I have the terminals of the original two cans completely disconnected electrically.
Falcon,
The hum doesn't necessarily go away when I turn up the volume, it just is easily drowned out. If you only turn the volume up so far (hearing static & other transmissions) you can still hear it behind the RX, just not overpowering.
Does it mean anything that the hum goes quiet when the squelch is turned up or the rf gain is turned down?
Like I said, I reinstalled the replacement capacitors 3 or so times to make sure I didn't have a cold solder joint, bad connection, etc. I had to extend a negative lead of one replacement capacitor & a positive lead coming from the radio on another replacement capacitor so I could place the capacitors neatly under the radio, otherwise, that's the only difference from stock.
I'm using mostly tested tubes. I think the only tube I'm using that I didn't have tested is V13. The tube in V13 was cracked when I got this radio so I put one that I had sitting around in there.
I found an electronics store today that's near my office that has a huge old drug store type tube tester in their lobby (owner says recently calibrated, they sell components and NOS tubes that apparently you can use for free.
I'm going to take all of my tubes for this radio up there tomorrow and test them out. It looked like The meter/controls of the thing only had two basic tests, shorts & strength. I know most of my tubes are probably not shorted because everything works, volume, squelch, tx/rx on frequency, etc.
Would a tester like I'm describing also rule out grid leakage? Or would it specifically have to have a function/knob for that test?
Thanks a ton for the replies. I'm going to figure this out!
