Putting on PL259 Ends on LMR400

[Galaxy 959]

https://www.rfparts.com/lmr400.html

Does anyone know if this RF Parts company is good at installing the PL259 ends? They said for $74 plus shipping I can get 55' of LMR400 with amphenol ends on it. Plus shipping.

 

[Mudfoot]

I always install myself.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I always install myself.

Me too. Been doing it since I was 14. That would make it 38 years now. It is the most basic thing to do and comes in REAL handy when you have a faulty cable or simply need a new jumper made up. I have seen how some shops install connectors and I would never want them installing them for me. Some are OK but others are not. RF Parts is a decent company and I would expect them to be better than Billy-Bobs CB and Bait Shop but who knows?

 

[543_Dallas]

I put them on myself but if you have any doubts about your ability or don't have a big enough iron I'm sure they will do a fine job. I prefer to use a mini torch but it takes practice.

If you want to save some money check out these people. The center conductor of their lmr400 equivalent is copper plated aluminum vs the solid aluminum in the times microwave lmr400 and is about half the price. I have been using this for years with no issues. Reviews on eham are all positive as well.

http://www.jefatech.com/category/d100

 

[Beetle]

I put them on myself


Geez, I bet that hurts! Why not put them on the coax? (The connectors, not the "ends".

 

[Galaxy 959]

I've been doing it myself but may not be the proper way. I strip it back and pull the shield back over the cover and screw it on. Then just solder the center pin. But sometimes I get it to hot and have to redo it. I just have a cheap 30 watt iron.

 

[543_Dallas]

The 30 watt iron won't do it fast enough. It helps if you tin the shield first. Sometimes I have to use a dremel to smooth it up a bit after tinning so the pl259 will screw on.

While your soldering lay the coax straight with the pl259 slightly elevated so solder won't run down in the connector if you use too much solder. Then leave it laying there until cool. The insulation around the center conductor might be soft and you don't want the center conductor to move off center or short against the shield.

 

[Beetle]

I just have a cheap 30 watt iron.

And THERE'S the problem.

 

[Road Squawker]

And THERE'S the problem.

Well,....... just how much should he pay for a cheap soldering iron?




....Yeah,... I've been watchin (and doing pretty good at) IDIOTEST on TV

 

[Robb]

When doing coax connectors, I use a 180w soldering gun. Have to be careful; but it works real fast and does a fine job. Otherwise, a small soldering iron will have much of the heat drawn away when you solder the shield to the connector body. Acts like a heat sink . . .

 

[Galaxy 959]

Does anyone have any detailed pics doing this? I've never soldered the ground. I just fold it back on the black rubber and screw on the PL259. Then solder the center pin only. So I should get a 180w gun to put these on with?

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I use a 325 watt gun with a BIG tip. I also have an 80 watt iron used for making stained glass window panels but I usually use the big gun since I know where it is and it heats faster. This reminds me that I need to get more tips for it.

 

[Beetle]

I use a 325 watt gun with a BIG tip. I also have an 80 watt iron used for making stained glass window panels but I usually use the big gun since I know where it is and it heats faster. This reminds me that I need to get more tips for it.

Lowe's sells the 80 watt stained glass model with the other soldering stuff. The tip that comes with it is excellent for PL-259s.

Remember, it takes longer to warm up AND to cool down.

 

[fourstringburn]

You could try do what I do and use quality solder/crimp pl-259's if you plan on making more coax cables yourself in the future. Stay away from the older style crimp/crimp type which crimped the center conductor instead of soldering it.

These save time and are much easier. But...they require the proper tools to be done correctly. Rf parts and DX engineering sell the ratcheting coax crimpers and dies for all types coax connectors. However, RF parts only sells the junk crimp PL-259's but the good ones like in the first pic can be found elsewhere online like Ebay.

Use quality silver teflon connectors that have a large opening for the pre-tinned center conductor and use ratcheting crimpers especially made for these connectors with the proper die and it will crimp the coax shield on to the connector so tight you can practically hang from it. ( At least with larger size coax like you will be using.)

Use the larger hole style in this first pic not the pin hole style in the 2nd pic.

Before any backslash starts from using solder/crimp connectors, you should take notice of most of the quality coax cables sold by ABR cables and DX engineering for example, They use solder crimp and work very well and I have used them and have been very reliable on larger cables such as RG-8 and RG213 as well as LMR 400.

Also for the nay-sayers out there, do you see industrial coax and other cables used like for cell towers being hand soldered in the field? no, it is mostly done with crimp type connectors with the proper tools. There is nothing wrong with crimp connectors on the coax shield as long as the center pin is still soldered on just like the old fashioned type.

Key words, proper tools and connectors.

Here is a video link showing how to make solder/crimp connectors.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...D8746E3CC413F0B27818D8746E3CC413F&FORM=VRDGAR

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I have been thinking about switching to crimp on connectors myself actually but I would still solder the center pin for any outdoor uses.