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NEW THREAD QUESTIONS FOR SONAR FS 2340 AUDIO ISSUES.

Sonar

Sr. Member
Apr 8, 2016
1,501
1,019
173
Weather I'm modulating or not the 12 Watts pep I get from my Sonar fs 2340 drops down to only 4 Watts. The dead key does not drop what so ever even after an hour or so of the rig being turned on.
I changed both 6bq5 modulators (with two NOS ones,) and tested. The results were the same. 12 watt pep drops to 4 weather modulating or not, after a 10 or 15 minute warm-up (but will drop within about 2 minutes of modulating.).
I then changed the 12at7 (which is the dual 6bq5 driver.) With the same results after the change.
Shady Tree mechanic suggested I might change out the 6au6a which is the driver for the 6bq5 final .
Is this something that I should try? Is it in the realm of possibility that the 6au6A that drives the (single) 6BQ5 final cause a drop in my audio pep without affecting the 11/2 watt dead key?
I also would like to know if changing the final 6BQ5 (which is the only one of the three that I did not change.) Due to worrying about not being able to neutralize it. Could changing the final without neutralizing it adversely affect the transceiver even though I will only test it for approximately 10 minutes of turn on time and only about 10 seconds of transmitting?
I would go ahead and do these things without having to ask if it weren't difficult for me. As most of you know my disability makes these change outs a challenge. And will take me about a half hour as opposed to the couple of minutes it should..
This is just my last ditch effort in order to get the transceiver working and to actually figure out on my own (with your help LOL) what the issue is. Even though in the end the transceiver might have to be sent out. Even if these changes work I cannot neutralize the 6BQ5 final hence having to send it out even if for for the neutralization only.
Going through these motions is just a way to spend some time under the hood of the radio and be able to say to myself that I actual accomplished repairing something on my own.
I might actually have a local acquaintances who does have the knowledge and the meter it takes in order to neutralize the final. So if I get it to work properly I might not have to pack it up and send it out. Packing and shipping is a huge hassle for me not to mention worrying about the transceiver getting thrashed during shipping. Thanks to all. 73's
 

A 'scope is your best bet with something like this. If you have 2 minutes before the modulated PEP drops, scope the audio path, and the xmit rf path. Note the levels. After the PEP drops, scope it again, and see where the differences are. This will point you to the problem area. This is the method I use, and it works for me. There is a big difference between "parts swappers" and real technicians. Swappers change things until it works. A REAL tech analyzes the problem, and finds the solution. Use a 'scope.

- 399
 
A 'scope is your best bet with something like this. If you have 2 minutes before the modulated PEP drops, scope the audio path, and the xmit rf path. Note the levels. After the PEP drops, scope it again, and see where the differences are. This will point you to the problem area. This is the method I use, and it works for me. There is a big difference between "parts swappers" and real technicians. Swappers change things until it works. A REAL tech analyzes the problem, and finds the solution. Use a 'scope.

- 399
Unfortunately I do not own to scope and don't have the physical dexterity in my fingers in order to turn knobs, and such. That's why when it comes to getting anything repaired I box it up and send it to Mike, which is what is probably going to happen. In all actuality it's definitely going to happen I just wanted to give it a go before sending it to him. With the knowledge that even if I got the problem rectified I was going to send it to him anyway. Just trying to pass some time while recovering. Not much else to do, and the boob tube is really getting boring . Thank you for the info. 73
 

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