I know I've seen some people with some noise issues with newer cars with LEDs but wondering if anyone has specifically pinpointed it in the Fords to issues with the LED headlights.
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New Fords with LED headlights - anyone have issues
- Thread starter Big Kahuna
- Start date
Are they LED or HID, high intensity discharge? HID lamps are basically like spark gaps and have been known to produce a lot of hash noise.
Can't speak about Ford, 5 months back i changed the H4 halogen in my car for Osram HL Ledriving gen2 led bulbs, and i'm quite pleased with them, bright white and much stronger light as the halogens, checked in the dealer and all OK nobody signalling or blinded.
That do cost a bit more as the chinese junk though.
absolute no noise on any frequency to be heard.
Checked CB, 6 meter, 2/70 nothing there.
That do cost a bit more as the chinese junk though.
absolute no noise on any frequency to be heard.
Checked CB, 6 meter, 2/70 nothing there.
Good to hear! I believe the new fords have led headlights and some have halogen taillights.
Bronco, Ranger, Maverick are the ones I was browsing.
Bronco, Ranger, Maverick are the ones I was browsing.
There may be a DRLS (Daytime Running Light System) that "pulses" the LED system as part of a power reduction and life extending and battery condition system designed to allow the lamps to light for driving - work when wipers are on, and then switch to full brightness when dusk to dawn condition.
This can also be done to reduce heat - so the LED itself can last longer and provide similar brightness - as if on constantly but using pulse mode (think square waves) the duty cycle makes the current demand less.
The interesting thing about LED's are - they can be "dimmed" by pulsing current thru them at a given rate. They can also be kept at full brightness by doing the same thing - providing them with full voltage without any resistor or linear supply action - to reduce heat - yet at a higher pulse duration (still 50% but much higher frequency and at a full supply rail gives them a similar brightness level without having to use a dropping resistor.)
The noise would disappear when the light switch is off or on -(Direct control bypass) but when in Auto - the noise can appear. But then too, depending upon the lighting module - the LED's self controlling regulation system (cooling brightness and even color - switchback) can emit this noise.
The LED systems are self contained and work with the vehicle supply - an extra control line can be provided and even FORSCAN can be used to enable and disable this DRLS system.
That condition is from the Body Control Module - monitoring the system. The system is "pulsed" for 50% duration on off cycling to reduce power consumption yet provide a margin of safety.
It can also emit noise when it "polls" systems to make sure all the lamps it can monitor, GPS and even the SYNC units are working - as a function like a current sense circuit.
This can also be done to reduce heat - so the LED itself can last longer and provide similar brightness - as if on constantly but using pulse mode (think square waves) the duty cycle makes the current demand less.
The interesting thing about LED's are - they can be "dimmed" by pulsing current thru them at a given rate. They can also be kept at full brightness by doing the same thing - providing them with full voltage without any resistor or linear supply action - to reduce heat - yet at a higher pulse duration (still 50% but much higher frequency and at a full supply rail gives them a similar brightness level without having to use a dropping resistor.)
The noise would disappear when the light switch is off or on -(Direct control bypass) but when in Auto - the noise can appear. But then too, depending upon the lighting module - the LED's self controlling regulation system (cooling brightness and even color - switchback) can emit this noise.
The LED systems are self contained and work with the vehicle supply - an extra control line can be provided and even FORSCAN can be used to enable and disable this DRLS system.
That condition is from the Body Control Module - monitoring the system. The system is "pulsed" for 50% duration on off cycling to reduce power consumption yet provide a margin of safety.
It can also emit noise when it "polls" systems to make sure all the lamps it can monitor, GPS and even the SYNC units are working - as a function like a current sense circuit.
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I was just looking at the recommendation in the manual for antenna mounting on some of the new vehicles and it's interesting. Only 50W max and they tell you to mount it at the back of the vehicle for 0-30MHz. I can't imagine 50W or even 200W from an antenna on the center roof causing issues. I thought I remember that the roof is supposed to be the best place for minimizing RF to passengers.
If you own a Ford, or any newer vehicle really, the on-board BASE electronics haven't changed, but their interfaces have. So they would be more sensitive to the glitches.
On top of the fact that they took all the good spots already and filled it up with their "carp" and call it occupant safety and protection. Have SRS? Best to use duct tape and just tape over the light - for it will come on because of the wiring sensing vibrations and extra electrical loading in it's pre-determined loop and margins - hey it's a antenna and you're riding along with it - in a faraday cage - once above or below - sets the condition.
Even my earlier Toyota used the plastic-based wire and loom sheathing - 12 years old and was still "shiny" - damn pissed I got rid of the thing...
I could go on. But right now I'm slowly de-evolving my Ford so I can have something that works longer than I hope the older Toyota ever could.
On top of the fact that they took all the good spots already and filled it up with their "carp" and call it occupant safety and protection. Have SRS? Best to use duct tape and just tape over the light - for it will come on because of the wiring sensing vibrations and extra electrical loading in it's pre-determined loop and margins - hey it's a antenna and you're riding along with it - in a faraday cage - once above or below - sets the condition.
In current FORD's this can be up to as many as 5 different places of REDUNDANT storage for DTC and ERROR codes' Trapping and Freeze data - stored in MEMORY using that CAN system to back it self up. The price of Storage has dropped, so they use the CAN system to transfer and store - along with redundant self-diagnostics - glitches in themselves. Only Top of the Line Diagnostics tools and J2534 based system with licensing provided from the automaker can get to and past the firewalls to access and reset/erase codes from being shown or stored for the system is designed to shut out everything (remember BT is a Hi-jack tool that accesses CAN systems and can wreak havoc with on-board systems..)
- Firewalls? Try your VIN - you can get pretty far...review some grey-internet sites you'll see where other ID data can be used to obtain access to specific sections of code within a specific system - changing it's performance - on the fly.
Even my earlier Toyota used the plastic-based wire and loom sheathing - 12 years old and was still "shiny" - damn pissed I got rid of the thing...
I could go on. But right now I'm slowly de-evolving my Ford so I can have something that works longer than I hope the older Toyota ever could.
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So what do you think of their recommendations?
I was going to install a McKinley with a kl7505 and Wilson 5000 mag center roof. Just wondering how careful I’d need to be with 200W or if I need to keep it at 100W or their 50W max.
Is it really that sensitive?
No HF 100W either in new cars I guess.
I was going to install a McKinley with a kl7505 and Wilson 5000 mag center roof. Just wondering how careful I’d need to be with 200W or if I need to keep it at 100W or their 50W max.
Is it really that sensitive?
No HF 100W either in new cars I guess.
It's not just Ford, it's KIA, Hyundai - Nissan - a slew of them all using OBD-II CAN systems.
The clue here is many of these use Imported materials from Foreign Origins - I'll leave the rest with this...
Several of the XYL's office workers have had issues with Bluetooth, Phones - Fuses - the sheer Quality from just less than a Decade ago, has been downhill - it seems the slope is getting steeper.
The clue here is many of these use Imported materials from Foreign Origins - I'll leave the rest with this...
Several of the XYL's office workers have had issues with Bluetooth, Phones - Fuses - the sheer Quality from just less than a Decade ago, has been downhill - it seems the slope is getting steeper.
“America” no longer matters.
Get that understood.
Get a restored unit-body Dodge Dart Swinger. 4-whl disc conversion. High-winding V8-340, or stump-pulling V8-360. 4+1 Man Trans, or AOD 727. 3.23-gears with Detroit TrueTrac. Vintage Air A/C. Recaro buckets.
Hang an A38 Dodge Police Pursuit Leece-Neville off the block and move BATT to trunk.
SIGNAL ENGINEERING GoldenRod 45 on rear deck (that’s design spec; JJDallas admits they’re as good as a Predator, but the GR is king in that location). Ain’t gonna need many RF bonds!
.
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My December 2016 Hyundai I10 full gadgets does not care for 100 watt and roof mounted antenna from the FT100 on HF, nor 6 meter nor 50 watts on 2 or 20 watts on 70 Cm.
Most car manufacturrers just don't want to be hit by lawsuites so they stay on the safe side with claims what you can get in the car and power used.
Yes i have an OBD2 system, read it out myself here.
In case of doubt use ferrite near computer and the other computers for air bags etc
Bond everything well, i didn't run more as the 100 watts from the FT100 thoug, it is a bit difficult to drag the Heathkit SB-1000 in the car and run that long extention cord
Most car manufacturrers just don't want to be hit by lawsuites so they stay on the safe side with claims what you can get in the car and power used.
Yes i have an OBD2 system, read it out myself here.
In case of doubt use ferrite near computer and the other computers for air bags etc
Bond everything well, i didn't run more as the 100 watts from the FT100 thoug, it is a bit difficult to drag the Heathkit SB-1000 in the car and run that long extention cord