well post a pic of the Driver and Final portion of the board and see if we can help.
But right now...
- I'm not here as a "stand alone tech" that will fix your work as you go on into and run into problems.
- I don't get paid for this...
- This thread is about the experimentation and utilization of the UPGRADE to new MOSFET from the Bi-polar era and it's issues.
- Stop here and find a tech that can work alongside you if you are not comfortable or confident enough to do the work on your own.
- You may be here far longer than all of the ENTIRE population of CB'ers left in the U.S. - that's quite a feat - Congratulations! And No - it still does not allow you to get free passes to Disneyland or Tokens to pay for your commute to and from New Jersey Turnpikes...nor would you even need to ask...because you've seen and been thru this already...
Madison or Washington - they're a lot like the Grant XL and Cobra 148 style of yesteryear. It's re-work will be extensive. IT's not for the nostalgic or feint of heart.
You don't have bias issues like the older versions, so you'll be removing more parts and swapping in less parts from it, So you'll be removing OEM parts and so THAT MEANS to KEEP things IN ORDER, stay ORGANIZED so you can REASSEMBLE the board back to the OEM you're converting...if it don't work out
Get an IRF510 and IRF520 - your IRF 510 becomes your Driver - while the IRF520 becomes your Final. You can use two 520's but not two 510's - so choose wisely - why 510 too? It's the less powered "sister" complementary to the 520 - works a lot like a 2166 - so you should follow hierarchy structure and use Driver and Final parings. Why? Well, if you don't want to re-solder blown traces - or like have to re-work sections that took on too much current - and them you have to continuity check all your work back to find the fault of a blown trace of popped part - then please understand the complexity of the install and respect it.
You'll need several Disc caps of NPO quality - 1500pF or 0.0015uF or 152 Disc. Two of them and one of a value approximately 2200 onto 2700pF (0.0022uF or 222 - onto 0.0027uF or 272 Discs as for your output) to couple to your tank circuit.
You may have most of the caps you need already in place, but remember the Gates of the MOSFETS' require a lot more, larger valued heavy input capacitance (Gate cap values will be pretty large) So the values you have may be too small to achieve the effect.
So you have to make some serious choices - removing of the OEM parts to clear out the section so you can re-populate it is not as simple as it appears - you do this in steps...Best to do the Final first, because you can then verify it's "interface" to the older OEM Driver and get it to output power - before you swap that Driver section out.
