Back in the day of when I was tweaking and cleaning up radios - one of the many things I used to see was improperly set MOSFET bias.
That high SWR, right there - is an indication of the MOSFET in with either the Driver, Final or both - are set too high and sending down the strip, everything - and putting it into that amp board.
The quickest way to fry those piggy boards was to try and raise power for swing to levels they want to see - by adjusting the Bias of the output of the Radio - into that amp.
You can tell that by just running the radio on your 40~50 amp power supply and look at the amount of current it was taking in. Turn on the amp and see 50% increase - well, to some they think it's fine, to others, no - more like 25% amperage increase makes better sense than to set the amp to Dead key what you think (by your meter not the ones they made the claims on. So if your meter seems stingy - the results of this test is on you) the wattage should be.
Put your hand on it and see if you wind up with Grill marks...if you feel it's getting hot, then you've got a problem further up the amps' chain, being the very top of what this post is about. Turn down the bias so they (your MOSFET's) don't stay on so long they spit out harmonics and throw it at the amp's input.
The amp is not filtered guys, the filtering for much of that output is in the Radios' strip on the radio board - ok?
High SWR on that radio - when all the other indications from all your other more-trusted equipment shows good, then the Canary in the Coal mine is trapped in the amps own mess at the radio - trust your instincts on this. If all other radios work on this system, then the new piece is the POS - fix it.
This is coming from a guy that had to replace, resoldered and reset a lot of Galaxy MOSFET radios just because of the Black n Decker Golden Powered High-Torque Miracle Mayhem tool they called a battery-powered screwdriver with interchangeable bits...