So my thought of running CB ground, stereo amp ground, fuel pump ground, etc all to the batt neg post is actually doing the opposite of my thought? I thought a common ground point to battery, same as common power point at batt pos post, would eliminate ground loops and other noises..
Should I be grounding to the frame??
What you need to do is what it takes to remove the noise...
IF it can't be done at the sources of them, you will have to attempt other means.
Simply put, we can't do much about the POSITIVE side of the power supply.
What we can work on and improve, are the ground returns from these noise sources to keep the sources that generate them, reduce the wires' lengths (as possible), reduce their ability to transmit and radiate - by taking steps - reducing wire run lengths - shorter the better - grounding returns closer to the parts to lower their wires' inductive paths - let the vehicle provide the return path and shielding effects to attain this.
Shorter wires that radiate less noise of the device - mounting and tying off as short as possible to ground return provides as a shielding potential-drop as well as shielding itself to - by using- the same NEGATIVE the battery uses. The individual circuits used in the vehicle HAS TO return it's power from all the accessories and even the engine block - to the very source of power providing it - that process is Grounding. To provide the lowest ohmic and reactive impedance effects - I call it "bonding" as in Bonding to Frame. Example: The vehicles' sensors - to simplify such wiring headaches, already attempt to do this thru single wire supply or single port routing with the main ground return built into it's own housing.
Long wire runs are the bane of the industry, anywhere - Home, Car - Radio - Wire is used to obtain a signal - you can also use it to radiate, so that means if there is noise in the area, that very wire will receive it and radiate it back into that area and into your radio - simultaneously.
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