Mount for Acura MDX SUV

[Troubleshooter]

Whats going on guys.. Wondering if anyone could recommend a good mount for my sirio turbo 5000 pl antenna on my Acura suv? I purchased the magnet mount for the sirio but not sure that is going to be the best way to go.. I do not want to drill any holes into my suv, I keep my vehicles in pristine condition.. So besides the magnet mount , what kind of mount can I use for my suv, and where should I mount the antenna.. I was looking at the diamond k400 and it says trunk or hatch mount.. Not sure where I would put that, maybe on the side of the hatch door?? I also need a mount that is going to handle some power, maybe 1000 watts on the high side, not sure what I am going to run yet, but I need it to at least handle that kind of power.. I want a good mount so I do not mind spending the money on one.. I also do not have to go with the sirio antenna either, if you guys have a better antenna to use, then I will buy another antenna if I have to.. I figured though the sirio turbo 5000 would not be an eye sore on my vehicle, over say a predator 10k.. Any help and or recommendations would be greatly appreciated on the best setup... Thanks guys...

 

[fourstringburn]

By reports I have read about using magnet mounts is they can scratch the painted surface, they can leave burn marks running high power, and they can become a flying hazard flying off the vehicle if you were to get into an accident and won't be covered under insurances.

If all that is true, it won't leave your vehicle pristine. Mag mounts should really be used for temporary use.

I understand about not drilling holes but is is the best way for a good DC ground and overall performance.

Here is a copy/paste from one of the most highly regarded mobile information site. Granted this is for Amateur radio ops but it applies here too. See link at bottom for recommended manufactures of mobile mounts for some ideas. Look at NMO mounts and Puck mounts.

NMO mounts are the type you see on the trucks of Police cars. These work well but the require an UHF adapter to convert to a 3/8 antenna stud which are plenty available.

Good luck!


A lot of misinformed folks use clip and mag mounts because they're convinced they don't depreciate the value of their vehicle. Look closely at the photo below (click to enlarge). While a drilled hole can be easily plugged, and go unnoticed, there is no way this type of damage can be ignored. If you want a different perspective, read this PDF. There is another problem associated with mounting antennas on hatches, and rear doors. Most hatches (and doors) have defroster grid wires, a CMHSL, and sometimes even wipers. Since these hatches offer a poor ground return for the RF current, a goodly portion of that current ends up being induced into the vehicle's wiring. This fact causes all manner of RFI problems, and because the wiring is difficult to get to, it is nearly impossible to use ferrite material to overcome the problem.

Mag mounts

There are many reasons to permanently install any mobile antenna. Aside from maximizing performance by minimizing ground and shunt capacitance losses, there is the safety issue should the antenna come unstuck. Further, some insurance companies will not cover antennas which are not permanently installed. These facts preclude the use of mag mounted antennas.



The one shown in the right photo is a typical unit. When they're demonstrated in retail outlets, they're stuck to a thick chunk of metal. Since the amount of sticking force is reliant on the thickness of the material it is stuck to, the actual force will be much less when it is sitting atop your vehicle. It doesn't make much difference how many magnets they have, or how big they are. The fact remains they will become flying missiles in the event of a crash.


There are two more problems users should be aware of. First, they collect road debris (mainly metallic brake dust) which eventually gets between the magnet and the sheet metal. Secondly, the base cover, usually a rubberized plastic, has an affinity for clear coat vehicle finishes. It is a given that the surface under the mag mount will become both scratched and/or discolored over time. In some cases, less than a week! The bottom line is, if you have to resort to a mag mount for your antenna, you haven't thought long enough about other, safer, more efficient, mounting methods.



Bed, Clamp, Clip, Lip & Trunk Mounts



There are several things to keep in mind when using any non-permanent mount, no matter how it attaches. First, it is no better than the vehicle sub-structure it is clamped to. A typical example is a roof rack. Most are not DC grounded to the body of the vehicle. Even when they are they still represent a poor ground plane even at UHF.



Clamp mounts like the K400 shown at right might save you from drilling a hole in sheet metal, but that doesn't mean they don't cause body damage, as the photo of the K400 above depicts. Since the return path for the coax relies on the integrity of the hinges, and the mounting set screws, it isn't an ideal situation ground loss wise. Adding insult, most clip mounts come equipped with a preinstalled RG174U coax assembly, although some use RG58A. The cable is usually 10 feet long (3 meters actually). At 30 MHz, the loss averages about .5 dB, and increase to about 1 dB at 150 MHz (≈2 meters). At 450 MHz (70 cm) the loss is almost 4 dB. Add in some ground loss, some impedance mismatch, and the total loss attributed to a clip mount can easily double the aforementioned figures. Incidentally, the motor lead choke shown is totally inadequate!


https://breedlovemounts.com/

 

[derek vincent]

By reports I have read about using magnet mounts is they can scratch the painted surface, they can leave burn marks running high power, and they can become a flying hazard flying off the vehicle if you were to get into an accident and won't be covered under insurances.

If all that is true, it won't leave your vehicle pristine. Mag mounts should really be used for temporary use.

I understand about not drilling holes but is is the best way for a good DC ground and overall performance.

Here is a copy/paste from one of the most highly regarded mobile information site. Granted this is for Amateur radio ops but it applies here too. See link at bottom for recommended manufactures of mobile mounts for some ideas. Look at NMO mounts and Puck mounts.

NMO mounts are the type you see on the trucks of Police cars. These work well but the require an UHF adapter to convert to a 3/8 antenna stud which are plenty available.

Good luck!


A lot of misinformed folks use clip and mag mounts because they're convinced they don't depreciate the value of their vehicle. Look closely at the photo below (click to enlarge). While a drilled hole can be easily plugged, and go unnoticed, there is no way this type of damage can be ignored. If you want a different perspective, read this PDF. There is another problem associated with mounting antennas on hatches, and rear doors. Most hatches (and doors) have defroster grid wires, a CMHSL, and sometimes even wipers. Since these hatches offer a poor ground return for the RF current, a goodly portion of that current ends up being induced into the vehicle's wiring. This fact causes all manner of RFI problems, and because the wiring is difficult to get to, it is nearly impossible to use ferrite material to overcome the problem.

Mag mounts

There are many reasons to permanently install any mobile antenna. Aside from maximizing performance by minimizing ground and shunt capacitance losses, there is the safety issue should the antenna come unstuck. Further, some insurance companies will not cover antennas which are not permanently installed. These facts preclude the use of mag mounted antennas.



The one shown in the right photo is a typical unit. When they're demonstrated in retail outlets, they're stuck to a thick chunk of metal. Since the amount of sticking force is reliant on the thickness of the material it is stuck to, the actual force will be much less when it is sitting atop your vehicle. It doesn't make much difference how many magnets they have, or how big they are. The fact remains they will become flying missiles in the event of a crash.


There are two more problems users should be aware of. First, they collect road debris (mainly metallic brake dust) which eventually gets between the magnet and the sheet metal. Secondly, the base cover, usually a rubberized plastic, has an affinity for clear coat vehicle finishes. It is a given that the surface under the mag mount will become both scratched and/or discolored over time. In some cases, less than a week! The bottom line is, if you have to resort to a mag mount for your antenna, you haven't thought long enough about other, safer, more efficient, mounting methods.



Bed, Clamp, Clip, Lip & Trunk Mounts



There are several things to keep in mind when using any non-permanent mount, no matter how it attaches. First, it is no better than the vehicle sub-structure it is clamped to. A typical example is a roof rack. Most are not DC grounded to the body of the vehicle. Even when they are they still represent a poor ground plane even at UHF.



Clamp mounts like the K400 shown at right might save you from drilling a hole in sheet metal, but that doesn't mean they don't cause body damage, as the photo of the K400 above depicts. Since the return path for the coax relies on the integrity of the hinges, and the mounting set screws, it isn't an ideal situation ground loss wise. Adding insult, most clip mounts come equipped with a preinstalled RG174U coax assembly, although some use RG58A. The cable is usually 10 feet long (3 meters actually). At 30 MHz, the loss averages about .5 dB, and increase to about 1 dB at 150 MHz (≈2 meters). At 450 MHz (70 cm) the loss is almost 4 dB. Add in some ground loss, some impedance mismatch, and the total loss attributed to a clip mount can easily double the aforementioned figures. Incidentally, the motor lead choke shown is totally inadequate!


https://breedlovemounts.com/

Whats going on guys.. Wondering if anyone could recommend a good mount for my sirio turbo 5000 pl antenna on my Acura suv? I purchased the magnet mount for the sirio but not sure that is going to be the best way to go.. I do not want to drill any holes into my suv, I keep my vehicles in pristine condition.. So besides the magnet mount , what kind of mount can I use for my suv, and where should I mount the antenna.. I was looking at the diamond k400 and it says trunk or hatch mount.. Not sure where I would put that, maybe on the side of the hatch door?? I also need a mount that is going to handle some power, maybe 1000 watts on the high side, not sure what I am going to run yet, but I need it to at least handle that kind of power.. I want a good mount so I do not mind spending the money on one.. I also do not have to go with the sirio antenna either, if you guys have a better antenna to use, then I will buy another antenna if I have to.. I figured though the sirio turbo 5000 would not be an eye sore on my vehicle, over say a predator 10k.. Any help and or recommendations would be greatly appreciated on the best setup... Thanks guys...

Don't worry just make sure you drill the hole the proper size. Unless you are tall you will never notice it. If you want to fill the hole just buy one of those small shark fin antennas in you will be just fine.

 

[fourstringburn]

I came across this today...






Life is too short to not drill holes in your car:

 

[Troubleshooter]

I came across this today...






Life is too short to not drill holes in your car:

Thanks guys for all your opinions and suggestions.. I am still hesitant in drilling a hole in my SUV.. What about the headliner inside the car? If I drill a hole that will probably get messed up as well.. I want to get setup but I do not want to go ruining my SUV.. I might go with the magnetic mount for the time being until I decide what to do or if there is any other way without messing up my car.. It's fairly new and I keep my cars in pristine condition, hope you guys know where I am coming from. I know that drilling a hole and permanently mounting it is the best way but I am not ready to drill a hole.. I appreciate all the responses and it means a lot...

 

[The DB]

I might go with the magnetic mount for the time being until I decide what to do or if there is any other way without messing up my car..

If you are that concerned about your car, be careful with this option. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but these can cause far more damage then drilling a hole. Magnetic dust and grit often gets under the magnets and creates rust swirls in your paint. Rain water gets underneath and sits there even longer than if there was nothing there, which does not help the rust problem any.

It really isn't hard or expensive to get a hole filled if you need to, or you can get a small antenna that fits in the same hole as well.

If you really insist on using a magnet mount antenna for a permanent install, consider putting a thin layer of silicone sealant between the magnet and the roof, this will help keep the magnetic dust and grit away from the magnet, and after removing the magnet rubbing your fingers over the sealant will pull it up. The sealant may also hold the antenna in place a little better as well. I would, however, call this a stopgap measure at best, but it is better than slapping a magnet mount antenna on your car and letting it do its damage. The problem with the sealant is if the antenna is knocked off you have to get all the sealant off before putting it back on again, and the sealant makes the capacitive connection between the magnet and the metal that is your vehicle worse, and this is a required electrical connection that the antenna has to have to function. So essentially, with a magnet mount, you are either shooting yourself in the foot, or shooting yourself in the other foot, the choice is yours.

Optionally, you can see if you can find a spot for a lip mount, they can be somewhat permanent and suffer none of the disadvantages of a magnet mount, although you are more limited on where you can put them, They can, however, twist the metal that they are attached to, remember, they are not in the middle of a sheet of metal, but on its edge. This makes a big difference in the strength of the metal where these are attached. This type of damage will always cost far more than a single hole used to bolt on an antenna will cost to repair. Larger lip mounts have less of an issue with this as they are gripping more metal and spreads the antennas load out more, so if this is your option, it really does pay to go big with this type of mount. Also, with this type of mount make sure the metal attachment bolts are making it all the way through to bare metal, you need this connection for the antenna to work well

If you refuse to bolt on an antenna, the question becomes 'how you are willing to risk compromising your vehicle?' Only you can answer that question, but if the vehicle is really that important to you, why are you risking compromising it in the first place?


The DB

 

[Troubleshooter]

If you are that concerned about your car, be careful with this option. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but these can cause far more damage then drilling a hole. Magnetic dust and grit often gets under the magnets and creates rust swirls in your paint. Rain water gets underneath and sits there even longer than if there was nothing there, which does not help the rust problem any.

It really isn't hard or expensive to get a hole filled if you need to, or you can get a small antenna that fits in the same hole as well.

If you really insist on using a magnet mount antenna for a permanent install, consider putting a thin layer of silicone sealant between the magnet and the roof, this will help keep the magnetic dust and grit away from the magnet, and after removing the magnet rubbing your fingers over the sealant will pull it up. The sealant may also hold the antenna in place a little better as well. I would, however, call this a stopgap measure at best, but it is better than slapping a magnet mount antenna on your car and letting it do its damage. The problem with the sealant is if the antenna is knocked off you have to get all the sealant off before putting it back on again, and the sealant makes the capacitive connection between the magnet and the metal that is your vehicle worse, and this is a required electrical connection that the antenna has to have to function. So essentially, with a magnet mount, you are either shooting yourself in the foot, or shooting yourself in the other foot, the choice is yours.

Optionally, you can see if you can find a spot for a lip mount, they can be somewhat permanent and suffer none of the disadvantages of a magnet mount, although you are more limited on where you can put them, They can, however, twist the metal that they are attached to, remember, they are not in the middle of a sheet of metal, but on its edge. This makes a big difference in the strength of the metal where these are attached. This type of damage will always cost far more than a single hole used to bolt on an antenna will cost to repair. Larger lip mounts have less of an issue with this as they are gripping more metal and spreads the antennas load out more, so if this is your option, it really does pay to go big with this type of mount. Also, with this type of mount make sure the metal attachment bolts are making it all the way through to bare metal, you need this connection for the antenna to work well

If you refuse to bolt on an antenna, the question becomes 'how you are willing to risk compromising your vehicle?' Only you can answer that question, but if the vehicle is really that important to you, why are you risking compromising it in the first place?


The DB

Not to concern about the outside as it can easily be fixed.. I am mainly worried about the headliner in the vehicle.. How do you go about not messing that up? I would like to drill the hole and mount it because like you and the others have been saying, and even I know it's the right way to do it.. I might have to find a shop that is still around where I live and see if they can install it without messing up my car. If they can then I am all for it.. Thanks for the help...

Pete

 

[The DB]

If there is a dome light, those are generally fairly easy to remove/reinstall, that will give you access without taking out a headliner. In my case, the headliner is held in place with the molding around the windows and such, which is all held in place with phillips head screws. Was literally a 10 minute or less job to take mine out and just as quick to put it back in after I installed the antenna mount. I can't say your Honda will be the same way as I am not familiar with the vehicle.


The DB

 

[Troubleshooter]

If there is a dome light, those are generally fairly easy to remove/reinstall, that will give you access without taking out a headliner. In my case, the headliner is held in place with the molding around the windows and such, which is all held in place with phillips head screws. Was literally a 10 minute or less job to take mine out and just as quick to put it back in after I installed the antenna mount. I can't say your Honda will be the same way as I am not familiar with the vehicle.


The DB

I will look into that.. If it could be done by one of my dome lights then we would be good to go... Thanks for the heads up..

 

[rabbiporkchop]

Thanks guys for all your opinions and suggestions.. I am still hesitant in drilling a hole in my SUV.. What about the headliner inside the car? If I drill a hole that will probably get messed up as well.. I want to get setup but I do not want to go ruining my SUV.. I might go with the magnetic mount for the time being until I decide what to do or if there is any other way without messing up my car.. It's fairly new and I keep my cars in pristine condition, hope you guys know where I am coming from. I know that drilling a hole and permanently mounting it is the best way but I am not ready to drill a hole.. I appreciate all the responses and it means a lot...

I had to remove the whole interior on my Chevy Tahoe to install my antenna without ruining the headliner and it was an all-day project but it was totally worth it

 

[fourstringburn]

I had to remove the whole interior on my Chevy Tahoe to install my antenna without ruining the headliner and it was an all-day project but it was totally worth it

Post a pic if you get the chance.

 

[Troubleshooter]

I had to remove the whole interior on my Chevy Tahoe to install my antenna without ruining the headliner and it was an all-day project but it was totally worth it

I have no doubt it was well worth it.. Messing with headliners is a PIA, but if you want to mount the antenna the right way, you really have no choice..

 

[rabbiporkchop]

Post a pic if you get the chance.

Pic

It's about 7 feet tall so it's kinda hard to take pics of the top.

 

[fourstringburn]

Nice Tahoe and a nice install!

Thanks for posting.

 

[Troubleshooter]

Pic

It's about 7 feet tall so it's kinda hard to take pics of the top.

Very nice.. Maybe I will come to pa and hire you to install my antenna.. Lol