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Yes, and it was not a vertical spring, but acted more like a torsion rod, where the coil was along the length of the shaft and twisted "back" n "forth" from the torque of when the whip would hit something - whipping it to offset the impact and offsetting the balance - the thing then found it's "center" and would return to supposed vertical position.
They were not as popular because of the "Wind whack" while driving would make the mount reverberate as winds and the drive-by semis passing it tend to make it move off it's "detent" - making for a noisy commute at times on the highway.
Remember a local Driver back in the early 80's used a set of these when he drove for gravel trains. The antennas did better (last longer) but the mount had it's own problems with "slop" where even a hard stop at intersections would "Tonk-tunk-tunk-tunk" could be heard thru his microphone - it's how his wife would know his condition.
It was made for antennas that you couldn't tune or adjust length for - those pre-set ones that if you added a shock spring it was either too heavy (wouldn't stand up) or de-tuned it' - thru length - beyond resonance.
They were not as popular because of the "Wind whack" while driving would make the mount reverberate as winds and the drive-by semis passing it tend to make it move off it's "detent" - making for a noisy commute at times on the highway.
Remember a local Driver back in the early 80's used a set of these when he drove for gravel trains. The antennas did better (last longer) but the mount had it's own problems with "slop" where even a hard stop at intersections would "Tonk-tunk-tunk-tunk" could be heard thru his microphone - it's how his wife would know his condition.
It was made for antennas that you couldn't tune or adjust length for - those pre-set ones that if you added a shock spring it was either too heavy (wouldn't stand up) or de-tuned it' - thru length - beyond resonance.
Wish they had those when I learned how to drive a 10-speed. Haha. RPM matching...no problem. But I could get not mashing the clutch to the floor.
Hmmm
White boys can’t dance
White boys can’t jump
It’s pretty funny you get a black guy can’t shift like one in my CDL training class . . . and remind him that rhythm ain't supposed to be his problem.
My instructor was on me one morning BECAUSE I was pretty good at the outset. But not that morning. I told him I felt it my duty to make things easy for the next guy (five of em crammed into sleeper), that I was therefore grinding them gear teeth down EVENLY.
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White boys can’t dance
White boys can’t jump
It’s pretty funny you get a black guy can’t shift like one in my CDL training class . . . and remind him that rhythm ain't supposed to be his problem.
My instructor was on me one morning BECAUSE I was pretty good at the outset. But not that morning. I told him I felt it my duty to make things easy for the next guy (five of em crammed into sleeper), that I was therefore grinding them gear teeth down EVENLY.
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Here’s an MFJ-347 Dipole (Ham-stick) Mount. Pieces rearranged, but stock. Note bracket bent. One of two owned.
Here it is modified to better grasp a round bar mount. I used some pieces from some Wilson mounts to find a matched pair AND some longer bolts. Double-nutted.
Downside to this is potential contact with “cold” antenna.
I was pleased to find this arrangement FAR better than as provided by MFJ. Using the stock 347 on truck means it slips, eventually. Note bent bracket on each from use.
Someone might find this approach useful (hamstick mount).
Here was the attempt to use the TOP GUN TEC Z-Mount for a Dipole. Those are 5.5’ Francis.
That there is some pill poppin SWRs. (3.0+). Matching length Cold antenna nearly touching steps.
Figured it was worth a try. I like the idea.
Antenna of same height stolen from truck last week was at same position on different mount where SWR was 1.3 or less. (See pics above).
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Here’s where I’d like to try that idea. Dipole. Drivers-side. Stuck between plastic fairing pieces. Plastic one-piece cab & sleeper.
(Stainless Steel) Twisted-L Bracket
TOP GUN TEC (Bobs CB)
Doesn’t stick out too far. I’ll measure distance mirrors have from body to establish a range.
But the “twist” is the wrong direction. (The bracket is not moved for any picture; another fastener hidden). The bracket from sleeper to fairing is steel.
I have some short thick chrome convex spot mirror brackets I might try. Equal length bend.
Won’t do it this trip home, but if any ideas come to mind, pass them along.
(My preference would be a cophase pair. But the exhaust stack would seem to rule that out).
The Porkchop Rebbe is adamant about this one in many posts over on a truck CB forum. And has posted here of same (but using a sheet of stainless across the sleeper back). Essentially, where one has a plastic truck, a Dipole can work so long as the antenna is electrically-separate (etc).
A piece of stainless may be better versus cobbling brackets together. And move the antenna out a little farther.
I’ve seen discussion that the short distance of MFJ bracket-spacing really makes for a collinear antenna.
Ideas on bracket stud spacing? Other?
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(Ignore strike thru)
The popular antenna mounting point on a “fleet-spec” composite body truck is the side-mirror body mount bolts.
The ubiquitous Freightliner Cascadia has mirror mounts from a half-dozen sources.
Unfortunately, the forward portion of a similar mount on the 579 (would) encounter
This is (almost) the only way to mount a 6’ or 7’ antenna and stay below 14’ clearance..
My past experience with 7’ Skipshooters on a Cascadia was very good.
When I get back to Texas I’ll jury-Rig one of several pairs of Cascadia mounts to the rear bolt pair to see how far off it is. I’d like to run a pair of 102” whips.
;The passenger door “spot mirror” mount used currently is okay for receive. Just, okay.
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I guess I was mistaken about the body being the same as the kenworth.
If you got a spot mirror on the passenger door I think that's probably the easiest and cheapest antenna mounting location.
I would never mount it behind the cab under any circumstances unless you want to bring it outside the rear fairings which is a lot of work.
Bob sells a stainless steel Z bracket Which bolts to the passenger side door. Getting it out from behind the cab is always a good thing.
https://www.topguntec.com/antenna_mounts.htm
If you got a spot mirror on the passenger door I think that's probably the easiest and cheapest antenna mounting location.
I would never mount it behind the cab under any circumstances unless you want to bring it outside the rear fairings which is a lot of work.
Bob sells a stainless steel Z bracket Which bolts to the passenger side door. Getting it out from behind the cab is always a good thing.
https://www.topguntec.com/antenna_mounts.htm
1). How far away from body is reasonable for a dipole on a big truck at that location (rear fairing), in your opinion?
2). In other posts with examples, I believe you’ve used stainless flat sheet and mounted antennas thru that. “Stuck between” a fairing gap (inside to outside).
— I’m assuming the exhaust stack on the passenger side means to run ONLY a single on drivers side. (Ideal seen as no metal paralleling antenna)
— Otherwise, a piece of sheet steel from one side to the other (with clearance for trailer swing).
3). What spacing between cold and hot whips? (Holes drilled).
4). Set cold whip with a stud that can accommodate degrees of swing from vertical to near horizontal? (Tuning).
5). RF Bonding that stack looks like a problem. It’s well secured down low — and, while a SS exhaust band can be obtained — I don’t know if there’s metal that high to which to run the bond.
6). Hell, I bought a compact SIRIO Boomerang. I’ll just bring it out from the bottom of the fairing on a j-pole satellite mast to accommodate that 12’ length. 8.5’ Tall and 3.5 Swing.
Find the 5.5’ fairing point, ha!
(Truly, I don’t know if it’s 15.5’ overall or the 12’ above).
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Spacing was determined by keeping 9' between the elements and had nothing to do with proximity to the body. If the body has any metal in it you're probably barking up the wrong tree. It worked great on a peterbilt 387 which is all plastic body.
The peterbilt 387 had a stack on the passenger side and it didn't prevent me from putting an element on that side.
I didn't get all scientific about it I simply drilled a couple holes without putting any thought into it.
The Sirio boomerang seems like a pretty interesting idea.
Thx. Heari
Thanks. Hearing of experience half the battle (getting rid of some questions).
Body is one-piece composite Ultraloft.
Thanks. Hearing of experience half the battle (getting rid of some questions).
Body is one-piece composite Ultraloft.