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RadioShack TRC 503 master mod thread

Uncle Ronnie 336

Well-Known Member
Apr 28, 2020
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I know what you are thinking... "Why do anything to this radio other than replace it? This uncle Ronnie guy.is retarded"

Grab the short bus and make sure my window is clean because I'm about to lick it.

Let's start with the limiter:
replace r67 with 10m to crack open the threshold more

Replace c60 with 4.7uf for a faster limiter release

Working on an irf 520 mosfet upgrade next. No one's making money off of this radio so we might as well give everyone a reason to mess around with it.

To be continued
 

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Rather than replacing an SMD part with a discrete one like that, and changing the cap to a lower value, how about putting a 1K-2.2K resistor (discrete is fine) in parallel with the "Sample and Hold" capacitor in the limiter circuit, usually the largest capacitor in the limiter circuit? It will still charge up at the same instantaneous rate, and it will "bleed" off the stored voltage of the "sample and Hold" cap a lot faster.

This is from a Cobra 29LX-LE schematic for example.

C29 AMC Sample and Hold mod.jpg
 
The electrolytics in this are all through hole. I just didn't have smt resistors, and I am doing this more for the guy who will slap a bunch of regular parts in there because you would be lucky to get $5 for this at a tag sale in the first place.
 
Okay cool I'll give that a whirl and see what happens.

As promised I am back now with some more info on a mosfet conversion. There's something acting funky and a few things getting hot along the way, more on that in a second. This is what I came up with for a mosfet conversion thus far. These aren't the final numbers and they could change moving forward.

Remove: c105, r113, r112, L9 and the 470 ohm that is parallel to the RF choke feeding the drain of the mosfet

Replace:
L8 4.5t close wound on a slug Tower from a parts pig

L10 4.5T more spread out on a slug Tower from a parts pig

C107 4700pf bypass cap
C103 390pf
C104 220pf
C108 300pf

Companion part consists of 470 ohm inline with 4148 diode and landed on 2.7k ohm for the ground to gate shunt similar to the en1230 companion part (which uses 3.3k)

Now the fun stuff.. I get a squeal anytime I set the dead key above three Watts, and it gets more pronounced the more I get long keyed. Transformer itself gets really hot after a while. I think the mosfet is pulling a little too much juice for the transformer to handle. I don't think it was made to handle anything above the 10w pep it came stock putting out. Everything sounds the best (least worst) when I have the carrier set around 3 and swinging up to around 25pep before everything heats up. I think there's a couple different ways I could attack this,

one of them being take the final + feed rfc off of the modulated line downstream from the audio transformer and simply attach it to the main 13.8 volt line. The modulation can be handled all by the driver, with the final mosfet setup like a linear, possibly even supplying it with some bias voltage

Another option would be to lose the transformer and go with a big Darlington regulator.

I guess I could parts pig a transformer from another radio but.... There's the chance I would have the same results as I'm currently getting with the overheating and squeal
 
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Another thing I might know is the RF choke going from the modulated rail to the driver is very flimsy and cheap so that's also about to get changed out. But I'm thinking over all it's the transformer that's the main limiting factor here so if anyone wants to chime in on the subject of maybe losing that and getting a big Darlington on a chunk of metal, I'm into hearing your thoughts. I'm willing to make this experiment take a drastic turn for the weird for everyone's entertainment.
 
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Welp, I tried connecting the final to the main line and could not get it to tune up. Something made a little crinkle sound inside and I don't know what it was and now my positive and negative are shorted together even though I have already removed my blown mosfet. There is no big protection diode on the input of this radio either so I believe that's about the end of this experiment on my end of things if I can't get the radio to even turn on again
 
There is no AM regulator in this radio, it is transformer fed like a Cobra 25 or 29. Are you sure there isn't a reverse polarity diode back by the power input wires? Does it pop the fuse when the main power switch is off? Having a resetable circuit breaker in these cases comes in handy, or a switching mode power supply that shuts itself off in short circuit conditions. You might have melted the windings of the transformer, if it "pops" when you turn the power on.

I saw on eBay a few of these radios going for about $25 each.
 
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