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MOBILE INSTALL: 579 Peterbilt

Redbeard U812 said:
I'm sure you will be logging alot of miles. Trump rescinded the 1938 law restrictions concerning OTR driver road time in order to expedite goods and needed supplies. You can drop that second log book for a spell.
Click to expand...


E-logs ain’t a bad thing. Company can’t push you around as much. And, I don’t miss running three log books (shit, which one am I on right now) unless the loads really pay well.

The problem in dropping log rules is having a slow truck.

I’ve no desire to run more hours. But $$ talks and I can make a Pete do the walk . . . with no governor and the power turned up (top end plus acceleration). (Dealer software).

For those unacquainted, it’s in getting the Average MPH higher.
Total Miles divided by Hours Driven. Getting that up above 60-mph is harder than you’d think.

Some regions it’s easy. Some, it’s nigh impossible.

Momentum is the thing. Getting around packs of slow-pokes is about timing. Not tailgating (less than a football field in a big truck).

If I can get it above 73-mph to pass, then it’s easy to cruise 68-mph (up to 70, you drive the truck. Above 70, it drives you). Can do that for weeks.

Need this stock radio in better condition (CMC, RFI, whatever the hell it is and isn’t). There is stuff I can hear, but not well enough. Two to Four miles is easy enough in the terrain from Texas to Florida & back as I’ve run fairly often past two months at present, but 10-15-mile Range is wanted.

These antennas (4.5’ plus location) may not give me that, but, . . . .

Maybe in morning I will yank some panels. (find the secret clips). I have with me everything I need to replace the power cables & coax cables. Ferrites, toroids and Etc. I can yank & crank radio-wise if I can get it all installed.




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Thought I’d work in a 34-reset (time off). But another driver ran short of hours so I got his load delivered.

Then my load (next day) got screwed up. Outbound not ready as the inbound load was still onboard.

Another was ready, but no one could reach the original assignee.

But at least I ain’t one of the forty (!) Schneider drivers sitting bobtail in the parking lot at that DC (distribution center)

Not enough time to start pulling things apart in interior.

I get home later this week I think I’ll toss in the pair of Wilson 2000’s I’ve had since oilfield day’s. Different length stingers and risers. May wind up being too tall no matter what combination I try except stock, but at least I can get to them to adjust. (And I now know my cheapie SWR meter is “good enough”).

Originally a 4.5’ antenna (same as the the Quad Wraps currently installed).
5” lower shaft with a 49” stinger.

Wilson packaging info says trim approx 1.5” from stinger with a 10” shaft at about Ch 20.

Already planned to make some more braided weave RF grounds once home.

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Slowmover said:
But at least I ain’t one of the forty (!) Schneider drivers sitting bobtail in the parking lot at that DC (distribution center)
.
Click to expand...

Glad to see you NOT stuck with $$$-WiFi at some seedy Truck Stop...

When I was on the road - I saw a lot of Drivers simply idle - not even accepting loads. Almost as if it was "constant break" or they had to serve some type of "punishment" from HOS violations...
  • Reminded me to be thankful that I DID have a slow truck. Or at least I had something to do.
They were on EBT - getting a free lunch...SIGH...My toils in taxes were paying their meals...

And all they did was cuss on the channel at anyone whom simply called out for local info.

You were one of the lucky ones.

Went back a few pages - slow news day - found one of your shots showing your Quad wound - I remember these as being called "Tiger - Tail" antennas - due to the "stripe" effect the winds appear in the loading.
I like those antennas - wish I had my original set - but alas - that "polyethylene" shrink wrap sleeve protecting the coils fails miserably in Michigan winters and the salt-shaker spray...

Anyways...back to the news I have for you...
If this is OEM -

upload_2020-3-24_8-1-16.png​

Then one of your biggest problems if getting, making and maintaining an RF ground on that mount.

I've seen these and people at the shop have worked on them.

Wanted to leytyou know that the OEM versions of RF ground are not the most ideal...

Can you take that plastic cover off - gently pry it up to see what is underneath?

Because the sooner you do, may be better for you.

The main issue was with sealing - it "attaches" thru a crimp type method - and if you've whacked enough trees - the seal will fail and develop a "Drip" which then collects into a messy corroded mess on the top of the door frame sill.
  • - I've attached a similar mount we used to order from the shop to show how the effort works for us.
  • The Noise issue was common, and once the old mount was removed and the damage fixed, the newer mounts did work to provide quieter receiver performance.
  • You had to replace the coax too - which isn't a big deal but not a comfortable one for the one(s) that drew the Short Straw...
th
  • You have to do both sides to obtain the best results. Some drivers didn't and regretted it for they had to pay for the Boss' labor surcharge 2X - instead of once.
The noise? Well, it looks by what I've seen - its the proximity of the Door frame clamp - the QUALITY of the clamp (some used Jumper) that makes the difference in arriving to a ground versus a good RF ground. The Door frame is part of the COUNTERPOISE that mount needs. Your SWR levels seem ok, and to help - if you can take one of the antennas and see if it will tune ok on a mobile single antenna system on a car then the problem is back at the Mount - not a simple task to swap out.

Not sure if you looked into that for a do it yourself or if its' a "Gotta' let the Boys at the Terminals' shop do this warranty work." sort of thing.
 
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Handy Andy said:
Glad to see you NOT stuck with $$$-WiFi at some seedy Truck Stop...

When I was on the road - I saw a lot of Drivers simply idle - not even accepting loads. Almost as if it was "constant break" or they had to serve some type of "punishment" from HOS violations...
  • Reminded me to be thankful that I DID have a slow truck. Or at least I had something to do.
They were on EBT - getting a free lunch...SIGH...My toils in taxes were paying their meals...

And all they did was cuss on the channel at anyone whom simply called out for local info.

You were one of the lucky ones.

Went back a few pages - slow news day - found one of your shots showing your Quad wound - I remember these as being called "Tiger - Tail" antennas - due to the "stripe" effect the winds appear in the loading.
I like those antennas - wish I had my original set - but alas - that "polyethylene" shrink wrap sleeve protecting the coils fails miserably in Michigan winters and the salt-shaker spray...

Anyways...back to the news I have for you...
If this is OEM -


Then one of your biggest problems if getting, making and maintaining an RF ground on that mount.

I've seen these and people at the shop have worked on them.

Wanted to leytyou know that the OEM versions of RF ground are not the most ideal...

Can you take that plastic cover off - gently pry it up to see what is underneath?

Because the sooner you do, may be better for you.

The main issue was with sealing - it "attaches" thru a crimp type method - and if you've whacked enough trees - the seal will fail and develop a "Drip" which then collects into a messy corroded mess on the top of the door frame sill.
  • - I've attached a similar mount we used to order from the shop to show how the effort works for us.
  • The Noise issue was common, and once the old mount was removed and the damage fixed, the newer mounts did work to provide quieter receiver performance.
  • You had to replace the coax too - which isn't a big deal but not a comfortable one for the one(s) that drew the Short Straw...
th
  • You have to do both sides to obtain the best results. Some drivers didn't and regretted it for they had to pay for the Boss' labor surcharge 2X - instead of once.
The noise? Well, it looks by what I've seen - its the proximity of the Door frame clamp - the QUALITY of the clamp (some used Jumper) that makes the difference in arriving to a ground versus a good RF ground. The Door frame is part of the COUNTERPOISE that mount needs. Your SWR levels seem ok, and to help - if you can take one of the antennas and see if it will tune ok on a mobile single antenna system on a car then the problem is back at the Mount - not a simple task to swap out.

Not sure if you looked into that for a do it yourself or if its' a "Gotta' let the Boys at the Terminals' shop do this warranty work." sort of thing.
Click to expand...


I’ll take more time with this in a future post. Am headed in the direction of home finally.

There “appear” to be two versions of this type of external factory antenna mount. One is seen on some FREIGHTLINER Cascadia models (mid-roofs) sort of where sleeper and cab meet.

The Peterbilt one seems more “stout”. Above cab doors.

The former (observed in passing) is narrower as it comes outwards from the truck. The Pete version is wider.

May change nothing you’ve written. I’ll make notes from your post and clic a pic or two.

The backside (interior) IS bonded to metal with a nice-looking braided weave jumper according to what I saw in the video mentioned above.

Doesn’t mean it can’t be bettered (wider & shorter jumper with star washer; etc). Then, your prescription.

I’ve taken the radio & associated gear in & out a few times (harder than it looks) and seem now to have gotten “wiring antagonisms” to the best place yet. Routing, is what I’m referring to.

Made the turn west from Jacksonville onto IH10. The Panhandle is pretty quiet. Am picking up skip to some extent at 1300 local. Am able to run the UNIDEN 980 with RF Gain maximized & Squelch turned off on AM-19 if I desire. No ANL. Not dead quiet, but tolerable for long periods.

Or, with about a quarter-turn of Squelch, can get the SCAN function operative on AM or SSB. (No NB). Until latest wiring re-route, had to turn in enough Squelch for SCAN to function it was almost worthless except late-night and in quite a rural locale.

Have also added snap ferrites (4) to both power & audio cables on the WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO CLEARSPEAKER and that’s helped with clarity. The speaker needs longer versions of each cable to better work with the locations of itself & the radio for both neatness and avoiding interference.

.
 
These antennas (PRO-COMM “Quad Wrap”) are sold as being broad-banded. The quality is nice. I probably have 50k miles on them. One has a bit of a lean-over that the other doesn’t.

As above I intend to try the WILSON 2000s I have at home once there. I’ve seen MANY 579s with them installed. Worth a shot.

The door frame clamp (as you’ve described it) will have my attention. I was already planning to bond both door hinges, and figured I’d better get into the door to attach a bond to the mirror mount.

Getting ABOVE the interior side of the doorframe has had me reticent to try without time. Once home I’ll have that luxury. Access the coax above it, and ANCOR 10/2 Duplex to the battery box & frame.

.
 
You know, the kids we used to have down at the shop - the "lumpers". They served three functions - with the latter two being hired hands for loading and unloading as well as the help with installs and rewires...

The rest of the time?
(Being that I'm a Quitting Smoker 10+ years from the day..)

These poor kids...on slow days, have not much to do except wait...

upload_2020-3-24_15-30-1.png
​
Did you get the Pro Comm at a T/A or were they ordered?
 
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Robert, at CLAYS RADIO SHOP. Onto a T880 when I was a tanker-yanker.

ProComm Quad Wrap
4.5’ tall top-load

I don’t think I’ve ever seen them at retail otherwise.

3DD5F7F9-B854-4BE5-93BD-3EDF856379C4.jpeg

Shaved & Shined Corona Balls from the Antenna Farm.

.
 
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Slowmover said:
Robert, at CLAYS RADIO SHOP. Onto a T880 when I was a tanker-yanker.

ProComm Quad Wrap
4.5’ tall top-load

I don’t think I’ve ever seen them at retail otherwise.

View attachment 35623

Shaved & Shined Corona Balls from the Antenna Farm.

.
Click to expand...
I like those, but I'm leaning towards the skip shooters you recommended on another thread they're priced nice. 4.5' sounds like a good height for my 880. I'm diggin the corona balls
 
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Well, . . .

Used time at home. Sorta

Trying to get into the overhead console just to install some toroids at each end of the phasing harness was one big frustration.

The tightest point was where I needed to go. Ha! Cancel that darkest Africa expedition.

The ANCOR 10/2 Duplex power cable (inside flame-resistant split loom) wasn’t so bad, but had to use a fishtape to get it past that pinch point.

(Same routing as before: Out of BATT box and follow other DC to firewall. Then into firewall at air line panel. This time, up the A-pillar. A job that by itself is straightforward).

Got ANDERSON POWERPOLES on the radio end. The other is looped & secured out of the way in the BATT box. Was happy to find a BLUE SEA DC distribution block installed. That’ll be the first place I try (don’t yet know the other item hooked to it, but it’s small gauge).

The 3% Voltage Drop Calculator shows my full circuit is easily within the 10A +/- parameters needed. (K0BG shows an inexpensive clamp ammeter; have that in a shopping cart.

Didn’t pop the exterior cover on the antenna mounts. That’ll come.

Got out my circa-2012 pair of WILSON 2000s. MOJO Magic Polish followed by two coats of REJEX. Dremel wire-brushed threads and some corrosion on nuts. A light coat of JetLube SS-30 at mating surfaces.

With included 10” shafts and the 31” whips the pair are at 57” — 2.0” above their 55” height; 4.5’ as with the Quad Wraps — as also installed them onto HUSTLER QD2 SS quick disconnects.

The coils clear the roof space between them easily; room to spare.

While I might be willing to sacrifice a $30 antenna to starboard-side tree branches, not so with $75 antennas. The QDs make it easy to stop and pop them off.

The GALAXY 99v2 is now aboard. I can leave off the RM Italy amp (or not; deadkey turned to 2.5W with variable power). The console cover is too tight to fit that radio, but heat build in the console is high so I won’t be reinstalling it no matter what radio.

E80ECED5-0E96-4FFA-929A-9EB87E23A348.jpeg

Received this 4-way from DX ENGINEERING. Assume it works well will make it a standard part of what I recommend to other drivers.

1). DC Power
2). Transceiver
3). West Mountain Radio ClearSpeaker
4). RM ITALY KL 203P

- Getting anything installed this location is tight. Routing lines inside to avoid “complications “ maybe the hardest part as first time won’t get it right.

- Have enough ferrites. I think.

- Have to lengthen DSP speaker audio & power leads for a neater install. More powerples. More ferrites.

- This radio larger than what’s anticipated by Peterbilt. Lengthening the fabric Velcro strap looks easy. And Velcro underneath radio makes it do-able.

(Others have removed center sun visor to install a bracket)

Now just have to pick a time I’m not either tired or ready to get down the road and Version 2 will be operable.

And, more to come per antenna mount. Time to git.

.
 
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52B6A5FD-AC6C-4316-991C-5DC9C79AB7FD.jpeg

Here’s the Port antenna mount with snap-off cover removed.

Similar, but not same as what HA linked above.

As before, interior side of mount has a braided strap down to steel frame. (I buzzed off the paint on this one; haven’t tried to get to the Starboard).

5079D6AC-116B-4918-82A5-BA10183A7159.png

I brought along this

TOP GUN TEC
Z-Mount

but haven’t figured out how to route coax back into the cab.

The position is Starboard, using the same machine screws as the spot mirror (upper exterior door frame).

Would lower antenna height by 6” or so and bring antenna in next to body.

At least the factory cab mounts only have a few inches of body next to them.

This mount makes it a foot, easily.

To have the coil clear the body would need a 22” shaft (available length I’m aware of).

A 5’ Skipshooter likely better with this.
 
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