PHANTOM AMP DRAW?

[Sonar]

I've a 9 tube PDX style Phantom. I say 9 tube because it has 9 6LQ6's and 1 small (forgot what it's for) tube.
I recall many owners of the nine 6LQ6 referring to their Phantoms as a 10 tube amplifier even though that tenth tube is not a driver or has anything to do with the output of the amplifier..
My phantom like all other Phantoms runs on 110.
Can someone tell me how many amps it draws from my homes electrical outlet?

 

[Dmans]

Sonar,
I'm no expert on these but I believe this is a 1 tube (6JG6) driving 3 (6LQ6) driving 6 (6LQ6). The tube with no plate cap is the first driver tube. Some of the older Phantoms were vacuum tube keyed and used a 6BQ5 (I believe) instead of a transistor keying circuit.
An approximate indication of the 110 volt amp draw can be made by looking at the size of the fuse. A more positive measurement can/should be made using an amp meter on one leg of the 110 volt input with full modulated drive.

73's
David

P.S.
Nice clean PDX!

 

[Sonar]

Sonar,
I'm no expert on these but I believe this is a 1 tube (6JG6) driving 3 (6LQ6) driving 6 (6LQ6). The tube with no plate cap is the first driver tube. Some of the older Phantoms were vacuum tube keyed and used a 6BQ5 (I believe) instead of a transistor keying circuit.
An approximate indication of the 110 volt amp draw can be made by looking at the size of the fuse. A more positive measurement can/should be made using an amp meter on one leg of the 110 volt input with full modulated drive.

73's
David

P.S.
Nice clean PDX!

You're correct. That tube is indeed a 6JG6.
I've gotten sevral different answers as to whether the 6JG6 in my Phantom is a driver or is there for another reason. That was in a past post that i asked specifically about the 6JG6 in my Phantom and what it does. I could go back into all of my previous posts in order to find out what nomad and others very familiar with the Phantom said about the 6JG6 in my particular Phantom.
I'm fairly sure his consensus was that it wasn't a driver and had served a different purpose in my particular phantom.
Unfortunately I do not own an amp meter. And the amp is currently boxed up and getting ready for shipping to my tech.
Unfortunately the phantom developed an issue that needs attention. So removing the fuse isn't possible at this time. I will have my tech check out the amp draw.
I'm considering purchasing that 10 tube golden falcon currently available on eBay. The falcon runs runs on 110 and draws 15 amps (according to the seller.)
I'm assuming my Phantom draws at least 15 amps. My homes electrical system (outlets) should have no issues running the goldern falcon (I'm considering buying.) In all honesty I'm not going to find out what my phantom.draws before the golden falcons auction ends. I've always wanted a golden falcon. I'm going to assume my homes electrical system actually can draw 15 amps (or more) if needed. I hope more people weigh in. I hope that nomad is one of them and I hope that he addresses both the amperage and straightens out the issue on what the 6JG6's job is in my particular phantom is there for. I'm sure nomad can answer both questions. I'm positive others know the answers also. Thank for replying. 73's

 

[Dmans]

73's
David

 

[Sonar]

Sonar,
I'm no expert on these but I believe this is a 1 tube (6JG6) driving 3 (6LQ6) driving 6 (6LQ6). The tube with no plate cap is the first driver tube. Some of the older Phantoms were vacuum tube keyed and used a 6BQ5 (I believe) instead of a transistor keying circuit.
An approximate indication of the 110 volt amp draw can be made by looking at the size of the fuse. A more positive measurement can/should be made using an amp meter on one leg of the 110 volt input with full modulated drive.

73's
David

P.S.
Nice clean PDX!

Thanks for the compliment David.
I don't think it makes a big difference if any at all but it's not a PDX.
I wrote PDX type/style so that thosei in the know would understand that I was referring to the brown colored d&a phantom as opposed to the older battleship grey models.
I could be wrong but I think this (my) triple stage Phantom came before the PDX labled d&a amps.
As you can see in the picture it's labeled Phantom Triple Stage (not PDX.). I've learned to be as specific as one could be when describing a piece of equipment that you're looking for information on. As I mentioned above. I don't think there's any difference between this earlier Phantom triple stage and the PDX that has the same nine 6LQ6 one 6JG6 tube configuration. But I don't know that for sure. I do know there are people out there that have knowledge to that information. I've seen d&a PDX amps iwth the same tube configuration as the triple stage Phantom. Nine 6LQ6's and one 6JG6.
I'm not 100% sure but I do think d&a used nine 6LQ6's with a single 6JG6 where the 6JG6 did something different in one amplifier with the same tube configuration then it did in another Phantoms or PDX labeled amplifier.

 

[nomadradio]

Yes, it makes a difference.

The PDX was Ed Dulaney's response to the FCC's tightened linear rules of 1979. The ham-band switch he built into the gray-case models would no longer get him around the new rules. You'll notice a crystal socket on the front panel. There's a jack for a morse-code key. Should say "20-meter CW transmitter" on the front, as well.

Later ones did, anyway.

The four-tube driver stage of the previous Phantom model became a 3-tube driver, with one empty socket hole. A socket for a baldy tube was punched off to the side of the drivers. This was wired as a crystal oscillator, connected to that crystal socket and morse-code key jack on the front panel.

Later versions of the PDX had a different punch pattern in the chassis deck, with only three holes for the driver sockets.

Instructions to hook up a keying circuit, and bypass the crystal oscillator would arrive in the mail a day or two after your "CW transmitter". We converted more than a few of these back into linears at the time. The sideband switch would go in the hole where the key jack had been.

The baldy tube is needed to balance the 12.6-Volt heater supply. D&A wired pairs of 6.3-Volt tube heaters in series. Can't do that with an odd number of tubes. Pull out the baldy and the heater in one of the three driver tubes goes dark.

We tried eliminating the baldy tube by using a resistor in its place. Never would work. Either the third driver tube would run hotter than the other two, or the other two would run too hot. Could never make the three of them balance without the baldy's heater in the circuit.

The Maverick got the same treatment and became the "MDX" model in a brown cabinet.

It appears the name got changed after he worked out the design changes. Don't think too many of these were sold with the Phantom name on them.

RIP Ed Dulaney. Gotta give him credit for trying.

73