• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
  • The Retevis Holidays giveaway winner has been selected! Check Here to see who won!

PDC-1

SmackDown

Active Member
Anyone familiar with this circuit ? I've read it converts an average meter into a peak reading meter ala the Nye Viking and some Birds. I've seen some Dosy's with a peak switch but I know an active (powered) circuit is needed to correctly read peaks. Anyone know anything at all about this PDC-1 circuit?
Secondly...Does this circuit work in digital meters ???

http://home.att.net/~hi-res/html/pdc-1.html


73's..., I'm on da mail....
 

SmackDown said:
Secondly...Does this circuit work in digital meters ???

http://home.att.net/~hi-res/html/pdc-1.html


73's..., I'm on da mail....
it states,
FOR ANALOG WATTMETERS IS HERE! not digital!!!
Nope...not to say true readings on a digital RMS run are delayed as it is!
So trying to do peek with speed and +-5% Accurate readings is even more delayed, if a true reading can be captured! Meaning if it alters a bit + or - in wattage the meter will lock up or show a false reading!
 
They seem to be tossing the terms "peak" and "PEP" around as if they're the same thing.

They're not.

This toy might provide a quasi-PEP reading (use it at your own risk). Or, you could get an MFJ that reads average and PEP, selectable at the push of a button.

A true peak-reading meter such as the Bird 43P requires a DC supply for the circuitry involved. Bird uses (or used to use) two 9-volt batteries that required replacement every half hour or so. :o
 
Beetle said:
They seem to be tossing the terms "peak" and "PEP" around as if they're the same thing.

They're not.

This toy might provide a quasi-PEP reading (use it at your own risk). Or, you could get an MFJ that reads average and PEP, selectable at the push of a button.

/quote]
Your right..I don't think it is worth messing up a meter trying this!
Unless you have extras laying around and one to calibrate the modded one, to see if it is +-3% off!
 
I just left the MFJ website and they're good looking meters but I bought up the PDC-1 circuit because it's supposed to enable analog (thanks for correcting me) meters to make more accurate peak readings. I see the MFJ has a 12v input but the literature says for the back lighting. But I've seen Nye Vikings that have a power input and the literature said for powering the active circuit for peak readings, then goes on to say for lighting also. Even Dosy's have a peak switch on their front panel but I don't believe they give good peak measurements. The MFJ is reasonably priced as meters go but does it have an active circuit built into it that gives accurate peak (or pep if you prefer) measurements?

Stop the presses...I went back to the PDC-1 page and see it says this circuit is installed in MFJ and Nye-Viking and Drake meters and others. I think I'll get the circuit anyway it's not expensive, and pick up something on ebay and trick it out.. I'll also call MFJ and verify if they use an active circuit...
Thanks for the input.

73's
 
Caveat Emptor.

Just like when buying a new car, one needs to become familiar with the various terms and advertising claims to avoid being stung.

"Peak" and "PEP" are two entirely different things, but advertising folks frequently use them interchangeably. Most any analog meter (and I'm just discussing analog meters in this post) can be calibrated and adjusted for PEP reading and for average power reading (sometimes imprecisely called "RMS"). Many inexpensive and up through mid-grade meters can read either of these values, selectable with a switch.

As you've noted, for "PEAK" power measurements, the instrument needs an "active" circuit to calculate the actual peak value of the power waveform and hold it long enough for the meter movement to be able to respond. MFJ meters do have external power provisions, but these are mostly for running the lights, as you mentioned. MFJs website has all the manuals for current models, and some older models as well. It would pay to take a look at the manual if you're interested in a particular one, to see just what type of circuitry it contains.
 
i got a pdc-1 kit a while back just to see how it worked,
seems to work like any active sample/hold pep reading board including birds own pep reading board and this one,

http://www.lnatechnology.com/lnatech_044.htm

the bird unit may be less prone to rf interference when the line section is removed from the case, it also uses dual rail power supply that eats batteries for fun,
i know people have had problems with the inatech board that the bird man sells as an aftermarket option to the expensive bird unit if you remote the line section,
i told a friend to try .001,.01,.1 caps in parallel across the line section connections to the board after he already tried ferrites on the line section cable to no avail,
he did and says it works fine now,

if you buy the pdc-1 it comes with components for a 30ua meter movement as in the bird 43,
i have seen on eham that the resistors shipped with the board are not correct for the 30ua movement due to a wrong calculation by the manufacturer but maybe they sorted that out by now,
the instructions say it will work reasonably with other movements as supplied but if you want the stated accuracy you must know the fullscale ua of your movement and do a calculation to figure out what value is needed for 2 resistors in the circuit,
then calibrate the presets as per instructions,

once done you have something much better than any mickeymouse none active pep meter imho but dont expect super accurate readings, they are only as accurate as the meters basic accuracy and peak board accuracy or inaccuracy combined,
how accurate can an analogue meter really be.
 
Can they be used in 'digital' meters? Not as supplied. Can you 'convert' them for use in a 'digital' meter? Sure, if you want to go to the trouble of doing so. How do you do that? Just like 'Bob' said, do some re-figuring of the max uA of the digital meter, calculate the required size of the resistors. Is this something that the 'average' person can do at home? I sort of doubt it. How accurate will the modified thingy and digital meter be? That sort of depends on what you use for a reference. (If you have the required equipment to start with, why would you even care about it?) On the 'average', the accuracy will be 'typical' of the amount of care and work put into the project. Which means, on the 'average', about the same as converting readings with a pencil.
Highly accurate analog measuring devices are accurate to about +/- 5%. The 'typical', commercially available measuring devices have a higher 'spread' than that. If you are within about 10%, you can say your device is as accurate as anyone else's. Except in very few cases, accuracy above 10% is just not a requirement.
- 'Doc
 
Thanks for all the great input. I did see in the Nye Viking that along with the wall wart power supply there's battery back-up.
I own a Rat Shack digital meter but I'm going to buy the PDC-1 and pick up an analog meter on an auction site and tinker. Maybe a Dosy 4001 or something esthetically similar.

73's
 

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.