..using a GREAT little "free-ware" program called "TinyCad" (produced by "SourceForge") and can be downloaded here:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/tinycad
TinyCAD
Brought to you by: beischer, don_lucas, mattpyne, mlangezaal {These guys helped produce TinyCAD}
Radioman, not to be rude but Sourceforge is simply the hosting service/software repository; it's the one all of us so called "software jockeys" used before Github came onto the scene.
I think the main point is that if it fails it will always result in an open circuit unlike others which usually result in a short circuit sending battery voltage directly to the finals causing them to detonate. There's much to be said for preventing catastrophic failure from ever occurring to begin with. Burned traces suck.
What??? battery voltage causing them to detonate, so you mean like supply voltage to the collectors of the driver/final? BWAHAHA take a meter and measure the collector voltage in your radio, I eagerly await your results... (should be about 6 Volts on a whim, this voltage is adjusted when setting carrier level)
EDIT: Thanks Blasphemy, yes measure it in SSB and you'll really flip your shit, OH NOOO battery voltage,
dreaded battery voltage to my driver and final nooooooo it can't be!
Here is a tip look at the schematic above and connect the dots.
You may have to google "how to read the schematic symbol for BJT", but that's OKAY, baby steps young "teacher".
I have supplied the Collectors in a radio's P.A. with 24 Volts, the D.C. present doesn't mean anything is going to "detonate" as you say, far from it in reality.
Hell, I fed a nasty & unfiltered 24 Volts from a cheap Chinese LED driver power supply to the Drain of my precious FQP13N10 MosFet, and guess what happened?!
The P.A. amplified the noise/ripple from the power supply causing some gnarly oscillation and showing some 50 Watts "CW" on a Bird 43, it got extremely hot, but it didn't "detonate" as you say, after everything cooled off and was "put back to normal" the part continued to perform as it should.
What I usually observe when a regulator fails.. (Cobra 148 style rig) high carrier & extremely low or no modulation... certainly not "detonation"!
If you understand how the radio's power amplifier stage works you'd be able to see how foolish (inexact) your statement is.
I don't own, purchase, or sell "Stryker" radios so perhaps I've overlooked an inherent design flaw (they use PNP Darlington instead of NPN) that would cause a simple fuse "to be of no use" in preventing catastrophic failure. Now if the improper rating was used or the fuse bypassed (like hack shops in the desert sometimes do) then surely traces can burn depending upon the fault.
Suggesting people use the correct fuse isn't going to sell additional parts + service, now is it?
This drama is simply a way to create artificial demand for a product no one
really needs.
Another marketing tactic, like how the ERF-2030+ is supposedly a superior part, while all of my personal testing has demonstrated the FQP13N10 consistently provides better performance.
Have YOU done any testing for YOURSELF yet, or are you always just going to be riding someone's coattail and simply parroting a narrative?
My suggestion: don't have faith in manipulative demonstrations on YouTube, it is easy to be fooled by the one you assume is always correct.
~Cheers~
