Probably nothing but...

[The Jerk]

I have a clean PC76 running into a 5-pill FatBoy (all 2879s, bought new). I'm running RG-8 coax, 4ga leads, and a 102-inch that's well grounded to the body. I've got a 160A alternator and twin batteries. This is all in a 3rd gen Dodge with a Cummins.

This started recently:

• I am seeing more things light up in the truck than before...it affected some things, but it is more pronounced now and affecting others. Before things might flicker under modulation, now things just come one with dead key.

• I am seeing less swing...cheap meter, but dead keying between 125 and 150 gave me 750 to 800 swing. Now I'm seeing 600 to 650 watts.

Nothing has been changed, SWR is still less than 1.1:1 barefoot and about 1.8:1 powered. Still getting good reports.

The first thing I thought was the power leads on the amp, but I cleaned them at the battery...no change. I then checked all the connections on the coax, and took the 102 down and made sure there was no corrosion anywhere...no change.

The only variable that has changed is the fact its gotten cold(er)...and I'm pushing more volts because of that. I was seeing between 14.2 and 14.4 this summer, and now I'm seeing between 14.6 and 14.9...this is very normal on this truck. But I would expect power to go up, not down...or am I thinking wrong?

Anything pop out, or should I consider this normal?

 

[GnG8d]

I ran a 5 pill XForce in one of my 3rd gen Dodges for several years with absolutely no side effects. The only time I had problems was when I ran a box, Quad, Edge and SP would all allow RF in them and make the engine stumble.

A couple things do come to mind though. Unless you've upgraded your alternator, it should be 136 amp I think, not 160 amp. Have your batteries load tested, one at a time of course, batteries in parallel can act goofy sometimes. And, upgrade (or at least inspect) the wire coming from your alternator to your passenger side battery.

 

[The Jerk]

I ran a 5 pill XForce in one of my 3rd gen Dodges for several years with absolutely no side effects. The only time I had problems was when I ran a box, Quad, Edge and SP would all allow RF in them and make the engine stumble.

A couple things do come to mind though. Unless you've upgraded your alternator, it should be 136 amp I think, not 160 amp. Have your batteries load tested, one at a time of course, batteries in parallel can act goofy sometimes. And, upgrade (or at least inspect) the wire coming from your alternator to your passenger side battery.

I'm running a programmer (Smarty JR) and have an Edge Insight, but they were installed well before this started happening. I have had no issue with the Edge Insight.

The alternator is upgraded, it is 160A. Batteries are good and the lead from the alternator was upgraded. I also see very little voltage drop when keyed.

 

[pro151]

This could be a grounding issue as well. RF leak to the frame?

 

[The Jerk]

Whatever it is, it is temperature dependent...it got up tp 70 degrees today and it reacted absolutely normal. I can only guess the cold is causing resistance somewhere?

 

[GnG8d]

Grid heater?

 

[9C1Driver]

Hmmm yea double check your grounds and you might replace the jumper.

 

[The Jerk]

The grid heaters have quit cycling when I'm checking...I can see them cycling on my (aftermarket) volt meter so I know when they've finished. I'm also above 25mph (they shut off any speed over 25mph).

The jumper (actually all the coax) is less than a year old...and it is RG8, not mini8. Would you expect it to fail that soon in semi-protected conditions? This was actually the first thing that came to mind, but SWR didn't change and the age of the cable...I can't believe it would have failed this early on?

 

[mackmobile43]

take the meter out of line and see what happens.

 

[The Jerk]

Take it out and replace it with another meter?

 

[mackmobile43]

Take it out and replace it with another meter?

Just trying to eliminate the possibility the meter has a fault so just pull the meter and connect directly radio to the amp and see if the problem remains.

 

[The Jerk]

OK, I was thinking of how I could see difference in the meter to verify a change; but the lights and aftermarket gauges should also be an indicator. Had meter on the brain, and wasn't thinking of my other "issues".

I will try that tonight...