Oh' boy. Still happens to me. It is dangerous. If U have to. Make a sign clearly visible on
your work space. DISCHARGE HIGH VOLTAGE CAPS BEFORE Touching anything.
Hmm Bet that's one of the kits I sell on Ebay ! Insulated handle screw driver. Touch the
caps & ground the other end to the chassis. A small loud POW only. The button air
variable in yours. Appears to be mounted in the back of the case. Ah forgot. It has two button variable
air capacitors. The one in the back. Adjusts the output impedance of the CB. 50 Ohms. To the
input. Cathode of the first stage. Driver tube. Impedance. Which is probably lower than 20 ohms.
Could be wrong on that. Could be higher than 50 ohms. For full transfer. Of the driving RF from the
CB. There has to be a Matcher. Have to check the Skipper. See how its done in that Amp.
The bottom button variable.
Adjusts the impedance between the driver tube anode "output" to the input of the next
stage which is the "Cathode". Hence 1 x driving 3 x. The Palomar Skipper has it in the back.
Very convenient. Lets say. Going from 27.185 to 27.515. U have to reload & tune.
This tube box is GG. grounded grid. Might be AB2 ?
Give me a few days to pull mine out. I have been considering upgrading all the kits
with the resistors used in the parasitic suppressor's. Especially after the beat down on
my time with a 24LQ6 powered Phantom 500 I rebuilt. This Phantom 12 tuber in my car
certainly needs new parasitic resistors. Its cool. But a bit disconcerting. When I hear a pop
while talking & I see arcing. Jumping across one of the parasitic connections in the 12 tuber.
Waiting for the Bulk order to arrive. Other kits.
Maybe upgrade with the various RF chokes. If the RF chokes are still RED not black.
They R still Good.
Dc blocking caps might be issues after 55 + years. It was in that 24LQ6 Phantom 500.
Give me a few days to pull mine out. Check the value of parts in it. Re-cap. & fire it up !
Check the tubes. Yup 8950's. Hmm maybe I stuck M-2057's in it ?
In this forum. Go to...
How to tune a tube amp.
