I Want My Truck back!

[jdchet]

Alas...........my assigned truck is in the shop again! This means no radio fun and tweaking the installation fun and headaches for me. The spare truck I'm in doesn't even have a reasonable antenna system that I would trust with my box stock PC76! Driving me nuts! Adding insult to injury.......the Palomar CMNF-500HF came in the mail this week and the KLV 203 is scheduled to arrive today! AARRRGGHHH! I guess I'll have to mow the lawn twice.............
A quick question...........regarding the CMNF-500HF, would it be best to install it with a barrel connector right off the radio or is a short coax jumper acceptable?
Now maybe I could try screwing around with that Double Bazooka antenna I have lying around..............Maybe not! The 11 Meter is Quiet thread isn't very encouraging.

JD

 

[Slowmover]

I know these feelings, ha!

Have gear scattered around the storage closet I call home . . but nothin is installed.

Projects here and there being worked on.


Below is with the jarring, high-vibration environment of a big truck being considered:

As to how to connect gear I’ve done it both ways. Short jumper is easiest, but it can and will pick up noise. So, I prefer the hard line connectors & adapters (this whole question really comes down to physical layout), but one MUST be careful with them:

1). It’s easier to cross-thread them or fail to fully seat them than you’d imagine.

2). They loosen up. Always. (Use of threadlock “could” interfere with RF return).

3). If any weight is leveraged across them you may be looking at “damage” to the gear connected. (I’ve shimmed things to work).

— “Best” would be a very good quality jumper; maybe a foot. Highly-shielded.

— AMPHENOL-brand adapters (check which line thereof; quality can vary; $$$). Not truck stop or CB shop. Go online.

The adapters are higher risk.
The jumper “might” pick up noise.


If the radio once installed won’t move (period) and the area behind it is fully clear, then the PALOMAR ENGINEERS CMNF-500 could be raised on some kind of pedestal to connect with a double-female.

And the coax past that can’t leverage it once underway.


I think you get the idea — this was written with emphasis favoring the type of approach versus perfection — that carefully considering the physical strains, you ought to be alright.

I’ve used 90-degree adapters and come over the top of the radio. Slanted one direction or another. Used Velcro to attach filter to radio case. Left it all lose til confirmed where filter would go and laid case V-patch and then c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y tightened those adapators most of the way.

Then a double female to KL-203. (Also velcroed).

Now went back and loosened to be sure no strain against radio coax connector (you’ll feel it); and start over moving OUT tightening adapters from radio to filter to amp (which may need to be popped off Velcro).

Get the strain removed. All planes. Sorta shake it loose and then cinch it down.

FWIW, this always takes more than hour from start to finish in a big truck overhead console. Zero stressed work.

a). The adapters bind one to another.
b). The adapters bind in themselves.
c). The radio, filter & amp all pivot in a few planes.
d). Every combination of stress WILL occur, and ALL must have slack once done.

Expect to re-do it this way several times EVERY TIME you loosen a connector or add/remove components.

I have a (literal) bag of adapters. Half a dozen or more short to medium jumpers (1’-6’) and exact layout can be the hardest part as it’s not always obvious.

For me this was $$ trial & error: Do these other components ADD value to a radio rig?

Once I gave it a “yes”, the difficulty went down. Hard line was best shield, but maybe not enough to justify high risk AND incredibly time consuming assembly.


— IMO, a few 1’ jumpers (with 90-degree adaptors) is “best”, therefore. (Coax runs only have a big curl to them, no tight turns to strain connector).
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[jdchet]

That was my thought process. Trying to mitigate common mode wouldn't be helped by coax not filtered. Radio is mounted on factory top of dash mount so it allows for easy access. Definitely don't want to put any strain weight on coax connection to Radio. Will have to get a bit creative with how I'm going to do it! Barrel connection it is driver!

JD

 

[ForestRunner98]

I have mine connected at the radio with a 90 degree connector. It points down out the radio behind dash.

It’s pretty light so it doesn’t have much stress. At least in my 4Runner. In a truck(diesel) could be different since vibration is always. I also saw that Palomar has it connected that way.

 

[Slowmover]

Yeah, the double-female is great if filter and radio don’t move once filter secured to a riser.

Jumper from there to amp.

Main coax afterwards.

Up in the overhead it’s harder. Rack screwed to console also not easy.

It was the addition of BATT-sourced power made things more difficult in my 579 installation as preferably Power and Coax kept apart.

Power is where one wants to make the step to APP for quick disconnect + 12V Distribution.

My installs would look good to me until I had to start arranging Power + Audio overhead.

If y’all are gonna get DSP, I’d start by getting APP crimp tool + supply first. POWERWERX.

Am just trying to say that systems are easier to manage once a powered external speaker mounted remotely is going to be done.

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[jdchet]

Yeah, the double-female is great if filter and radio don’t move once filter secured to a riser.

Jumper from there to amp.

Main coax afterwards.

Up in the overhead it’s harder. Rack screwed to console also not easy.

It was the addition of BATT-sourced power made things more difficult in my 579 installation as preferably Power and Coax kept apart.

Power is where one wants to make the step to APP for quick disconnect + 12V Distribution.

My installs would look good to me until I had to start arranging Power + Audio overhead.

If y’all are gonna get DSP, I’d start by getting APP crimp tool + supply first. POWERWERX.

Am just trying to say that systems are easier to manage once a powered external speaker mounted remotely is going to be done.

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Definitely considering a Rig Runner or similar power setup. However, the reliability of my present assigned truck is giving me pause regarding improving my radio system! VERY FRUSTRATING!

JD

 

[Slowmover]

Definitely considering a Rig Runner or similar power setup. However, the reliability of my present assigned truck is giving me pause regarding improving my radio system! VERY FRUSTRATING!

JD

The 4005H (horizontal) might work well.

I’m willing to be wrong, but I couldn’t see the need to add fuses where the POS cable was already fused at BATT with a BUSSMAN termination fuse.

Thus my decision to use the POWERWERX PD-8 block as it’s compact in comparison. The bigger 75A-size mains connectors were also attractive as I used 6-AWG in a 21’ [?] circuit in the Pete.

The standard 4005 Rigrunner (I have one) takes up some room, and having to run the lines causes it to need a good deal of free air space around it.

The “H” model makes it easier to package with radio gear, IMO. Flat, as it were.



The aluminum TAC-COMM TRC-1 Radio Carrier is where the Rigrunner really shines, IMO — meaning “type” of application — as one can envision putting all the gear into an easily dismounted arrangement. I’ve one of these and two of the larger TRC-2. One could have one on the truck dash with a fabric cover to match (hide in plain sight), and easily stow it away with APP making quick work of everything except coax where the 4005H is exterior-mounted.


I’ll be using the TRC-1 for the Linc in my pickup (give some protection). The KL-7505V will go in a TRC-2 under the rear seat (same reason). “Guarantee” the minimum airspace around each.

The main run power run is to the Amp under the backseat and would then be split at a Palomar Engineers RFI-DC-30 to the Amp and to the 4005 (power then sent to two separate locations for DSP or Radio).

Keep all fuses in one place. A sub-panel arrangement.

Was looking at 2 to 6-AWG and then 6-AWG to 10-ga BURNDY reducers earlier. Another $30 or so (that 12V filter uses 10-AWG wiring; which will just sorta work into that 4005 and then forward to radio by 5-6’ more feet).

Point to this extra in your thread about my pickup radio rig is that the accessorial costs add up faster than I expect.

A). Long run from BATT. Have to keep to .04 Volt Drop at TX (3%).
B). 12V Filter + Distribution panel have to have downsized wiring versus main run.
C). BURNDY Reducers ain’t cheap. May have to do it in two (2) steps as well.

So, “smart” or not I opted to buy the PD-8 as I could run 6-AWG straight into it, and anything sufficient out of it.

4005H + (2) Reducers = $100
PD- 8 (no reducers needed) = $45.

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[Slowmover]

I have mine connected at the radio with a 90 degree connector. It points down out the radio behind dash.

It’s pretty light so it doesn’t have much stress. At least in my 4Runner. In a truck(diesel) could be different since vibration is always. I also saw that Palomar has it connected that way.

Pony up for genuine AMPHENOL if you haven’t already (90-degree). You’ll immediately notice the difference in quality.

AMPHENOL RF 83 1AP Right Angle UHF Coaxial Adapter. (About $20)

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[Eldorado828]

Pony up for genuine AMPHENOL if you haven’t already (90-degree). You’ll immediately notice the difference in quality.

AMPHENOL RF 83 1AP Right Angle UHF Coaxial Adapter. (About $20)

.

I've looked everywhere for those at a lesser cost but haven't been very successful. I've used these and seem to be ok

https://www.ebay.com/itm/150944024336

But still prefer the amphenol hands down

 

[jdchet]

I've looked everywhere for those at a lesser cost but haven't been very successful. I've used these and seem to be ok

https://www.ebay.com/itm/150944024336

But still prefer the amphenol hands down

I'm considering the DX Engineering connectors. The coax I bought from them had their connectors and they seemed to be of good quality. At less than half the price of Amphenols I probably will give them a shot. Plus they're just down the road from me!

JD

 

[Slowmover]

I'm considering the DX Engineering connectors. The coax I bought from them had their connectors and they seemed to be of good quality. At less than half the price of Amphenols I probably will give them a shot. Plus they're just down the road from me!

JD

In the big truck cheap s^*+ ain’t worth taking the chance.

I’ve had a few heart-stop moments on finding that bargain stuff come apart (“Looks like”)

I use colored electrical tape. If an adapter has yellow tape on it it’s the first string stuff.

My recommendation to SoCalifornio is that he’s only using one. And he ain’t as dumb as us truck drivers always taking things apart. One and done.

DX-E for 1’ jumpers and a pair of AMPHENOL 90’s is how I did it.

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[jdchet]

Well.............gave up on the Volvo! I guess I didn't make the cut for one of the new Volvos, which I'm cool with, so they convinced me to take this 2019 Cascadia! The Volvo I had just loved being in the shop! This truck has been trouble free, so far, and had a good driver, who made the cut, in it! Our mechanic at my terminal highly recommended this truck to me, and he hates Freightliners! So.........we'll see!
Now I gotta start from scratch on the radio system! Luckily many vids and forum posts regarding these trucks so I'll have some info to go with!

JD

 

[Handy Andy]

I think you'll like the Cascadia, I ran Internationals - and in your own words, you summed up my experience with Volvo (Hint : Logo as... ♂ and ♀ ) depending on how you approach the subject.

 

[jdchet]

I think you'll like the Cascadia, I ran Internationals - and in your own words, you summed up my experience with Volvo (Hint : Logo as... ♂ and ♀ ) depending on how you approach the subject.

I liked the Volvo! Hate having to move into a spare truck every other month! This truck does ride better and is alot quieter inside! Also doesn't have "clown shoes" on the drives! Real tires and they're new virgins. This truck does have all the "nanny" stuff but that’s the way company trucks are going from now on!

JD

 

[Slowmover]

Easiest brand/model to do an install.