one you like and play with it.
- 'Doc


Oh, forgot. If you want to use a straight key, find yourself a nice -heavy- base to put it on. They will move around if you don't.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

Mole',


Oh, forgot. If you want to use a straight key, find yourself a nice -heavy- base to put it on. They will move around if you don't.

I took a piece of birch plywood about for or five inches square and removed a good chunk of wood from the bottom side leaving the top veneer intact and filled the cavity with a couple layers of lead sheet.I made the cavity shaped so that it would not interfere with the mounting screws.I stained it with a nice wood stain and put rubber feet on the bottom. That sucker stays put.

 

[BJ radionut]

Straight Keys I like

Mole:
I have over the years owned many straight keys. I still enjoy them the best over a set of "paddles". I made some of my FD 2009 contacts on a new one I picked up last Nov. I also used a VibroKeyer (early Vibroplex paddles).
I still have some personnel favorites one being the William Nye (circa before made for Johnson/Viking version). He made the same design for them, but this version carries only his name on the label.
This has a nice solid metal base, simple adjustments and is comfortable to use.

I also have my all time FAV the LIONEL made J/37(circa WWII). There are still many of these around, they were built by several companies during the war.
The Lionel version has the big "L"(train logo) on the bottom and has a distinct "L" shaped brass strip as part of the design. I like the way this one"talks to you" while sending.

I thought I posted some pics a while back when Tony WX2MIG was looking to buy one.
I must own at least 10 to 20 different straight keys if I round them all up.

I'll post a link of one site that has many good ones. N1FM Marshal is a great guy to deal with.

You can check Ebay for many and once in a while a bargain can be found($20-$30 range) for J/36-37-38"s.
I would not get a USN "Flameproof" version right off, nice key to have but not a good use full-time key. Very collectible but not the smoothest to operate with, IMHO...

I also have a couple of "CAMEL" back keys that have a great feel and a couple of old "SpeedX"(again pre-Johnson/Viking) I like.

Well enough said...let me know if you get on...be great to work you on with a little "finger music"
All the Best
BJ
Keys, Bugs, Paddles Index

 

[WX2MIG]

My first time around with the code I had to learn it for my license. I did so on a Bencher iambic paddle connected to a cheap MFJ keyer that I eventually plugged into my 2510, and made a couple successful contacts in Poland and Russia.
The one problem I had with learning on and using the iambic paddle was I could send code much faster than I could copy it, and that caused some confusion during contacts because most experienced code jockeys will send it back as fast as you deliver it.
This time around I'm playing with the code for fun, not because I have too. The one thing I thought long and hard about was the type of key I would use to learn and get re-started on this time around. I didn't want to get back into that thing where I was sending at 10 wpm, but could only copy 5 wpm, so I figured on a straight key to slow me down, and keep pace with my ability to copy.
The key that impressed me most was the Vibroplex Straight key. You can get their top of the line gold plated base with jeweled action, the basic unit with the black base, or the limited edition "Know Code" unit like I got with the red base. Either model is built like a tank, smooth as butter, fully adjustable, and comes on a heavy base with rubber feet. Vibroplex has excellent customer service, and provides replacement contacts and parts for all their models in production, and even for the one's no longed in production.

It's the only straight key I've ever used, so I can't compare it to any other straight key out there, but I can tell you I'm happy with it......YMMV

 

[park]

Check out the Kent straight keys.

 

[Beetle]

For a straight key, I've used a J-37 for 50 years. The J-37 is identical to the J-38, but without the shorting lever. I'd recommend getting a good one of these (37 or 38), or maybe a Speed-X.

Remember, however, that a straight key is nothing more than a single-pole, single-throw switch, normally open, with a spring return. The Begali keys, the Kent keys and so many others are beautiful pieces of either art or machinery, but they are STILL SPST switches.

The guy on the other end of the QSO can't tell whether your key cost $5 or $500 and probably doesn't care. There's no reason at all, IMHO, to plunk down over $200-300 bucks for a gold-plated SPST switch.

 

[Moleculo]

All good information. Thanks all. I guess I never really thought about a key being an SPST switch, but it makes sense. It definately makes me rethink how much money I'm willing to spend!

Browsing ebay found this item:
LIONEL J-38 MORSE CODE TELEGRAPH KEY SIGNAL CORPS J38 - eBay (item 360176626949 end time Aug-09-09 19:19:09 PDT)

What do you guys think?

 

[W5LZ]

That's not a bad price at all for an old Lionel(sp) key. Did some checking and a new key such as this J-38 from 'Nye Viking' is about $60 +/-. I also have to think that hitting a hamfest or two would bring the price down quite a bit, but, whatever you think.
- 'Doc

 

[HiDef]

I like my Hallicrafters TO keyer which is hooked to a hacked bug with no weight.

 

[SR385]

I have one of the Chinese army surplus K4 keys. It's pretty solid for the $40 or so I paid. Was NOS still packed in the preservative wax paper.

I just have to get around to learning all the characters now.

If I finally do it and find I like CW, I'll be getting a Begali. They are pure artwork.

The 'key' is to adjust the spring for light tension and the gap for almost no space. Then there is almost no effort to it.

 

[Moleculo]

If I finally do it and find I like CW, I'll be getting a Begali. They are pure artwork.

I learned code and didn't enjoy it, even though it wasn't difficult for me to learn. Of course if you don't use it, you lose it. For some reason I now have the desire to do it. Why? I don't know...I can't explain it.

Those Begalit keys ARE pure artwork. I really like the idea of having and using a traditional, old style key...but some day if I find that I really do enjoy it I might have to get something like that. Seeing them in person is a lot different than the picture.

 

[SR385]

I'd like to stick to straight key. The main appeal for me is to get a solid fist on a straight key. The tradition of it holds the appeal for me.

If it was just about the digital mode I could always just use software.

One of the other reasons I'm interested is because you can make regular QRP contacts with CW. So that opens a much wider range of kit building. Lots of CW only kits.

 

[2CO3026]

VIBROPLEX

Excellent quality -- Made in the U.S.A.

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