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RF Induction Radiator

paws264

Active Member
Apr 6, 2005
646
14
28
amp-4.jpg
 

But is'nt an amatuer amplifier required to be keyed with no less that 100 watts? or is it 50, Me thinks so.
Not if it is Homebrew, to be used or sold by a Ham to a Ham.......Not more than 1 unit per year......That only applies to an amp that has to have FCC approval to be sold in Mass on the Market.

The proscription in paragraph (b)
of this section shall not apply to the
marketing, as defined in paragraph (b)
of this section, by a licensed amateur
radio operator to another licensed
amateur radio operator of an external
radio frequency power amplifier fabricated
in not more than one unit of
the same model in a calendar year by
that operator provided the amplifier is
for the amateur operator’s personal use
at his licensed amateur radio station
and the requirements of §§ 97.315 and
97.317 of this chapter are met.
(e) The proscription in paragraph (c)
of this section shall not apply in the
marketing, as defined in paragraph (c)
of this section, by a licensed amateur
radio operator to another licensed
amateur radio operator of an external
radio frequency power amplifier if the
amplifier is for the amateur operator’s
personal use at his licensed amateur
radio station and the requirements of
§§ 97.315 and 97.317 of this chapter are
met.


73
Jeff
 
I talked to a couple of guys who have been around the block a couple of times who suggested that I use seperate bias and filamement for each tube so, I chopped out what I have done, did a re-work on component placement.

To compersate for the possibilities that the individual tubes may not perform equally, I supplied each tube with it's own filament supply, Tri-filar choke, seperate bias and metering.


BEFORE

amp1.jpg


AFTER

DCP00337.jpg
 
The B+ (High Voltage) input and the meter multiplier resistors.

DCP00356.jpg


Another angle showing Glitch resistor and "High Voltage" fuse (3 strands of wire; "extra" fuse wire wrapped around B+ feed line.

DCP00357.jpg
 
Picture of the underside showing the Zener diode board and old Bi-Filar chokes

DCP00338.jpg


Picture of underside with new Tri-Filar chokes. Green wire are the CT connected to the bias circuit. Blue wires from relay go to B- point.

DCP00359.jpg
 
When you start a project you should have have it laid out before you start; when you change things in mid-stream then you end up squeezing components into places you did not plan for them go.

Also, if you have to seal the box to make it air tight, do it before you install your components.
:oops:
 
All left to do in the bottom is wire management with wire ties.

DCP00360a.jpg


This is the circuit being used, I have not settled on the placement of the Grid metering circuits nor have I installed the other meter movements on the front panel or, installed the top, bottom, and sides.

GS-35b-1.jpg
 
karo said:
paws264 said:
Actually, it came from Steptoe and Son.

Well that's some quality permatex you're using there.

I shoulda used a clear Silicone to seal the seams, I am probably gonna scrape the Blue Goo off and use something different.

BTW, the bottom looked "beautiful" until I had to re-arrange and shoe horn stuff where it was not planned to go; now it looks less than "beautiful".

.
 
datsun66 said:
How much are you going to put on the plate and how much mil amps?

My "test" HV supply will do 4500v at 500 mills all day; when I had just the one tube amp, with 65 watts drive, the tube pulled around 1 amp and my power supply dropped down to 3500 volts in AM service. In SSB I had no problem seeing a 3000 watt swing.

The two-tube version is functional but, I do not have the B+ supply (3000+ volts at 2 amps) to run it. The only hold up is that I need to put dual grid current meters (one for each tube) so that I can monitor the loading of the tubes.

.
 

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