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Nitro Knobs



Oh yeah, I done posted up ole Mr. X in another thread somewhere. Nice looking radios huh? But let me tell ya what I heard...

There's a certain person on this forum that has a YouTube channel that I stumbled upon and he has a video with one of Mr. X's radios in it - it sounds really terrible. I hope maybe it's just that one dudes radio and not every other radio he cranks out. I mean it's bad, bad.

Now look-wise, that's a nice looking radio. I've got those exact knobs here in the shop, took them off a trade-in. I personally don't like those knobs but that's just me.
 
Tasteless is tasteless.

The idea that all opinions are equal is bunk.

In this case, the diminution of night vision is a serious issue.

A very small dim lamp that lights the faceplate and is then turned off, is optional for those who bought more radio than they can deal with.
 
Somebody needs to build a “hey Siri” or “ok Google” radio, you say that and it lights up and asks what you want to do.

OK Connex... go to channel 19 and play every toy in the noise toy box.
 
Hey TRPC - pretty much what I meant by that.

There's only so much that can be done to these knobs and still remain functional.

But if you remember the older Mitsumi/Sansui Stereo - they used an "insert" into a knob to act like a fiber optic to transfer the light from the LED below - behind, the face that "side lit" the insert ring - so as the knob turned the light was fixed but the optic allowed the light to shine up thru clear plastic to the "dot" or slot on the knob.

Else the only other radios' that had anything close to this was like the Pro 640e and the TRC-485 - they used typical micro-candela light power - not the "glaring brilliance" and Stare-At-Me-I-Dare-You-I'll-Make-You-Go-Blind-You-Astigmatism-Freak.

So if the Nitro knob has that ability to illuminate thru the clear plastic body, you just need to use "flash chrome" cover and the just sand away or etch past the flash - you can add designs with form and function onto whatever portion you want to expose the light from underneath.
 
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That’s what I was thinking too. Magnum had a good idea with the dimmer board but internal control wasn’t the best option. I guess it was for “set it and forget it” but I like fiddling with things too much for that.
 
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Well, a long time ago in the cab of a truck far, far away...

Before there were blue lights in radios, I wanted a blue display because I was tired of red. So the hunt began to find the fix for that and where I was at, I was the first with blue. Now everything goes in blue. And blue is awful on your eyes in the dark.

Red is much better for nighttime. But a dimmer would help with the blue if you drive at night. I like the backlighting effect but the knobs just aren’t cutting it for me.
Remember back when the Stryker 440's first came out with the blue lighted bezel...I bought one of the first-run 440's and loved that radio except for the lights at night...Even on dim they were too bright for night driving...It was like having a small TV set sitting next to ya all lit-up...kept a baseball cap in the front seat to cover it up while driving after dark.
 
Too bad somebody doesn't manufacture diffused warm white LED rings. I’ve seen a video somewhere with someone making their own rings, a daunting task no doubt. If all I wanted was just a little light behind the knobs, I would first choose a diffused warm white LED's. I or 2 SMD LED’s behind each knob should be enough. The purpose of the ring is to evenly distribute the light around each knob. You don’t necessarily need that effect. Experiment with single ones placed across the top and bottom of each shaft. That should work too. For my own radios, I use warm white LED’s of various sizes almost exclusively for meters and indicators. They closely duplicate the grain of wheat bulbs of the past, and more importantly, they don’t bother the eyes. I also dim them down by adding extra resistance. If I can’t stare down the face of a radio without blinking in distress, the radio looses the match, not me.
 
Remember back when the Stryker 440's first came out with the blue lighted bezel...I bought one of the first-run 440's and loved that radio except for the lights at night...Even on dim they were too bright for night driving...It was like having a small TV set sitting next to ya all lit-up...kept a baseball cap in the front seat to cover it up while driving after dark.

Yup, I do remember that very well. I know exactly what you’re talking about too.

Too bad somebody doesn't manufacture diffused warm white LED rings. I’ve seen a video somewhere with someone making their own rings, a daunting task no doubt. If all I wanted was just a little light behind the knobs, I would first choose a diffused warm white LED's. I or 2 SMD LED’s behind each knob should be enough. The purpose of the ring is to evenly distribute the light around each knob. You don’t necessarily need that effect. Experiment with single ones placed across the top and bottom of each shaft. That should work too. For my own radios, I use warm white LED’s of various sizes almost exclusively for meters and indicators. They closely duplicate the grain of wheat bulbs of the past, and more importantly, they don’t bother the eyes. I also dim them down by adding extra resistance. If I can’t stare down the face of a radio without blinking in distress, the radio looses the match, not me.

I use the warm whites myself but some guys want the retina burner pure white.
 
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Remember back when the Stryker 440's first came out with the blue lighted bezel...I bought one of the first-run 440's and loved that radio except for the lights at night...Even on dim they were too bright for night driving...It was like having a small TV set sitting next to ya all lit-up...kept a baseball cap in the front seat to cover it up while driving after dark.
I have a 440 hooked up to a Starduster in my garage. Yeah it's bright but for a base unit it's ok. It was modified by Stick Man and is a great talker.
 
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First one I ever saw a truck driver bought it brand new. Called me one afternoon and was standing in his head, said it was new but wouldn’t put anything out, he’d been trying to talk on it with the coax unhooked.

Long story short, Shawn sent me everything needed to fix it free of charge. That was back when it was much easier to get support from Stryker and actually talk to Shawn himself on the phone. Of course his company has grown by leaps and bounds now so I guess it’s understandable why it’s hectic at times there.
 
I see Stryker is selling them now but the price is crazy.Anybody find something else that works to light up the knob?


i don't get it. why all the blinking lights beeps echo swing mods
i just don't get it. only lights i have come from my tubes
 
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